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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-23-2012, 01:12 PM
  #1996  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Testing is hard to do. Think about it for a second. The car is built for racing, not bashing, so it doesn't make sense to see how much abuse it can take and then adjust accordingly. That is my opinion alone. If that would happen the cars would be heavier, thicker, and overall built for abuse instead of racing. Unfortunately its the price we pay for wanting a pure racing car. Yes things can be improved, but that goes with everything, and I'd rather Pros test a car to make sure its good compared to average drivers who club race.

I mean no offense.

I respectfully disagree with you on most of what you are saying about the testing. Yes testing is hard but its worth it in the long run. Most of the problems that are happening currently are in a racing condition, and not bashing. I agree that the top guys should be testing the cars but I also believe the lower B and C drivers should have a crack at it like they did with the RT5. The testing in my option wasnt done as well it should have been done, We all over shoot landings in racing condition with hard landings and if this is a problem it should have presented its self fairly quickly like it has when the car came out.

Usually the General population is a good test of durabilty for a car and thats where you normally find alot of the hidden weak items but why not make sure.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:17 PM
  #1997  
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I have killed my car flat landing so hard off the triple to rip out rear studs and crack the shock tower. My chassis is fine.

Think maybe it is an isolated issue. Maybe a batch or something.

I am horrible and this car has been great so far in the durability stand part.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:23 PM
  #1998  
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nvmd you guys figured it out...
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:36 PM
  #1999  
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here it is for better or worse. it weighs about a nickle (doesn't register on my digital scale). i'll epoxy it and get about 2mm longer screws.
it's made from a piece of black anodized door threshold i had in my shed.



any input from you guys before i set it
would be appreciated.
ems

Last edited by Eric Summers; 10-23-2012 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:41 PM
  #2000  
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Is it 2mm thick?
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:49 PM
  #2001  
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according to my caliper about 2.30mm
also is anyone having The Problem with Mid Motor?
ems
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:52 PM
  #2002  
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Perhaps if they molded the chassis to fit the tranny case better it could fix any issues.

RFury thinks it could.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:00 PM
  #2003  
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first thing i noticed with the chassis is where i believe the circles started to mill the recessed areas.
this chassis is why i purchased my RB6 (like my 811 BE).
ems
PS Kyosho will make it right.
until then i was born to build Lincon logs, tinker toys and Legos and some where (i do still have all my hot wheels since i was 5)
putn' things together is fun trouble shootn' well got to do what you got to do, that's why i rely on your input especially electronics thru out this site.
I have a great appreciation for the tool and die engineers.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:09 PM
  #2004  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Perhaps if they molded the chassis to fit the tranny case better it could fix any issues.

RFury thinks it could.
Yeah, it is just a theory. The bends that I have seen in this thread appear to be at the front or rear of the opening for the tranny case(at least the initial impact site). The tranny case angles up at the front and rear and would leave a gap when the tranny is installed. As thin as this area is it would not take much to bend it.

Changing the chassis or the tranny case to snugly fit the opening would probably solve it.

If you look at the RB5 T-plate, you will see that it is molded to fit the bottom of the tranny case exactly.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:16 PM
  #2005  
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i noticed that the trani does not bottom out in the recessed area maybe the CNC machine was set too deep?
ems

Last edited by Eric Summers; 10-23-2012 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:17 PM
  #2006  
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More likely the design was for it to be as it is, but it should have been shaped to match the case. It is not easy to CNC an angle like that.

As long as the bends don't cause the tranny to not be square to the chassis and bulkhead, it should not effect the car at all.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:37 PM
  #2007  
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I noticed also the step of the recessed area that would make up the rounded
edges of the bottom of trani right?
ems
Darn Fury you have a Bulk load of posts.
i have a lil' time and get a great kick out of all this
i'm more worried of keeping 3500 Dodge on the road to pay for all this.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:39 PM
  #2008  
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Originally Posted by Eric Summers
I noticed also the step of the recessed area that would make up the rounded
edges of the bottom of trani right?
ems
Not quite. As long as the step is a 90 degree angle, there will be a gap.

If you look at this you can see the part I am talking about.



The very bottom flat portion of the case appears to be smaller than the lowest flat portion of the chassis.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:47 PM
  #2009  
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I also don't have an RB6 to look at in the flesh. I am just looking at the pics and trying to put it together in my head.

Edit: If someone could measure how wide the flat spot on the case is(the lowest spot) and how wide the lowest part of the opening in the chassis is, that would be great and would be very telling.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:49 PM
  #2010  
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I Will stay upon this,
my wife works for a Patented Lawyers office, but her boss knows and is an engineer and the like he may know what the flaw should be.
if arises just call Derrick, he was Well Aware even though he said it was only three.
but i had fun making my LIL' part.
better safe than sorry.
Oh what fun
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