172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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10-24-2012, 08:57 AM
#2043
I dont have any issues, but I'll look into making a plate at work if I have the time. I'm thinking of an alum plate c'sunk but having the opposite side (chassis side) to have the c'sinks prodruding to fit into the stock c'sunk chassis holes. I'll keep ya updated.
10-24-2012, 09:05 AM
#2044
Well, I don't have an RB6, but here is my take on why the rear of the chassis is machined the way it is. As some of you may know, the rear of the chassis, AKA the "t-plate" area, needs to flex to generate traction in a 1/10th scale 2wd buggy. The reason the TLR 22 has a shortcoming in that area is becuase the alloy chassis plate is full thickness all the way back, and the transmission case keys into it perfectly, locking into it and creating a very stiff structure. People think that the 22 raised tranny mod, which increases rear traction, does so due to the change in dogbone plunge. The change in dogbone plunge may have some effect, but what is really happening when you raise the tranny on a 22 is that the structure is "unlocked" and some more flex is introduced.
I was bummed to learn that Kyosho chose to build an alloy chassis car because I had a 22 and I didn't like it, mostly because of the rear traction issues. So I was relieved when I saw that Kyosho did their homework and they machined a lot of relief into the rear of the chassis, so it would be able to flex without raising the tranny. This is why there is a gap around the bottom of the trans case where it protrudes into the chassis plate. Trust me, I'm sure they designed it in Solidworks, Autocad or something similar and making the pocket match the case is actually easier than having to draw up a whole new one. Unfortunatly, they did not anticipate the thin floor of the pocket collapsing in due to chassis slap on uneven surfaces. Anyways, for those of you wondering, that's why the rear of the chassis is so thin, because it needs to be.
I think that the best solution would be to make a plastic insert that fills the gap between the tranny and chassis, without locking it into place. That way it will still function the same.
I was bummed to learn that Kyosho chose to build an alloy chassis car because I had a 22 and I didn't like it, mostly because of the rear traction issues. So I was relieved when I saw that Kyosho did their homework and they machined a lot of relief into the rear of the chassis, so it would be able to flex without raising the tranny. This is why there is a gap around the bottom of the trans case where it protrudes into the chassis plate. Trust me, I'm sure they designed it in Solidworks, Autocad or something similar and making the pocket match the case is actually easier than having to draw up a whole new one. Unfortunatly, they did not anticipate the thin floor of the pocket collapsing in due to chassis slap on uneven surfaces. Anyways, for those of you wondering, that's why the rear of the chassis is so thin, because it needs to be.
I think that the best solution would be to make a plastic insert that fills the gap between the tranny and chassis, without locking it into place. That way it will still function the same.
10-24-2012, 09:41 AM
#2045
Thanks Darkside Designs for the Sick Paint!
Darkside has Chassis Skin guards are on their way!
www.darksidedesigns.net
10-24-2012, 09:58 AM
#2046
I am just stoked that the theory I had was accurate. 
I think Kyosho will come up with something to fill the gaps. We just have to wait and see. As long as the transmission does not get moved out of its normal position from the dents/bends, then dents will be purely cosmetic.
Maybe I should have stuck with engineering school.
I think Kyosho will come up with something to fill the gaps. We just have to wait and see. As long as the transmission does not get moved out of its normal position from the dents/bends, then dents will be purely cosmetic.
Maybe I should have stuck with engineering school.
10-24-2012, 10:34 AM
#2048
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Maybe even E6000. It would be easy to remove. The question is do you put some in and push the case down into it to let it firm up to the perfect shape or try and guess and then install the tranny later. The latter seems sketchy.
10-24-2012, 10:50 AM
#2051
Tech Adept
i like the idea of silicone, wax or grease the trani bottom and silicone the recessed area that way it doesn't stick to the trani bottom.
any word on the Avid Triad slipper for the RB6?
ems
any word on the Avid Triad slipper for the RB6?
ems
10-24-2012, 11:32 AM
#2053
I don't think performance is hurt as of now,but the lip at the back cave in could catch I guess.Buggy is dialed was heart broken to see this. Sent to Kyosho,they wanted to see it before they warranty.I find it hard to believe none of there team drivers have seen this happen especially after the hot rods race!
10-24-2012, 12:09 PM
#2055
Nobody is saying that any kind of chassis tape would help this issue. The two things that we think would help this temporary issue, are
1) Filling in the excess recess area, under the tranny case, with clay (as suggested by kyosho). and/or
2), running a plastic (or whatever material) skid plate over the back of the chassis.
1) Filling in the excess recess area, under the tranny case, with clay (as suggested by kyosho). and/or
2), running a plastic (or whatever material) skid plate over the back of the chassis.