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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-25-2012, 07:33 AM   #2806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s.i.jerefos View Post
All I can say is that Exotek ROCKS.
I placed My order of the options for My RB6 and I couldn't believe in My eyes.
I received them in 6 days in Greece via USPS and I was impressed with the quality.
I am making carbon fiber dive equipmentt for 6 years and I can say that I received a high quality ooptionals.
My only problem id that I can't wait to use the mid motor rear tower.
Coould somebody give Me some details about the difference between rear / mid motor usage becsuse thid is My first time with electric off road?
Mid motor would be used for artificial turf/carpet (super high grip) The rear motor is for dirt or clay applications (allows the car to rotate more). That's my understanding ....
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:34 AM   #2807
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Guys just ran mine let night for first time , just out of box setup basically with 8.5 on a semi clay dirt surface indoors, was having problems hooking rear up ,like car just wanted slide everywhere under power . Just curious what some where running as setups
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:28 AM   #2808
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Originally Posted by frito View Post
Guys just ran mine let night for first time , just out of box setup basically with 8.5 on a semi clay dirt surface indoors, was having problems hooking rear up ,like car just wanted slide everywhere under power . Just curious what some where running as setups
I went to gold springs in the rear and removed the .5 shim under the rear hingepin holder. Made a world of difference. ALso went to outside hole on inner camber link on rear and outer on hub.
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Old 11-25-2012, 11:36 AM   #2809
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For those interested, I tried the 2 hole shock pistons (hand made) and they were awesome. I raced at leisure hours in IL which is a large fast track with big jumps and I switched to losi 55's up front and 1.6 2 holes in the rear for the main. I noticed an immediate difference on the positive side. The car still rolled like it should but also soaked up the hard landings. I'm tempted to try the 2 holes in the front too but I like this set up so well I'm afraid to change it.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:01 PM   #2810
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I liked the drilled 55s also. The Losi 55s are actually smaller than drilled 55s.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:08 PM   #2811
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Broke a ballstud in the front bulkhead. The default setup is the ballstud goes on the outer hole. Since the broken ballstud thread was left inside the hole. What will happen if I used the middle hole instead? Of course I have to adjust the turnbuckle to get the camber I want.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:23 PM   #2812
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Originally Posted by sipaboy View Post
Broke a ballstud in the front bulkhead. The default setup is the ballstud goes on the outer hole. Since the broken ballstud thread was left inside the hole. What will happen if I used the middle hole instead? Of course I have to adjust the turnbuckle to get the camber I want.
I moved my front ball stud to the middle position on my car and it helped to get more steering out of my car. Another option would be to use a disc and a dremel to cut a slot in the broken stud, then use a flat head screw driver to get it out.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:25 PM   #2813
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New Kyosho owner here...lol. I just got my RB6 and am trying to fit my Orion R10 Pro speed control into position beneath the rear shock tower. There is a clearance issue with the wires coming out the top of the speedo and into the shock tower base preventing me from placing the speedo in that position. Has anyone else had this problem? It seems like the only option would be to trim a little into the shock tower base. What do you guys think?
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:27 PM   #2814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sipaboy View Post
Broke a ballstud in the front bulkhead. The default setup is the ballstud goes on the outer hole. Since the broken ballstud thread was left inside the hole. What will happen if I used the middle hole instead? Of course I have to adjust the turnbuckle to get the camber I want.
The front end will get a little slower to react. I tried the middle hole out and it's not bad. Lower ur front camber and it help to increase the initial steering you'll loose.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:30 PM   #2815
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Originally Posted by Hollywood_26 View Post
New Kyosho owner here...lol. I just got my RB6 and am trying to fit my Orion R10 Pro speed control into position beneath the rear shock tower. There is a clearance issue with the wires coming out the top of the speedo and into the shock tower base preventing me from placing the speedo in that position. Has anyone else had this problem? It seems like the only option would be to trim a little into the shock tower base. What do you guys think?
i ended up just triming into the shock tower works fine and looks good
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:40 PM   #2816
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i ended up just triming into the shock tower works fine and looks good
I second that I had to do the same thing and it fits perfectly now.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:44 PM   #2817
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Is there really supposed to be this much slop where the shock caps attach to the shock tower?? Seems like the plastic "shock balls" or " shock bushings" are too small ...
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:05 PM   #2818
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Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
Is there really supposed to be this much slop where the shock caps attach to the shock tower?? Seems like the plastic "shock balls" or " shock bushings" are too small ...
Yes, it was designed to be run that way. Do not force thread down any more or you risk binding on the top. I used aluminum nuts and squashed the bushing to make it more snug and my car ran like crap.
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:06 PM   #2819
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I second that I had to do the same thing and it fits perfectly now.
Or you can just rewire the speed control with 14 gauge wire like I and many others have done
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:59 PM   #2820
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Every time I've run my rb6 I've changed one thing and it just gets better and better!
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