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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-27-2012, 09:47 AM
  #2911  
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I have a different take. I do love the shorty but could never decide which position to put it. Rear = awesome fwd bite ok ok jumping, front ok fwd bite great jumper great in corners.

So I bought the ip 3800 stick full pack, it weighs less than my shorty and spreads weight accross the chassis .
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:48 AM
  #2912  
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
I have a different take. I do love the shorty but could never decide which position to put it. Rear = awesome fwd bite ok ok jumping, front ok fwd bite great jumper great in corners.

So I bought the ip 3800 stick full pack, it weighs less than my shorty and spreads weight accross the chassis .
Or you could run the shorty right smack in the middle of where a full sized pack normally sits to keep your F/R balance the same.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:56 AM
  #2913  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Or you could run the shorty right smack in the middle of where a full sized pack normally sits to keep your F/R balance the same.
yes and you can also move it forward or back if you feel you need to .
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:33 AM
  #2914  
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Originally Posted by fastestwon
yes and you can also move it forward or back if you feel you need to .
Yep, I just love the ip battery for punch compared to the protek 70C shorty which tapered off in 6 months.

On another note, has anyone tried running saddle packs one all the way near servo and the other all the way to back? In theory more weight on/near axles should help weight transfer correct? Mostly for low mid grip tracks. I will have to rewire my esc for that but will do it sometime next week.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:22 PM
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I prefer running my shorty in the forward position and have flipped the rear battery holder around. No longer need to use foam spacers as it fits perfectly and is snug. If I ever needed to move it back, I just flip the brace around. If I want to run full size lipo, I remove the brace all together... R'Dub
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-dscn9292.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-dscn9293.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-dscn9294.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-dscn9295.jpg  
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by desertracerdad
I prefer running my shorty in the forward position and have flipped the rear battery holder around. No longer need to use foam spacers as it fits perfectly and is snug. If I ever needed to move it back, I just flip the brace around. If I want to run full size lipo, I remove the brace all together... R'Dub
Have you considered moving your transponder to the opposite side of the car of the reciever? Then you could reduce that weight used for lateral balance.
Just a suggestion.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
Have you considered moving your transponder to the opposite side of the car of the reciever? Then you could reduce that weight used for lateral balance.
Just a suggestion.
from what i can see his transponder is right behind his servo in the middle
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:58 PM
  #2918  
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Originally Posted by desertracerdad
I prefer running my shorty in the forward position and have flipped the rear battery holder around. No longer need to use foam spacers as it fits perfectly and is snug. If I ever needed to move it back, I just flip the brace around. If I want to run full size lipo, I remove the brace all together... R'Dub
I have my setup something like that, but the forward battery holder is all the way up against the servo and I have a piece of foam in front of the rear battery holder to take up the extra space.


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Old 11-27-2012, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by fastestwon
from what i can see his transponder is right behind his servo in the middle
Yes, it is. What I'm suggesting is that he move it to the left side of the chassis where he has some balast placed. I assume the balast is for lateral balance. If he moved the transponder there, he could reduce or remove the balast.
A minor detail for sure
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
Yep, I just love the ip battery for punch compared to the protek 70C shorty which tapered off in 6 months.
I have never heard of IP batteries. Can someone send me a link. I have larger stick packs (orion 90c 65000MAH) and I'm looking to get a shorty pack for my RB6 and wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations.
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:21 PM
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I just bought this: http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=2638
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:25 PM
  #2922  
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Why would you mount a transponder back on the side...? It should always be in the front.
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
Yes, it is. What I'm suggesting is that he move it to the left side of the chassis where he has some balast placed. I assume the balast is for lateral balance. If he moved the transponder there, he could reduce or remove the balast.
A minor detail for sure
I appreciate the suggestion, thank you

I prefer the cleaner look and the car is balanced for my likinig. If I did run the PT on the other side, I would need either an extension (to run the wire around the cradle to the RX or to run the wires over or under the battery... Not fond of either route and I like having the PT closer to the front of my buggy.

Thanks again for the input!
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by b121774
I run that Lipo. Nice and punchy in my RB6, which I hope to race tomorrow....

God willing my lead singer actually goes back to Germany.
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by lbckevin
Why would you mount a transponder back on the side...? It should always be in the front.
+1 give ya 1/10th faster lap...

ok, maybe a 1/100th faster....lol
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