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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-15-2012, 02:32 PM   #1606
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I'm on the fence as well on this kit. How is parts avail and durability so far?
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:37 PM   #1607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gitsum View Post
I'm on the fence as well on this kit. How is parts avail and durability so far?
can get parts anywhere online just about-- Absolute, Amain, Speetech, losi parts house, Stormer..

all parts are available from what i can see

just ordered $250 worth today.. excessive i know but i plan on having two buggies soon, the GF needs a new car
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:38 PM   #1608
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I have also broke a steering rack. I did try a b4 one bc I had no parts. I put the B4 rack on so the ballstuds on the spindles lined up, and zero bump steer washers. It actually did smooth the car out. I have sense got ahold of 5 steering racks. Did not brake one last race/practice day. If I ever think the car is twitchy, I may try a B4 rack again.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:50 PM   #1609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msandman View Post
I have also broke a steering rack. I did try a b4 one bc I had no parts. I put the B4 rack on so the ballstuds on the spindles lined up, and zero bump steer washers. It actually did smooth the car out. I have sense got ahold of 5 steering racks. Did not brake one last race/practice day. If I ever think the car is twitchy, I may try a B4 rack again.
Isn't there any aluminum rack as seen in the pics on the first page?
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:56 PM   #1610
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No, that is not available at this time.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:57 PM   #1611
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prototype part, possibly released later

i'm sure companies are working on them in the mean time, however those are the arms, not the rack
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:38 PM   #1612
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The RB6... the game changer.

There were TWO things missing from the RB5 that would of made it the single best car you could buy. One, was that it was very hard to tune the car to feel aggressive. Some tracks, and against some drivers, you need a car that can turn in really sharp. The RB5 was TOO easy to drive. Even when I maxed out the car's edginess, it still wasn't as aggressive as lets say, a B4 can be. And two, with the short chassis anyway, it wasn't all that stable. It was easily the shortest of the buggies out. The RB6 however, is the most aggressive and most stable buggy I have ever seen... it has everything the RB5 didn't, and with abundance.

The Gold Cup
This weekend was the first big race in the Northwest for the RB6. Out of the massive sea of B4.1s (it was hosted at Team AE driver Scott Brown's track, TRCR) and Losi 22s, we had 5 or 6 RB6s in attendance... This was also my first time driving the car. I hadn't even broken in the diff, when I got there on day #1 for practice.

Right off the bat, I could tell the car was an animal. It has more steering then you are ever going to need in an buggy with the kit setup, and it handles the bumps and jumps like nothing else on the market. It took me a couple packs to really get used to how aggressive the buggy is, coming from the RB5 WC. I think a lot of it has to do with the aluminum chassis, and the new forward weight bias of the buggy (that's what it feels like, I haven't actually measured it yet).

There is a steep level of competition at the North West Gold Cup. Day 2 was all qualifying, taking the combination of your best 2 quals out of 4 for placement. Day 3, were main events. Tripple A mains all around, taking points, best 2 of 3 from your mains. I had a blisteringly fast qualifier in one of my three, good enough to put me TQ in 17.5 buggy. Mike Shirk had just a good of a run, tying me for TQ, and he ended up bumping me into #2 on the tie breaker. Former roar national champ John Sterling qualed behind me in 3rd, which I knew would be trouble for me. He didn't have good qualifiers in his first 3, but was easily the fastest on the grid... so I knew I would end up fighting for 3rd place overall.

The mains went very well, and I ended up tying 3rd place in A main points, but losing the tie-breaker, and ended up finishing 4th. A blast of a race.

Setup changes:
Before the mains even started, I had the K drivers running white springs with 37.5 in the front, and gold springs in the rear with 30. I ran the middle hole on the rear arms, and outer hole on the front arms. To me, just by looking at how the car is laid out, it appears the car has a static weight shift to the front (iv not measured it, somebody correct me if im wrong), so I started with the whites/golds to try and help calm the car down. With this combo, the car still turns on a absolute dime, but is just subdued enough to allow you to push the car just a bit harder.

The only other major change I made to the car, was I changed out the rear lower shock ends. I took the long ends off, and ran mediums. I felt the car had WAY too much rear droop out of the box, making the car a tad too wild off throttle. The reduced droop planted the car quite a bit, and it felt more balanced in the corners.

(EDIT: oh yeah.. I am also running none of the optional 3 side screws, on the side chassis pods)

Other than playing with my front camber links a little bit, that was all I did to the car, and it was AMAZING on the track... It performs best in the high speed sections of the track. In our fast sweeper at the straight exit, the RB6 was eating every other car alive.

