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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-20-2012, 03:09 PM   #2716
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Hi everyone.

Has anyone used the JC concepts B4 machined spur gears?

http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=513

What are your thoughts versus the kimborough?

Thanks,
They are useless. The hex is too deep (have to double up on pads to make it work) so the plate catches the delrin.

If you want to use cnc machined spurs, the only option is the TLR jconcepts silent spurs along with the tlr slipper pads. Work better for me than the associated hex pads. Just use the smallest drop of glue to help assembling the pad/spur onto the layshaft.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:47 PM   #2717
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
They are useless. The hex is too deep (have to double up on pads to make it work) so the plate catches the delrin.

If you want to use cnc machined spurs, the only option is the TLR jconcepts silent spurs along with the tlr slipper pads. Work better for me than the associated hex pads. Just use the smallest drop of glue to help assembling the pad/spur onto the layshaft.

Thanks for your advice, I'll get the kimbrough's.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:51 PM   #2718
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Do you guys have a setup for the 17.5, I ran mine for the first time at the AZ state championships and couldnt get it to not push, Also it was hard to get it to not bottom out on mid size jumps. I had mostly kit setup with Tebo's shock positions and ball stud placement, stock pistons, pink front gold rear 35wt in front 37.5 in rear, dry track (blue groove) i will mainly be driving an outdoor watered track. Thanks, i have an RB5 SP2 and am leaning on going back to it but im sure the 6 is better just need to set it up better. THX
For me I run the Japan all round setup. With the only changes being gold rear springs, .5 rear hubs, and I I have my oil at 32.5 front 27.5 rear since I do a lot of running on cold indoor tracks as of late. And I'm also geared at 30/76. I run either square fuzzie m4 rears with jconcepts green rips infront and hot bodies pink rear an pink fullshot fronts. This works for me.

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Old 11-20-2012, 05:28 PM   #2719
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Originally Posted by OnRDPassion View Post
In the manual it says to add a little grease in the gear box, also the grinding is happening without a motor in the car yet.
I notice I have the same 'scratchy' sound, without the motor. Strange as I never had this sound from building the RB5 multiple times. Checked and no flashing on the gears. I'm just going to 'run it off'
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:34 PM   #2720
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Isn't the weight difference between a full size and a short servo about 10 or 15g?

Mount the shorty forwards, stick 10g onto the servo and put your transponder on top of that :P
Difference between BSx and one10 is 14.6g so just slap 15g on
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:35 PM   #2721
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Difference between BSx and one10 is 14.6g so just slap 15g on
I saw that too, but then looked at a regular sized futaba BLS servo which reckoned 58g or so
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:36 PM   #2722
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Thanks for your advice, I'll get the kimbrough's.
mm yeah I recall having to dremel the hexs a bit so the slipper plates wouldn't sit on the plastic.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:51 PM   #2723
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Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 View Post
Just on the rear. Comparing 55's w/27.5 to the 2 hole w/27.5 they feel about the same on the bench but the car recovers super quick on landings. When not landing perfect it just soaks it up and goes. The rear felt a little slow on the bench so I went to 25wt. It obviously has a little less pack but I still like it better. My new ones are 1.55 holes which I will try with 25 as well. At LHR it helps A LOT with the larger jumps. I dont feel it affected traction o.e way or the other compared to 55s.
this will be the next thing i try. AE guys seem to swear by 2 hole pistons. worth a shot. I really liked the losi 55s in my rb5. Trackside rarely has LHR sized jumps but with that being said, we always seem to have some flat lander with an immediate 180 or something else requiring your vehicle to be set and ready. thanks for the info.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:03 PM   #2724
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Difference between BSx and one10 is 14.6g so just slap 15g on
If I could fit it under the servo, that would be ideal....
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:39 PM   #2725
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If I could fit it under the servo, that would be ideal....
Like I said Sunday at the track, double-side tape the 1/2oz weight to the back of the KO RSX One10 servo. Run the shorty pack forward and you are dialed you can move the Lipo around in the chassis to where YOU like the weight the best
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:43 PM   #2726
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
If I could fit it under the servo, that would be ideal....
I think the CofG of the servo is not skewed towards the side facing the chassis anyway, so I just stick the weight on top-side or 'bottom' of the servo which is a tad closer to the chassis. With the RB5, a short servo allows some room to stick weights behind the servo directly to the chassis, ableit a little further towards the battery. The same could apply for the RB6. I see you point though with moving the entire CofG higher (or towards the rear in my case), YMMV Cheers,
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:55 PM   #2727
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You could also probably get away with putting 10g on the chassis under the steering instead...
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:22 PM   #2728
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I notice I have the same 'scratchy' sound, without the motor. Strange as I never had this sound from building the RB5 multiple times. Checked and no flashing on the gears. I'm just going to 'run it off'
Team tidbit... Buy the Carbon Composite gearbox (UMW504C). They are manufactured with more carbon/glass (to be stiffer), there is less shrink and the tolerances are better which allow the tranny & gears to run smoother.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:36 PM   #2729
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Team tidbit... Buy the Carbon Composite gearbox (UMW504C). They are manufactured with more carbon/glass (to be stiffer), there is less shrink and the tolerances are better which allow the tranny & gears to run smoother.
I'm not going to make it after all, my band got booked to play a show tomorrow night in Hollyweird.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:38 PM   #2730
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Like I said Sunday at the track, double-side tape the 1/2oz weight to the back of the KO RSX One10 servo. Run the shorty pack forward and you are dialed you can move the Lipo around in the chassis to where YOU like the weight the best
That's what I plan on doing for testing. I do have to admit I am liking the Orion servo a lot. Just think the KO is much better quality. I need to try the tests with the new front tires I have on the car now. I noticed that the outside rib on the tire was basically fried. OC/RC "clay" for yah. Cant complain they lasted through an RB5, B4.1, and the RB6.
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