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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-05-2012, 10:10 AM   #3121
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Originally Posted by Outtacontrol58 View Post
Has anyone switched from a tlr22 to the rb6? I'm wondering if its worth the switch, I also have a 22sct.
Hell yeah.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:12 AM   #3122
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Hi everyone,

Just to let you know, I broke my steering rack and installed the aluminum exotek and after pretty severe crash I broke the stock steering cranks. Replaced them with the exotek aluminum and steering is much more precise due to no flex.

I highly recommend both exotek steering rack and cranks, best upgrade so far.
I dont have any flex after I put my exotek rack in. Don't see the need for the cranks at all.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:22 AM   #3123
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
I dont have any flex after I put my exotek rack in. Don't see the need for the cranks at all.

I'm sure you don't but, the cranks do make the steering more precise. I noticed a difference maybe because I run on carpet.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:25 AM   #3124
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
If you have a decent servo that shouldn't happen.
only time will tell . i don't have any issues with mine . i am talking about racers that are hitting objects hard enough to break their steering racks .
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:29 AM   #3125
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I'm sure you don't but, the cranks do make the steering more precise. I noticed a difference maybe because I run on carpet.
true I run on soft clay .
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:36 AM   #3126
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Originally Posted by Outtacontrol58 View Post
Has anyone switched from a tlr22 to the rb6? I'm wondering if its worth the switch.
The cars are night and day different. The 6 is a really nimble and aggressive car, where as the 22 is lazy like a limousine. Both can do great in the right hands, paired up with the right driver. The 6 is certainly the faster car, but the 22 would be easier to drive. Durability is about the same on both cars. Better shocks, better diff, better steering rack (by far), and better chassis layout in the 6.

I can't think of anything on the 22 that is superior to the 6. I raced a 22 for about 6 months before moving on.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:15 AM   #3127
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
I just threw up a little. Its like carrying a backpack on itself behind the cab.
I just like the wheels to keep the wheel nut from snagging on anything.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:33 AM   #3128
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Pro-Line 2012 BullDog for RB6 rocks!



See more details here
Not feeling this one. I still think the stock body is good enough
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:09 PM   #3129
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Not feeling this one. I still think the stock body is good enough
I agree... Kinda ugly in my book. I wont be running one of these. But PART of me just thinks it might be the awful paint job they chose too...
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:10 PM   #3130
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Originally Posted by x7tristan View Post
I haven't built the car yet. I was going through the manual beforehand and noticed the possible shims/inserts.

For starters lets say I wanted 20deg caster, 1.5 anti-squat, 2.5deg rear toe, what would I do?
You can't run 20deg caster but you can run 21. 25deg pivot block with 4deg inserts but flip the inserts to the opposite sides. They would slide in from the opposite side btw.
1.5 anti squat would require a .5 shim and a .25 shim....our just use .75 ball stud shims.
2.5 rear toe...use .5 hubs with left on right side and right ohm the left side. I have done that when running slicks.
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:13 PM   #3131
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Not feeling this one. I still think the stock body is good enough
What are proline thinking, this is ugly.
Stock body looks way better IMO
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:29 PM   #3132
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What are proline thinking, this is ugly.
Stock body looks way better IMO
i agree...won't see one on my car
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:59 PM   #3133
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A good thing about the stock Kyosho body is that it looks great even with one paint color scheme [easiest to paint]. The lines look great, good enough on my book.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:21 PM   #3134
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That backpack comment is right on the money.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:05 PM   #3135
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Originally Posted by x7tristan View Post
I haven't built the car yet. I was going through the manual beforehand and noticed the possible shims/inserts.

For starters lets say I wanted 20deg caster, 1.5 anti-squat, 2.5deg rear toe, what would I do?
i think yeti covered it pretty well. i personally wouldnt use any of those settings though. the car is plenty agressive with more stock settings and all your settings seem to be to make it more aggressive. i did see you write that your coming over from a 210 though right?
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