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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-26-2012, 05:37 PM   #2881
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
stop shopping on Amain.. go back a page or two and see why..

as a matter of fact..

http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=1958

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...XGS013&x=0&y=0

man i have too much free time..
With saving like that, it makes up for the free Amain shipping on parts-...WoW
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:16 PM   #2882
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Too many other variables. Track was blown out... tires weren't as broken in... who knows. It wasn't because he moved from RM to MM though. The track appears to be no more than a medium bite type track where a RM balance will give a noticeable advantage.
Actually you're the same reason you think RM would help is why MM is helping him. Like he said the pendulum effect is causing a large amount of weight transfer on a medium traction track where (in stock buggy) MM allows him to come into the corner faster and carry that speed thru the turn and because of this, on exit, he's driving faster than traction available causing him to step out. In mod this may cause an issue, but not with a 17.5...

To say it was everything else but MM and to completely discredit it for no other reason but it's not the norm is very disappointing coming from you. Especially since you're an integral part of this thread and this forum. I figured you'd be more open minded even more so with all the cars you've owned.

There may be other factors, but mid motor from a design aspect continues to be faster when set up and designed correctly. I'm a believer, once the money is spent to really making it main stream and the technology catches up...just remember I told you so. But for now, the tires don't have the traction in mod
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:24 PM   #2883
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Originally Posted by offroad dude View Post
With saving like that, it makes up for the free Amain shipping on parts-...WoW
Im just tired of amain raping on price and shipping, I still order some stuff from them but don't be brainwashed into thinking their the only ones with a selection.

You took the time going with a car that is different from the rest to get an edge, and definately not the cheapest option, why not give you're wallet a break now..
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:25 PM   #2884
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I have a quick question. I'm building my shocks and the manual states to put on the medium O-rings on the bottom of the shock bodies. However, those O-rings are too big. Now the small O-rings will work but they are not called out in the manual. Should I just use the small ones and not the medium ones..?
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:29 PM   #2885
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Never mind I figured it out duh....
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:31 PM   #2886
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
Im just tired of amain raping on price and shipping, I still order some stuff from them but don't be brainwashed into thinking their the only ones with a selection.

You took the time going with a car that is different from the rest to get an edge, and definately not the cheapest option, why not give you're wallet a break now..
x2 on that. I buy speedtech and absolute as far as possible.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:03 PM   #2887
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x2 on that. I buy speedtech and absolute as far as possible.
Back to work is exotek doing some red hubs to go with the nice new shock standoffs?
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:50 PM   #2888
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
Actually you're the same reason you think RM would help is why MM is helping him. Like he said the pendulum effect is causing a large amount of weight transfer on a medium traction track where (in stock buggy) MM allows him to come into the corner faster and carry that speed thru the turn and because of this, on exit, he's driving faster than traction available causing him to step out. In mod this may cause an issue, but not with a 17.5...

To say it was everything else but MM and to completely discredit it for no other reason but it's not the norm is very disappointing coming from you. Especially since you're an integral part of this thread and this forum. I figured you'd be more open minded even more so with all the cars you've owned.

There may be other factors, but mid motor from a design aspect continues to be faster when set up and designed correctly. I'm a believer, once the money is spent to really making it main stream and the technology catches up...just remember I told you so. But for now, the tires don't have the traction in mod
Sorry to disappoint you.. but frankly, im not here to impress you. I just give my opinions like everybody else, you are free to listen to them, or ignore them... matters not to me. But im only here to help.

Iv owned and raced both mid motor cars, and rear motor cars, but only on the tracks local to me here, and lap times always favor the car that has more weight over the drive tires. It's a combination of having only medium levels of traction at hand, and the tight nature of the smaller indoor tracks.

At BRCR we used to run our clay wet. We would mist the track every hour to keep it tacky, and we ran slicks. Our traction level was at or above carpet. Mid motor cars were tops! I ran the Schumacher Couger then, and nobody could touch it. It carried more corner speed, and because traction was SO high, I could get heavy on the throttle on 180s and have plenty of rear grip (no wheel spin). About a year into our clay, we decided to start running our clay like all the other tracks in the area, dry. We would still water at the end of the night, but the clay hardned up over night and through the day (like most tracks) and we ran pinned tires (gold barcodes). Traction was still good, but nothing like the bizzare carpet like traction of the wet clay we used to run. Now that traction level was down to around "medium"... the mid motor cars just couldn't get on the throttle hard enough in some sections of the track. So while they might of been better in the sweeper and some of the faster sections, they were MUCH slower on the 180s and tighter turns where you needed a lot of rear/forward traction. You would spin a bit and lose your momentum, and all of a sudden, all of the time you made up in the fast sections, was gone. Overall laptimes were lower because the car became less consistent. I spent a LOT of time working on setup, and you just can't "out setup" having a lack of weight over the drive tires when traction is low.

Even drivers like Jorn, who is a master of the mid motor car, one of the fastest guys on the planet, ran RM here in the states on our smaller indoor clay tracks in his durango... Why? because it produces faster lap times with that level and type of traction.

Look, im not saying that mid motor can't work with the proper set up. But there is always a give and take with how you run the weight balance and location in a car, and with a lower traction surface, the time you lose from lack on forward traction is greater than the time gained from extra corner speed on the faster sections of the track. If the car was 4wd or front wheel drive, it would be different... but because the car is TWO wheel drive, and they are in the back, RM will produce better traction OVERALL, than MM. (on our surfaces).

So.. that's my opinion, and lap times back me up. Feel free to run MM, or RM, or whatever you want. Here is where we discuss our opinions, and im not disappointed in you for giving yours.
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 11-26-2012 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:58 PM   #2889
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Originally Posted by offroad dude View Post
I have a quick question. I'm building my shocks and the manual states to put on the medium O-rings on the bottom of the shock bodies. However, those O-rings are too big. Now the small O-rings will work but they are not called out in the manual. Should I just use the small ones and not the medium ones..?
all the o rings are the same size for me.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:02 PM   #2890
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Would anyone have or know of someone with a extra set of wide blue aluminum suspension holders? I need some but cant find the RR in stock anywhere. Please PM me if you know of any.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:43 PM   #2891
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I could only get mine from japan on ebay. It was cheaper but still slow took like 2 weeks.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:46 PM   #2892
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Thinking about trying out mid motor just to feel the difference.
My RB6 is built rear motor about how long would it take to convert to mid?
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:10 PM   #2893
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Thinking about trying out mid motor just to feel the difference.
My RB6 is built rear motor about how long would it take to convert to mid?
about an hour including rewiring . if you want more info PM me
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:16 PM   #2894
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I could only get mine from japan on ebay. It was cheaper but still slow took like 2 weeks.
Who was the eBay seller?
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:38 PM   #2895
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Questions?? Aluminum rear pivot blocks

Does anyone know if the strc rb5 aluminum pivot blocks will fit the RB6 and if they are narrow or wide ??
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