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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-05-2012, 09:19 PM   #3151
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Has anyone tried running the narrow rear setup on medium bite? I keep breaking rf2s and the aluminum one is back ordered. Everyone local is having the same issue.
They had the alloy rf2 at speedtechrc. Priced lower too.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:34 PM   #3152
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They had the alloy rf2 at speedtechrc. Priced lower too.
They were out of stock, as was a main.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:41 PM   #3153
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i think yeti covered it pretty well. i personally wouldnt use any of those settings though. the car is plenty agressive with more stock settings and all your settings seem to be to make it more aggressive. i did see you write that your coming over from a 210 though right?
Thanks guys for the tips.

What's the wide suspension holders do? What's everyone runningfor a medium clay track, wide or regular?
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:55 PM   #3154
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Has anyone tried running the narrow rear setup on medium bite? I keep breaking rf2s and the aluminum one is back ordered. Everyone local is having the same issue.
I run the narrows... car is already so aggressive, at this point at least for me, the wide rear hangers aren't needed. Rear traction is more predictable with the narrow hangers.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:58 PM   #3155
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I run the narrows... car is already so aggressive, at this point at least for me, the wide rear hangers aren't needed. Rear traction is more predictable with the narrow hangers.
Interesting. I'll try the plastic narrows ones tomorrow and if they work out ill snag the aluminum.
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:19 AM   #3156
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Interesting. I'll try the plastic narrows ones tomorrow and if they work out ill snag the aluminum.
you can find them on ebayas well. Take about 7-10 days to get them, I believe is how long mine took.
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:40 AM   #3157
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This reminds me. Is there a part number for the thicker RF2 plastic suspension block that comes with the kit? The one that comes with the UM508C tree is the older RF2 with the thin edges. Try putting one of those on and you will be replacing it every few races if your track has any sizable jumps at all. Kyosho must have found that out and beefed it up, but how do you buy it? Am I missing something?
Randy - I believe the part number you're looking for is UM726. It's specified as a mid-motor part, but the bubble callout 132 in the manual points to this number in the parts list rather than UM508C, which would be for the old thinner toe blocks. The image on the page should show you that the part you're looking for is on the right side of the tree.

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Sus-Hol...r_p_11159.html

I had to do some digging myself to figure it out - I remember that the RF2 block was the only piece from that tree that I used in the build.
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:52 AM   #3158
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Has anyone tried running the narrow rear setup on medium bite? I keep breaking rf2s and the aluminum one is back ordered. Everyone local is having the same issue.
Cody Turner and a few of the other team drivers have switched to running narrow blocks.
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Old 12-06-2012, 04:12 AM   #3159
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Randy - I believe the part number you're looking for is UM726. It's specified as a mid-motor part, but the bubble callout 132 in the manual points to this number in the parts list rather than UM508C, which would be for the old thinner toe blocks. The image on the page should show you that the part you're looking for is on the right side of the tree.

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Sus-Hol...r_p_11159.html

I had to do some digging myself to figure it out - I remember that the RF2 block was the only piece from that tree that I used in the build.
those parts are for only MM as it uses the 18mm screws that go right up into the rear bulkhead and the one on the right goes on the rear front .
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Old 12-06-2012, 04:41 AM   #3160
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So how many guys have moved from heavier full sized lipos, to lighter or shorty lipos? I have been running my Fantom 6500 65c Lipos in this car since day 1, and as fantastic as the car is, it just "felt" too heavy on the track.

This last weekend I decided to run shorties for the day, and MAN what a difference! I did some weighing, and with my 6500s, the car was 200 grams over weight with a full sized BLS351 servo. With the a shorty, I was only 100 grams over weight and it made all the difference in the world. Car was snappier, responded better in all regards (throttle, braking, and turning), and it made a noticeable difference in lap times, first time on the track. I ran the shorty dead smack in the middle of where the full sized pack sat to keep the F to R weight bias about the same... worked perfect.

I can't see me ever going back to a heavy ~300gram pack ever again in this car. Im going to stick with the ~200. Needless to say, I immediately put an order in for a pair of Fantom 4500 shorties. Can't wait to get more track time in the newer lighter set up. -YMMV
Are saddles like shorties? I've been running GenAce full size pack since day 1... Looking for the Orion's saddles (either 5500 or the 4500 ones i don't know yet) if they are worth the money.
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:54 AM   #3161
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What is the difference between the blocks on the track?
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:07 AM   #3162
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So I just put the triad in my car. I run stock also so keep that in mind. I liked the overall feel of the slipper and it seemed to be much more consistent than the ae pads with spur gear I was using. I have yet to try it out in mod, but I think I will be doing that in the next couple of weeks.

Overall if the swap out was just simple kit without having to buy the new top shaft for the car, I would say definitely get it! But since you need to buy a new top shaft for it, it's somewhat questionable. Maybe I will notice more of a difference in modified when I start playing with it.

In regards to the pistons AVID makes I would have to say I like them quite a bit. Very smooth and when changing out between the the 4 hole 1.6 and 1.1 to the two hole 1.6 from the stock pistons it seemed to settle the car down quite a bit and actually seemed like it helped it to jump slighting better. I did manage to get a couple sub 21s in practice but in my qualifiers I was a little all over the place, as my concentration really wasn't there for some reason.
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:18 AM   #3163
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Are saddles like shorties? I've been running GenAce full size pack since day 1... Looking for the Orion's saddles (either 5500 or the 4500 ones i don't know yet) if they are worth the money.
no. Saddles are in between weight and size. Which you choose to run is about the weight and ability to move it in the battery box for tuning. Iv'e used all three, saddles only because I have them sitting around for the ZX.
If I ran blinky 17.5 I'd tune for the shorty. For open I'd use full size stick for weight/traction.
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:45 AM   #3164
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I love my stock body all painted up...

Nice!!!!!!!!!!
(Did you paint that yourself Kevin or did Josh paint it?)


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Old 12-06-2012, 09:04 AM   #3165
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Default shock pistons

has anyone other then me even tried the kyosho 6 hole pistons 1.25mm . i run them front and rear they are super smooth and the car works awesome .

Last edited by fastestwon; 12-06-2012 at 11:09 AM.
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