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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-14-2012, 12:35 PM   #1531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Summers View Post
Thank you both
should they go in front of or behind, front or rear of arms?
Put them towards the rear that way if a little slop develops over time it's easier to access and remove the rear block to add some.
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:46 PM   #1532
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Amen!

Hooray!
i found some in my 2011 Avante organizer.

Thankyou again you are all Best!
ems

Last edited by Eric Summers; 10-14-2012 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:44 PM   #1533
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I have had two race and practice sessions with RB6. I have messed with front shock location and flipping rear arms and running #2 hole. I keep going back to Std rear arms hole #3 and #3 hole on front shock tower. I keep going back to this setup, most consistent and the fastest lap times.
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:58 PM   #1534
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does that change shock hieght?
ps your set up sheet is too small for this old mans eyes.
ems
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:45 PM   #1535
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This is my first K car build, luv the car bit I hope its a long time before we see a RB7. Question, Pg 13 section 4, part A, is this a tuning option? There is a .5mm and a 1.0mm thickness. I couldn't find a section for this on the setup sheet.
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:52 PM   #1536
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Not sure if this issue has been brought up yet because I don't want to read 103 pages. The steering Ackerman busted my first time out and shortened my maiden voyage! The part is on back order too! Just an FYI, the Associated Ackerman for B4.1 works fine. Just a temporary fix until parts become more available...
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Old 10-14-2012, 03:28 PM   #1537
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A couple of guys are using the B 4.1 rack at my track too. Ackerman gets messed and created a slight push, but a couple minor adjustments and I may even like the feel better than stock. I have a couple spares of stock but have stuck with the AE part for durability. The rest of the car is solid.
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:15 PM   #1538
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Car was dialed yesterday. I did mix up the shocks. Losi #55 pistons and 30 fr and 27.5 rear. Seemed to settle the car down a bit.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:04 PM   #1539
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After reading through the thread and hearing everyone's great success, I decided to get one! And running the RB5 WC right before this made it an obvious choice as well. Ran the car one pack last night and was instantly amazed at how well the car did! Some things about the kit setup that I would like to change but not much. The car seemed to have a little mid corner push, shouldn't be to hard to get rid of! The build went really smooth, and I expected nothing less. All in all it is a Kyosho!

A buddy of mine purchased his about a week before I did and his electronics layout is horrid. He butchered the body as well, trying the get the speedcontrol in. He told me it was impossible to mount the speedcontrol on the chassis. I knew it was possible as I have seen several Orion's fit perfectly!

Here mine is for now, plan on getting a body painted pretty soon! Awesome thread too guys, keep it up!
Pictures:


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Old 10-14-2012, 05:34 PM   #1540
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Has anyone tried AKA Hexlite wheels? I bought a set and they dont fit the rear, the hole is bigger and the nut hole is not deep enough you cant get the wheel nut on more than a few threads. Hope that makes sense? The fronts fit. To bad I figured it out after I glued the tires!!
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:45 PM   #1541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMKinWI View Post
Has anyone tried AKA Hexlite wheels? I bought a set and they dont fit the rear, the hole is bigger and the nut hole is not deep enough you cant get the wheel nut on more than a few threads. Hope that makes sense? The fronts fit. To bad I figured it out after I glued the tires!!

I have ran there wheel on the back of my RB5 WC! I used TSR serated nuts which are pretty thin nuts! Like you said, only threaded on a few threads! But I ran them without any problems. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:48 PM   #1542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMKinWI View Post
Has anyone tried AKA Hexlite wheels? I bought a set and they dont fit the rear, the hole is bigger and the nut hole is not deep enough you cant get the wheel nut on more than a few threads. Hope that makes sense? The fronts fit. To bad I figured it out after I glued the tires!!
I run them. The offset is the same, but the center piece is thicker. I run standard nuts, but you may want to run serrated or low profile to be safe.
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:04 PM   #1543
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I think you guys schooled me long enough "Time To Die"
Walking Dead starts soon "GO Niners"
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:12 PM   #1544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodneyB View Post
I have a couple spares of stock but have stuck with the AE part for durability. The rest of the car is solid.
Fist time I have ever heard the word AE and durable in the same sentence.
not a knock just ironic

Guys I'm thinking shorty pack is the best way to go with this thing, I know if your invested its hard. But if your starting from scratch the car is just amazing with a shorty pack.

First lap I ever turned with this car at West coast I ran a 20.6 on there current layout in 17.5 non-timing with pretty much the stock set up and haven't driven a buggy in 15 years.
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:33 PM   #1545
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Nice anyone done a conversion yet? From rb5? Have parts started flowing in say stormer amain etc?
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