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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-13-2012, 08:39 AM   #3331
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Sweet! Looks great mounted up!

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New JC body painted up by Aflac Designs

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Old 12-13-2012, 08:41 AM   #3332
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What shim is being used up front between the bulkhead and chassis? The .5 or ?
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:42 AM   #3333
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Trying my damnest to not use the laughing out loud icon .
I think the ROTFLMAO emoticon would be more appropriate. I can laugh about it now but it sure wasn't funny last night when I discovered my bone headed mistake. I sat there for awhile just looking at the pieces in disbelief. So you think I'll see a 'night a day' difference between running 0 degree rear toe vs 3 degree? Good times!!!
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:55 AM   #3334
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What shim is being used up front between the bulkhead and chassis? The .5 or ?
i think alot of guys are not using one at all.

i've seen a few setup sheets using the .5

i'd be interested in hearing what exactly the adjustment does.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:03 AM   #3335
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I was wondering what is a good starting point for a Tekin 9.5 with the stock spur?
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:08 AM   #3336
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Originally Posted by John.C View Post
So you think I'll see a 'night a day' difference between running 0 degree rear toe vs 3 degree? Good times!!!
I'm not sure, you may be the first guy to have done it! I can just see your expression on the driver stand now, the first day you drove the car....

"Man they weren't kidding.. this car is AGGRESSIVE!!!"
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:22 AM   #3337
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How are most people spacing the front hubs? Inside or outside? I have mine on the outside and it is overly agressive.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:48 AM   #3338
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How are most people spacing the front hubs? Inside or outside? I have mine on the outside and it is overly agressive.
You mean the caster blocks? If you run the hole towards the inside, it will push the caster bock outside (wider track). If you run the hole towards the outside, it will push the caster block inside (skinnier track). Skinnier track will provide more steering, wider track less. That setting alone will not by itself make the car noticeably aggressive.

I run a wide front track to help tame some of the steering (box setting).
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:03 AM   #3339
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I was wondering what is a good starting point for a Tekin 9.5 with the stock spur?
I have a buddy that just put one in and he is running 76/25 on a large indoor track but he was still testing. I would say start there and do the usuall temp after 2 minutes until you have it where you want it.
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:52 PM   #3340
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Originally Posted by What up? View Post
I have a buddy that just put one in and he is running 76/25 on a large indoor track but he was still testing. I would say start there and do the usuall temp after 2 minutes until you have it where you want it.
Thanks, I put a 23 on there and it was a turd. I hell the motor didn't even get warn.. and I didn't feel like going to buy a hand full of pinions to try..
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:21 PM   #3341
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Guys, i'm running full size lipos, with my ESC on top of the back battery holder. It's not the best place to put it since the wires touch the body, but i couldn't find any other place.

My question is: what's the difference in terms of feeling with the shorty or saddles instead of a full size batt? I know we get more steering with the batt forward mounted or the rear more planted with the batt mounted on the back, but aren't shorties and saddles a bit too light?

Cheers
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:08 PM   #3342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Energyzer View Post
Guys, i'm running full size lipos, with my ESC on top of the back battery holder. It's not the best place to put it since the wires touch the body, but i couldn't find any other place.

My question is: what's the difference in terms of feeling with the shorty or saddles instead of a full size batt? I know we get more steering with the batt forward mounted or the rear more planted with the batt mounted on the back, but aren't shorties and saddles a bit too light?

Cheers
I love my Shortys in the car feels very nimble, I run mine towards rear car feels so planted and in control. I already have enough steering for my driving. I run a Tekin rs so its mounted in the little hole by tranny reciver fits perfectly in between my servo and batt mount.
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:10 PM   #3343
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Im running kit recommend setting and kit springs whats a good suspension setup? Right now im running 35fr 30rr.
Should I get stiffer springs?
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:00 PM   #3344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
You mean the caster blocks? If you run the hole towards the inside, it will push the caster bock outside (wider track). If you run the hole towards the outside, it will push the caster block inside (skinnier track). Skinnier track will provide more steering, wider track less. That setting alone will not by itself make the car noticeably aggressive.

I run a wide front track to help tame some of the steering (box setting).
Yes, the Castor block is what I am referring to. At the moment I have the front end wide and it is really aggressive. A bit to much. The reason I ask is because I want to tame the steering down so it isn't overly twitchy, so I was thinking of shortening the width. In the past with the RB5 when I have gone to a wider front end, it made the steering more aggressive.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:45 PM   #3345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Don't move the arms forward 2mm, move them 1.5x mm forward. At 2mm, the arms actually hit the chassis. Just barely, but they do. I have arms shimmed forward 1.5mm, and my hubs in the middle, and the car was a LOT better. didn't lose any steering, but the rear end was just a hair more planted on landings and on-throttle.
Hmm I will have to check that out, is it hitting at the pivot?
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