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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-16-2012, 12:18 PM   #3421
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
And FYI, #55s are actually 1.32. So 1.3s are actually a tiny bit smaller. And I have a pretty steady hand, but couldn't trust myself to drill all the holes identically in size and proximity on a set of blanks. The Gheas are machined and are flawless, which is why I went that way. The taper is also a neat feature.
Well the trick is to use a hand drill and dont force anything. Its not terribly hard. People get into trouble trying to force the thing through.
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:39 PM   #3422
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Thanks guys for the shock piston suggestions. I'll have a look around and see what I can find.
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:59 PM   #3423
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Side note, anyone else have issues with Kyosho outdrives? Mine chipped, and I have the other side wearing as well. Anything I can do to make this stop? It has happened on all of my cars.
Somebody suggested a little grease and some Durango boots. Has anybody actually tried this?
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:51 PM   #3424
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It seems my RB6 spins out a little too easy when coming out of a tight corner and putting on the power. I'm running a shorty pack all the way forward - to the servo. I'm wondering if I should loosen or tighten the diff a little or move the battery back some to plant the rear end more. I don't want to give up much steering though ... Thanks
Is there some other thread I should have asked this question in?
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:05 PM   #3425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
And FYI, #55s are actually 1.32. So 1.3s are actually a tiny bit smaller. And I have a pretty steady hand, but couldn't trust myself to drill all the holes identically in size and proximity on a set of blanks. The Gheas are machined and are flawless, which is why I went that way. The taper is also a neat feature.
GMK Hole Thing sold at amain is what I use to hand drill pistons. Works like a charm...
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:07 PM   #3426
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Is there some other thread I should have asked this question in?
sounds like a good start, maybe even try .5 degree hubs
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:30 PM   #3427
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Try moving the pack back and/or going +4 caster inerts
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:36 PM   #3428
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Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
Is there some other thread I should have asked this question in?
Not having the rest of your setup, I would say running your battery that far up is adding a lot of front weight and not enough rear weight.
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:40 PM   #3429
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Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
Is there some other thread I should have asked this question in?
Hey Chad, in my opinion it's not easy answering setup questions unless you're actually at the track with the person. For starters the obvious change to make is to move the battery back. I run mine all the way back but that's my track. A description of what kind of surface you are running on, tires you're running, what setup you have on the car now are all necessary to give you a decent answer. For now, with only the information you provided my answer is to move the battery back.

I apologize if I missed a post where you provided details.
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:42 PM   #3430
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Thanks for the help guys. I was too vague. Details are clay indoor track. Super soft rebars front and rear. Pink front gold rear springs. 0 castor inserts. All else is stock.
Now if a diff is too tight, both wheels will break loose together. If the diff is loose, the outside wheel will spin too easily??
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:23 PM   #3431
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which rear hub carriers are stock .5 or 0 or 1 ? I was thinking about getting the metal ones
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:25 PM   #3432
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Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
Thanks for the help guys. I was too vague. Details are clay indoor track. Super soft rebars front and rear. Pink front gold rear springs. 0 castor inserts. All else is stock.
Now if a diff is too tight, both wheels will break loose together. If the diff is loose, the outside wheel will spin too easily??
I would not focus on the diff at all. Get it tight enough so that is smooth but does not slip ever. Also is your slipper to tight?

Tires are almost everything in offroad. Are the tires you are running what all the fast guys are running? Are the fronts giving you too much steering into a corner as well? You can spend all day trying another shim here 1 less there, more camber or less camber, different hubs, etc. If your tires are not hooked up you well never be as fast as someone that is.

On an indoor clay track I would think you would be running worn in gold barcodes or maybe blue, MC Suburbs, pink BK bars, or any of the bar type tires in indoor soft or clay compounds. I use super soft Rebars on outdoor dusty tracks. Not to say they wont work but just consider options. The front Rebars may be to aggressive as well.

Just my .02
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:44 PM   #3433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evolution03 View Post
which rear hub carriers are stock .5 or 0 or 1 ? I was thinking about getting the metal ones

Stock is 0.
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:52 PM   #3434
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some pics of the wiring hate yellow wheels and body isnt painted yet
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-photo_1-1.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-photo_2-1.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-photo_3-1.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-photo_4-1.jpg  
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:53 PM   #3435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
Thanks for the help guys. I was too vague. Details are clay indoor track. Super soft rebars front and rear. Pink front gold rear springs. 0 castor inserts. All else is stock.
Now if a diff is too tight, both wheels will break loose together. If the diff is loose, the outside wheel will spin too easily??
Rebars need to be pretty worn as well before they actually hook up. Even on my track which isnt 100% clay we need to burn them in pretty good before they start to hook up. I run nearly bald front SS as well, or you get a wicked push loose condition.
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