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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-19-2012, 06:34 PM   #2671
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Hey All. Just wanted to check in on the RB6. Are you guys having as much luck with it as the RB5? I would like to get one but I run stock 17.5 blinky at my track and some feel the RB6 is too heavy for this class. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:45 PM   #2672
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So I really want to use the aluminum battery holddowns for this car but how can you mount them in it?
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:47 PM   #2673
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Originally Posted by Mxpdx View Post
Hey All. Just wanted to check in on the RB6. Are you guys having as much luck with it as the RB5? I would like to get one but I run stock 17.5 blinky at my track and some feel the RB6 is too heavy for this class. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
I've been running mine in 17.5 blinky for 2 months now and I absolutely love it. The weight doesn't seem to be a hindrance IMO though logic says it should but I even run a full stick pack instead of a shorty. My lap times are right there with guys running B4s, 22s, and RB5s. (Though my own consistency isn't ) run both tight and open indoor tracks and had a few runs outdoors too. I just love my RB6 that's all I need to say

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Old 11-19-2012, 06:58 PM   #2674
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Originally Posted by Mxpdx View Post
Hey All. Just wanted to check in on the RB6. Are you guys having as much luck with it as the RB5? I would like to get one but I run stock 17.5 blinky at my track and some feel the RB6 is too heavy for this class. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
I think for example last night in the stock 17.5 blinky class at my track the RB6 went 1, 2 and 3. That should say something.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:28 PM   #2675
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just wondering can you still use a full size battery pack in mid motor for a rb6 like the dex210?
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:37 PM   #2676
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just wondering can you still use a full size battery pack in mid motor for a rb6 like the dex210?
Ideally no. Because the esc then has to be stuck on top of the battery or somewhere in the sides. Saddles or shorty will be my choice if I decide to go mid motor.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:37 PM   #2677
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Originally Posted by davespeed View Post
just wondering can you still use a full size battery pack in mid motor for a rb6 like the dex210?
I am almost positive the answer is no but someone else can chime in for sure.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:00 PM   #2678
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Just buy a set of losi BB pistons and you're good to go. You get a full set of 54s, 55s, 56s, and 57s... and they are cheap and work perfect. Currently running 55s all around pink/32 front, red or gold/25 rear.
Thx man. Been running the 55s front and rear but drilled some 55s from K blanks. I like the 2 hole 1.6 rear with 25wt a little better than the 4 hole and 30wt front with the 55s. I just chamferd each side of a 6 hole K piston, glued it, and drilled the last 2 to a 1.6mm.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:02 PM   #2679
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@davespeed

You can, it's perfectly possible. I would recommend saddles though, since you get more front with those (i'm using the full size bat, and i'm changing to saddles), and you get a prettier "deck", i.e., ESC behind the saddles etc...
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:32 PM   #2680
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Originally Posted by Mxpdx View Post
Hey All. Just wanted to check in on the RB6. Are you guys having as much luck with it as the RB5? I would like to get one but I run stock 17.5 blinky at my track and some feel the RB6 is too heavy for this class. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
The 3 top fast stock guys at West Coast RC run RB6's. LBCKevins RB6 17.5 blinky mode looked like it was a mod car to me last night.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:35 PM   #2681
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The 3 top fast stock guys at West Coast RC run RB6's. LBCKevins RB6 17.5 blinky mode looked like it was a mod car to me last night.
Do you know what motors they are running?
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:38 PM   #2682
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Do you know what motors they are running?
Shurr Speed 17.5's. Geared 72/33. Use Associated Spur and slipper pads. Or wait for Triad system to come out. It should not be long now. I myself not being of their caliber of driver yet, did manage to place 3rd overall in qualifying in Intermediate Stock class this past weekend with an Orion Pro Stock 17.5 (2010 grey can) Motor. Was not slow at all.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:42 PM   #2683
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I am going through my car again and i noticed some gear grinding in the gear box. I thought that maybe I was a little heavy on grease on the gears so i pulled it apart and built it again. I then put it together three times now and I still have gear grinding. Has anyone else run into this or have any ideas of what it might be? I also checked the gears and cleaned all of them to make sure there was nothing stuck in the teeth.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:00 PM   #2684
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I am going through my car again and i noticed some gear grinding in the gear box. I thought that maybe I was a little heavy on grease on the gears so i pulled it apart and built it again. I then put it together three times now and I still have gear grinding. Has anyone else run into this or have any ideas of what it might be? I also checked the gears and cleaned all of them to make sure there was nothing stuck in the teeth.
look at the thrust assembly
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:49 PM   #2685
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Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 View Post
Thx man. Been running the 55s front and rear but drilled some 55s from K blanks. I like the 2 hole 1.6 rear with 25wt a little better than the 4 hole and 30wt front with the 55s. I just chamferd each side of a 6 hole K piston, glued it, and drilled the last 2 to a 1.6mm.
i'm kind of interested in the 2 hole piston idea. are you just running those in the rear or the front as well... what do they do in comparison to the 55's or k-55's?
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