In short, I think this car is the absolute best of all the chassis out. It's durable like the 22, it turns on a dime like the B4, and it's planted like the RB5. It's only downside, is it's cost. But with what we spend in gas and tires.. .what's an extra $100 for the kit? Nothing... totally worth it, and it's totally gorgeous.
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-mains.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-qualifying.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-imag0275.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-bc.jpg  
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 10-16-2012 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:20 PM   #1613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
The RB6... the game changer.

There were TWO things missing from the RB5 that would of made it the single best car you could buy. One, was that it was very hard to tune the car to feel aggressive. Some tracks, and against some drivers, you need a car that can turn in really sharp. The RB5 was TOO easy to drive. Even when I maxed out the car's edginess, it still wasn't as aggressive as lets say, a B4 can be. And two, with the short chassis anyway, it wasn't all that stable. It was easily the shortest of the buggies out. The RB6 however, is the most aggressive and most stable buggy I have ever seen... it has everything the RB5 didn't, and with abundance.

The Gold Cup
This weekend was the first big race in the Northwest for the RB6. Out of the massive sea of B4.1s (it was hosted at Team AE driver Scott Brown's track, TRCR) and Losi 22s, we had 5 or 6 RB6s in attendance... This was also my first time driving the car. I hadn't even broken in the diff, when I got there on day #1 for practice.

Right off the bat, I could tell the car was an animal. It has more steering then you are ever going to need in an buggy with the kit setup, and it handles the bumps and jumps like nothing else on the market. It took me a couple packs to really get used to how aggressive the buggy is, coming from the RB5 WC. I think a lot of it has to do with the aluminum chassis, and the new forward weight bias of the buggy (that's what it feels like, I haven't actually measured it yet).

There is a steep level of competition at the North West Gold Cup. Day 2 was all qualifying, taking the combination of your best 2 quals out of 4 for placement. Day 3, were main events. Tripple A mains all around, taking points, best 2 of 3 from your mains. I had a blisteringly fast qualifier in one of my three, good enough to put me TQ in 17.5 buggy. Mike Shirk had just a good of a run, tying me for TQ, and he ended up bumping me into #2 on the tie breaker. Former roar national champ John Sterling qualed behind me in 3rd, which I knew would be trouble for me. He didn't have good qualifiers in his first 3, but was easily the fastest on the grid... so I knew I would end up fighting for 3rd place overall.

The mains went very well, and I ended up tying 3rd place in A main points, but losing the tie-breaker, and ended up finishing 4th. A blast of a race.

Setup changes:
Before the mains even started, I had the K drivers running white springs with 37.5 in the front, and gold springs in the rear with 30. I ran the middle hole on the rear arms, and outer hole on the front arms. To me, just by looking at how the car is laid out, it appears the car has a static weight shift to the front (iv not measured it, somebody correct me if im wrong), so I started with the whites/golds to try and help calm the car down. With this combo, the car still turns on a absolute dime, but is just subdued enough to allow you to push the car a big harder.

The only other major change I made to the car, was I changed out the rear lower shock ends. I took the long ends off, and ran mediums. I felt the car had WAY too much rear droop out of the box, making the car a tad too wild off throttle. The reduced droop planted the car quite a bit, and it felt more balanced in the corners.

(EDIT: oh yeah.. I am also running none of the optional 3 side screws, on the side chassis pods)

Other than playing with my front camber links a little bit, that was all I did to the car, and it was AMAZING on the track... It performs best in the high speed sections of the track. In our fast sweeper at the straight exit, the RB6 was eating every other car alive.

In short, I think this car is the absolute best of all the chassis out. It's durable like the 22, it turns on a dime like the B4, and it's stable and planted like the RB5. It's only downside, is it's cost. But with what we spend in gas and tires.. .what's an extra $100 for the kit? Nothing... totally worth it, and it's totally gorgeous.
Well said and Congrats
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:46 PM   #1614
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I purchased one Pkg 10 pcs HPI86897 4.8x15mm long ball studs at my LHS, and the ball tips are flat? more room for grease, less friction is what i thought.
input from my specialized guys Oh that's all of you
ps they fit great and move freely.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:19 PM   #1615
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I'm building my diff, which idler gear do I use? Black or white? Why do they give you two?
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:39 PM   #1616
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Originally Posted by rcfiend View Post
I'm building my diff, which idler gear do I use? Black or white? Why do they give you two?
Use the black idler gear, it is stronger and easily outlasts the white one. It is the SP2 idler # KYOUMW513
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:40 PM   #1617
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Instructions say black for rear, step 33, #29... White great for mid configuration
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:44 PM   #1618
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Ok thx for the answers.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:59 PM   #1619
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Derry and Cpt. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us and congratulations on your results.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:26 PM   #1620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdnspecial View Post
Just came across this video, its hard to see but the car looks pretty good.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nOuxXJ9Sqw
That was my teammate josh mitchell last week,first run with the car still working on set up and he was very pleased,track is very tight so he will have another vid on a bigger layout soon..
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