R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Like Tree6Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-03-2012, 06:09 PM   #3091
Tech Elite
 
Mxer59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 2,671
Trader Rating: 114 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by abinder View Post
I'm currently running my 17.5 Tekin Gen2 at about 38 degrees of timing with a 28 pinion and 72 spur gear.
(I'm running it at WCRC.)


Allen
I'm at 20% end bell timing, I was running 72-34 on my b4.1 WC (not sure if gear ratios between both cars are different) but I want a little more bottem grunt for out of corner double. Med to low traction- with loose dirt top soil. Tire of choice is Jc goosebumps or pro Tazers
__________________
5ive T (Bartoline 28.5cc, Bartoline Pipe, Team Chase)
Futaba 4pls
Team Chase 2015
Rd. 2 TQ-1st--Rd. 3 3rd
Mxer59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 06:17 PM   #3092
Tech Champion
 
lbckevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 5,484
Trader Rating: 89 (99%+)
Default

Mxer,

That gearing is fine...The biggest you can fit is a 33 pinion with an AE 72 spur without dremeling the motor plate. The motor timing is very low, turn it up to around 35 degrees and check your temps after a couple of minutes.

I run a Schuur Speed at 33/72 with 40 degrees of timing and its supa fast !!
__________________
Kevin Smith
Hobbywing * Pro-Line * MIP * Paint Monster
lbckevin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 06:20 PM   #3093
Tech Champion
 
lbckevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 5,484
Trader Rating: 89 (99%+)
Default

The new Tekin Redline 2 motors are very fast ( read high rpm) and they need to be geared a little lower. 29/32 should be fine with 30 degrees of timing to be equivalent to most competitive stock motors.
__________________
Kevin Smith
Hobbywing * Pro-Line * MIP * Paint Monster
lbckevin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 06:21 PM   #3094
Tech Champion
 
lbckevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 5,484
Trader Rating: 89 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
Anyone got an opinion on tuning for heat using timing adjust vs regearing?

Also, is the finisher the only other body available so far? I'm still hanging for a non-cab forward body...
Proline is working on a body, but it is cab forward. You can run your old rb5 body with some trimming as well. All new bodies will be cab forward and have much better handling than the older bodies.
__________________
Kevin Smith
Hobbywing * Pro-Line * MIP * Paint Monster
lbckevin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 06:21 PM   #3095
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,083
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
Anyone got an opinion on tuning for heat using timing adjust vs regearing?..
You don't tune for heat.. you tune for lap times, WITH a temp limit.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 06:29 PM   #3096
Tech Champion
 
lbckevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 5,484
Trader Rating: 89 (99%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
You don't tune for heat.. you tune for lap times, WITH a temp limit.
+1
__________________
Kevin Smith
Hobbywing * Pro-Line * MIP * Paint Monster
lbckevin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 06:45 PM   #3097
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,083
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Let me clarify... sorry if i was a bit vague. Here is a prime example.. I will use myself.

I have my gearing set to THEE sweet spot for the gear I run, and my track. I run

Fantom Apex 17.5
12.5 HT rotor
maxed end bell timing
31/69
~120 after 8 minutes

The car is SUPER fast for a 17.5. It has the perfect balance of rip in the infield, and pulling speed down the straight. On COUNTLESS occasions, and at multple tracks (albeit similiar sized tracks). I have gone down to 30/69, and tried 32/69. Going up one tooth or down one tooth hurts my laptimes. Either I max out too early on the straight and loose my pulling power, or gearing up looses a bit too much of the infield rip that I need. So, since I am WAY under the heat limit, heat doesn't even come into play in my gearing. Gear UP until my motor is coming off at 160 (Gearing for heat), would certainly decrease performance on the race clock.

There is newer guy at my track who runs 17.5 SC, and was worried that his motor was coming off too cool.. so he geared up 2 extra teeth... and his lap times were no better at all... but he was coming off hotter. So where he gained on the straight, he was then losing in the infield on the tight sections of the track. It is a net loss.

Now, that doesn't mean that for YOU, and YOUR gear, and YOUR track... wont get the best lap times geared tall and up against the heat limit. That very well may be the case.

So gear for performance/lap times... as long as it is under the heat limit. If the best performance keeps you coming off the track at 180 degrees, you need to gear down to save on temp, and find another way to improve your lap times. (smoother throttle, smoother brake, better cornerspeed, etc).

Just my $.02! Hope that makes more sense.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 07:57 PM   #3098
Tech Master
 
silvalis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,545
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Yes, this is how I currently gear too. However, I was toying with the idea of gearing slightly down and increasing timing for more top end rpm, or vice versa - gearing slightly up, then decreasing timing for slightly more torque (although I suspect the torque gains here would be less than regearing). It would potentially be a more fine tuning than gearing up/down (even though this is fine enough).

Alternatively, what I want to think about is why your timing is maxed out.

