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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-07-2012, 10:32 AM   #2431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cateye View Post
Hi everyone I need some advise for my RB6 assemble
As I very new to 2wd buggy I would like to know wat is
e different between rear mount & mid mount of e motor
Like which mount is better on wat track or which is better
for loose n less grip track also which battery type is better
stick ,shorty or saddle pack .thank u

Happy R/C
If you are running on a medium traction or loose track, rear motor will yield better lap times. Also, on a very loose track, a heavier car will probably do better as well. I would start with a stick Lipo, and RM.
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:00 AM   #2432
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
If you are running on a medium traction or loose track, rear motor will yield better lap times. Also, on a very loose track, a heavier car will probably do better as well. I would start with a stick Lipo, and RM.
Thank u sir
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:31 AM   #2433
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Brandon has tried just about everything on just about every car and I would take his advice. Sorry for bailing on you Brandon last weekend in Seattle. I ended up not bringing any gear and glad I didn't because I had zero time. Nice weather though! Even saw the sun!
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:47 AM   #2434
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Brandon has tried just about everything on just about every car and I would take his advice. Sorry for bailing on you Brandon last weekend in Seattle. I ended up not bringing any gear and glad I didn't because I had zero time. Nice weather though! Even saw the sun!
Thanks, and not a problem! That's usually how it is when you travel... I could of brought my wife's RB5 for you to drive though... She has en entire set up. Next time
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:29 PM   #2435
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
to be honest, i'd go to the RB6s petit rc page and look at the tips and setups there, that will fill you in and where we are up to the present, and of course reading thru this thread (start about the same time the car became available ) its solid out of the box, has a ton of steering we're dialing out with caster blocks.

Enjoy the build
Thanks!


Allen
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:07 PM   #2436
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Originally Posted by DR.Vanostrum View Post
koyosho usually makes very good stuff but anyone who has really built one of these and ran one for any length of time will know what i am talking about......
Don't agree at all as David and som other drivers in Sweden is using the gear diff when they drive on carpet just att the durability of the gear diff is so good as carpet tracks is really hard on the diff.
With the gear diff he get more forward traction but little less steering, and he dont need to rebuild the diff so often.

He did the same when driving the RB5 earlier. As i remember the parts for building a gear diff don´t cost so much.

The parts are:
• UM605
• UM610
• UM611
• UM612
• UM613
• ORG45S ( important with the "S" )
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:16 PM   #2437
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Yeah for dirt with medium to loose I would hate a gear diff. I love it I can adjust the stock diff feel with just popping a camber link and a flat head screwdriver. For a gear diff changing that out is a pain. I don't get it though how are all TCs fine with ball diffs for carpet? Think the sakura zero is the only one which has gears in it though I might be wrong.
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:21 PM   #2438
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I'm about to by a RB6, is there any parts I need to buy extra to mimic Tebo setup or any setup for a indoor clay track?
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:53 PM   #2439
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Yeah for dirt with medium to loose I would hate a gear diff. I love it I can adjust the stock diff feel with just popping a camber link and a flat head screwdriver. For a gear diff changing that out is a pain. I don't get it though how are all TCs fine with ball diffs for carpet? Think the sakura zero is the only one which has gears in it though I might be wrong.
Why do you have to pop a camber link off to adjust the diff That's what the hole in the outdrive is for. One of the best features of Kyosho :
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:56 PM   #2440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Yeah for dirt with medium to loose I would hate a gear diff. I love it I can adjust the stock diff feel with just popping a camber link and a flat head screwdriver. For a gear diff changing that out is a pain. I don't get it though how are all TCs fine with ball diffs for carpet? Think the sakura zero is the only one which has gears in it though I might be wrong.
you dont need to pop the ball cup off to adjust the diff just get something with a small enough dia to fit into the hole on the left out drive and turn the right wheel clockwise to tighten and anti clockwise to loosen
alot faster end easier
cheers
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:34 PM   #2441
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Dang I feel like a doofuss. I have a plastic clip thingy in there do I remove that for good? This is awesome to adjust after those painful schumacher diffs.
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:40 PM   #2442
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Dang I feel like a doofuss. I have a plastic clip thingy in there do I remove that for good? This is awesome to adjust after those painful schumacher diffs.
Ya, I have never used that clip.
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:44 PM   #2443
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Hello guys.

Anyone tried the gunmetal rear hubs? There are 3 types:

-0º
-0.5º
-1º

What does this angle number mean?! Under what conditions does the part work best?

Cheers, Tiago
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:18 PM   #2444
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Originally Posted by Energyzer View Post
Hello guys.

Anyone tried the gunmetal rear hubs? There are 3 types:

-0º
-0.5º
-1º

What does this angle number mean?! Under what conditions does the part work best?

Cheers, Tiago
These numbers refer to the toe in angle. I think you could also run the -0.5 and the -1 in reverse to create toe out.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:25 PM   #2445
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Dang I feel like a doofuss. I have a plastic clip thingy in there do I remove that for good? This is awesome to adjust after those painful schumacher diffs.
Adjusting the Kyosho diff is as dialed as it gets:

http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...ed-tebo-video/

Throw that plastic clip away, and use something like a 1.5 driver through the hole. You may have to rotate the diff cup to get the driver shaft all the way through.
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