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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-13-2012, 05:36 PM   #2566
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I just ordered the Exotek steering rack and I wanted to see if anyone tried their steering crank. Is it worth getting or is the stock one just fine?
I will be installing my crank arms tonight after work
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:50 PM   #2567
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The K studs are awesome. Just use the mediums in the caster blocks. I have found that using Lunsford (or any that use a hex driver in the center of the ball) in the rear camber block is the way to go. You cant get a stud to go in straight using a nut driver.
Yes.. the K ballstuds are just fine. But regardless, the first upgrade I do on any car I own, including my RB6, is a full titanium ball stud kit from lunsford.

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Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 View Post
I will be installing my crank arms tonight after work
I concur with what was posted previously... the alu steering rack is a must, but the plastic arms/swivels should be just fine. Their lateral strength should be more than adequate. I doubt you will ever see one break. Run whichever of the two (alu or plastic) is lighter. The last thing you need is more weight on this car.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:13 PM   #2568
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I have both rack and arms. I prefer the least amount of slop as possible. Plus they look awesome
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:55 PM   #2569
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Just curious: Is anyone with the stock rack still breaking theirs? I ran mine half a dozen times in mod (now back to stock) and the original plastic rack is still fine.

What were you hitting in order to break it? And are these spare plastic racks and exotek rack I bought going to sit in a box looking sad like all of the other K spares I bought for my RB5 and never used...
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:11 PM   #2570
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Default Avid Triad Slipper System

I finally got the chance to test the new Avid Triad slipper & top shaft at WCRC. Between yesterday & today, I have run through at least a dozen battery packs or more. I am running an Orion 17.5 VST (Blinky), geared 69/32.

After my 1st battery pack to get gearing & slipper set, I noticed an enormous improvement in acceleration. The slipper did not fade or need to be adjusted/tightened once during the night and it feels awesome from lap one to the end. Jumps that were normally difficult to clear in NT buggy, were soooooo much easier to approach and land clean with on or off power landings.

I switched back to my kit gearbox/slipper for comparisons sake and ran another pack under same track conditions. Lap times were .5 seconds a lap or faster with the Triad and I have already put the Triad back in to stay. It's hard to not sound like some sort of marketing ad, (but in my opinion), it is a real up-grade!

Going to run it more this week and race with it this weekend... Thanks again to K'Dub (Coach), for letting me test it!

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-dscn7392.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-dscn7393.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-dscn7399.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-dscn7400.jpg  
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:00 PM   #2571
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How did you get a top shaft already? Thanks for the update. I look foward to running mine.
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:22 AM   #2572
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So this is an Avid Kyosho part or one modified from another car?

Any testing in mid config?
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:29 AM   #2573
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Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
Just curious: Is anyone with the stock rack still breaking theirs? I ran mine half a dozen times in mod (now back to stock) and the original plastic rack is still fine.

What were you hitting in order to break it? And are these spare plastic racks and exotek rack I bought going to sit in a box looking sad like all of the other K spares I bought for my RB5 and never used...
I broke mine running mod and a buddy running stock. We broke in the same spot by turning a bit early into a tube. The RB5 would have just spun around and kept going.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:31 AM   #2574
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i switched to the aluminum ackerman arm 2 weaks ago the same night i did i got hit in the air and nosed into the lander breaking my plastic bellcranks, so i've purchased the aluminum ones to replace them. it broke right where the ackerman bolts through the bell crank which does appear to be a thin area. imo
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:45 AM   #2575
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i ordered the rack but havent installed it.. too be honest, if i don't have to i probably wont if i don't break, especially since my servo would be the only weak link in the chain if i went all aluminum.

i'm curious to see what you guys are hitting..
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:46 AM   #2576
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Originally Posted by eper View Post
i switched to the aluminum ackerman arm 2 weaks ago the same night i did i got hit in the air and nosed into the lander breaking my plastic bellcranks, so i've purchased the aluminum ones to replace them. it broke right where the ackerman bolts through the bell crank which does appear to be a thin area. imo
the next part to break would be the steering knuckles and then servo . their has got to be give somewhere since no more servo saver . the only part that i replaced is the ackerman bar to aluminum because it wears out and gets sloppy.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:50 AM   #2577
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t8rtot did you get to try mid motor yet ?
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:54 AM   #2578
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t8rtot did you get to try mid motor yet ?
actually i dropped my radio going in to practice MM so i haven't had a chance to run it.. a few life events have happened since so i haven't raced in a couple weeks. should have my new radio on fri. and will give it a run this weekend.

have you made any setup changes?
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:59 AM   #2579
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actually i dropped my radio going in to practice MM so i haven't had a chance to run it.. a few life events have happened since so i haven't raced in a couple weeks. should have my new radio on fri. and will give it a run this weekend.

have you made any setup changes?
ride height front and rear 24 mm and went to 2mm shims on rear hubs
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:10 AM   #2580
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Default 3 RB6s

their should be three RB6s at the race track this sunday . a guy sent me his RB6 and wanted it changed over to mid motor . he will start with my setup and make changes to suit his driving style if need be . the other guy will be running in rear motor i think running a tebo setup .
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