This is all stemming from me being stupid, blowing up my Ion3 and putting in a Xerun 17.5 locked timing I had sitting around, which came off @5m cold @69/34. Waiting for new reedy motor...
__________________
2013 QLD Champion Potato Sack Racer

Last edited by silvalis; 12-03-2012 at 08:10 PM.
silvalis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 08:17 PM   #3099
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,083
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

in some regards, how tall or short you gear your motor is kind of synonymous with how much endbell timing you run. I get similar results (less torque, more top end) by gearing up OR turning up the end bell timing. Some motors seem to run better geared taller with less timing, some run better geared lower, with MORE timing. The Fantom APEX loves the endbell timing, which is where the top end comes from. I fine tune the motor's response from there, with gearing. It's give and take with both settings.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 12:53 PM   #3100
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,083
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

So how many guys have moved from heavier full sized lipos, to lighter or shorty lipos? I have been running my Fantom 6500 65c Lipos in this car since day 1, and as fantastic as the car is, it just "felt" too heavy on the track.

This last weekend I decided to run shorties for the day, and MAN what a difference! I did some weighing, and with my 6500s, the car was 200 grams over weight with a full sized BLS351 servo. With the a shorty, I was only 100 grams over weight and it made all the difference in the world. Car was snappier, responded better in all regards (throttle, braking, and turning), and it made a noticeable difference in lap times, first time on the track. I ran the shorty dead smack in the middle of where the full sized pack sat to keep the F to R weight bias about the same... worked perfect.

I can't see me ever going back to a heavy ~300gram pack ever again in this car. Im going to stick with the ~200. Needless to say, I immediately put an order in for a pair of Fantom 4500 shorties. Can't wait to get more track time in the newer lighter set up. -YMMV
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 12:58 PM   #3101
Tech Master
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,075
Trader Rating: 62 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
So how many guys have moved from heavier full sized lipos, to lighter or shorty lipos? I have been running my Fantom 6500 65c Lipos in this car since day 1, and as fantastic as the car is, it just "felt" too heavy on the track.

This last weekend I decided to run shorties for the day, and MAN what a difference! I did some weighing, and with my 6500s, the car was 200 grams over weight with a full sized BLS351 servo. With the a shorty, I was only 100 grams over weight and it made all the difference in the world. Car was snappier, responded better in all regards (throttle, braking, and turning), and it made a noticeable difference in lap times, first time on the track. I ran the shorty dead smack in the middle of where the full sized pack sat to keep the F to R weight bias about the same... worked perfect.

I can't see me ever going back to a heavy ~300gram pack ever again in this car. Im going to stick with the ~200. Needless to say, I immediately put an order in for a pair of Fantom 4500 shorties. Can't wait to get more track time in the newer lighter set up. -YMMV
I like mine with shorties too.
sipaboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 01:43 PM   #3102
Tech Regular
 
fastestwon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: michigan USA
Posts: 258
Trader Rating: 15 (94%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
So how many guys have moved from heavier full sized lipos, to lighter or shorty lipos? I have been running my Fantom 6500 65c Lipos in this car since day 1, and as fantastic as the car is, it just "felt" too heavy on the track.

This last weekend I decided to run shorties for the day, and MAN what a difference! I did some weighing, and with my 6500s, the car was 200 grams over weight with a full sized BLS351 servo. With the a shorty, I was only 100 grams over weight and it made all the difference in the world. Car was snappier, responded better in all regards (throttle, braking, and turning), and it made a noticeable difference in lap times, first time on the track. I ran the shorty dead smack in the middle of where the full sized pack sat to keep the F to R weight bias about the same... worked perfect.

I can't see me ever going back to a heavy ~300gram pack ever again in this car. Im going to stick with the ~200. Needless to say, I immediately put an order in for a pair of Fantom 4500 shorties. Can't wait to get more track time in the newer lighter set up. -YMMV
i have been running shorty packs pretty much from day one . i tried the long battery once just to see . short packs way better
fastestwon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 02:46 PM   #3103
Tech Elite
 
t8rtot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,008
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

has anyone put on the exotek shock post? any issues with metal/metal contact? pictures?
__________________
Sfida
t8rtot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 03:16 PM   #3104
Tech Champion
 
lbckevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 5,484
Trader Rating: 89 (99%+)
Default

I also have run the short pack in mine. All of the Kyosho drivers at West Coast are all running the shorty.
__________________
Kevin Smith
Hobbywing * Pro-Line * MIP * Paint Monster
lbckevin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2012, 08:23 PM   #3105
Tech Adept
 
x7tristan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Vienna, Va
Posts: 207
Default New to RB6

Hey guys I'm having trouble understanding how all the tuning shims and inserts work. Is there a simple chart like the one for the FS2, that explains how the suspension shims/inserts affect the kick up/anti squat/rear toe?
__________________
TJ

DURANGO DESC410R
x7tristan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ryde it like you stole it: the Ryde Drivers thread. old_skoolie Australian Racing 22936 08-14-2017 04:25 AM
Island Raceway & Hobby (IRH), Lindenhurst, NY - Indoor Off-Road Track in Long Island Asharus Northeast Racing Forum 15013 06-22-2017 04:17 PM
Kyosho Ultima RB5 Thread Drift_Buggy Electric Off-Road 14641 11-10-2015 08:28 AM
Kyosho Ultima SC aeRayls Electric Off-Road 2599 04-27-2014 04:30 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 members and 3 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:54 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net