just went up on the Tekno website. Who wants one?
100% Tekno RC Designed and Tested in Southern California. NOW SHIPPING!!!
Designed to be electric from the ground up – no nitro conversions here!
4mm CNC 7075 aluminum hard anodized lightened chassis.
Super narrow chassis – widest point is only 125mm (less than 5”) mudguard-to-mudguard.
Class leading front and rear clearance (short chassis overhang) provides better bump handling and jump landing.
Integrated battery tray/mud guard, battery is sunken into chassis for a super low COG.
Integrated electronics tray/mud guard for easy removal of electronics.
Spacious, enclosed, easy access radio box with integrated transponder mount.
Single pack configuration is better balanced, lighter weight, and makes battery changes easier. Battery tray accommodate 2x2s packs.
Adjustable chassis brace system for fine tuning flex with front, center, and rear braces.
Differentials and Drivetrain:
3 fluid filled adjustable super lightweight diffs.
Less rotating mass = better acceleration.
Straight center driveline for maximum efficiency and minimal wear.
CV driveshafts with captured pins on all 4 wheels.
Super smooth 16mm big bore shocks.
5mm CNC 7075 aluminum shock towers are standard.
Innovative cone piston design (not just tapered) provides varied compression and rebound rates.
Fully adjustable long travel suspension geometry maximizes stability and traction while providing superior cornering and on-power steering.
CNC threaded shock bodies, caps, cartridge caps, and adjustment nuts.
4mm hardened steel polished shafts.
Triple guide design for true consistent shaft action.
Options for vented cap, emulsion, or standard shock configurations.
Optional spring rates and spring kits are available.
Suspension and Steering:
Adjustable length rear arms to suit any track condition.
Adjustable front arm sweep and angle to make the car more aggressive (swept forward), or easier to drive (swept back).
Front and rear arms can be used on either side, rear hubs can be used on either side – less parts in your toolbox.
‘Narrow pivot’ steering posts provide ‘0 bump’ geometry with almost ’0 steering slop’.
Adjustable CNC 7075 hinge pin braces are standard.
4mm inner, 3.5mm outer hinge pins, polished for smooth action.
Adjustable Ackerman and bump-steer (bump in, 0 bump, bump out).
CNC aluminum Ackerman plate rides on 4 precision bearings.
LCG rod ends and lightweight turnbuckles are lowered by 5mm.
Front/rear sway bars are the same length = less parts in your toolbox.
Adjustable steering stops for precise steering travel settings.
2-piece CNC aluminum motor mount with precise dual clamping gear mesh adjustment.
Lightweight direct-to-diff mount design.
Use standard MOD 1 pinion, Tekno RC Traktion Drive or Elektri-Clutch.
Use motor brakes or mechanical brakes, the choice is yours.
Easily accommodates ‘Truggy’ or ‘Long’ can motors up to 78mm long.
Lightweight easily adjustable wing mount system.
High downforce wing included.
Easily adjust anti-squat, rear toe, front arm angle, front arm sweep, roll center, toe, camber, wheelbase, rear arm length, Ackerman, bump steer, suspension geometry out of the box..
Full set of option parts avaialble.
Extremely easy to work on with minimal screw count.
All metric hex hardware.
7.5lb RTR weight with common electronics and options.
Sub-7lb running weight easily achievable
Length: 435mm (without wing)
Width: 306-310*mm (*optional hubs required)
Weight: 3400g (7.5lb) (RTR weight equipped w/ Tekin RX8, 600g battery, rx, etc)
Diff Ratio: F/R – 10/40t, Center – 44t
Battery tray dimensions: 50x148mm (2x2s or 1x4s config)
Needed to complete:
2/3 channel radio/transmitter
1/8 Scale ESC and motor
High torque steering servo, optional brake servo
Pinion or Traktion Drive / Elektri-Clutch system
4-6s LiPo battery
1/8th scale buggy tires, wheels & CA glue
Paint for body
Hex tools (1.5, 2.0, 2.5mm), pliers, other tools
IMPORTANT INFORMATION AND UPDATES:
SERVO SAVER CENTERING
So we have looked into some of the servo saver inconsistencies and found a solution for the wandering. Please see attached image. The face highlighted in blue needs to be sanded down about 0.1mm. The flashing from the mold prevents the servo saver from seating 100%. After doing this and tightening the spring down, it will hold as intended.
We'll look into a fix for this in the future, but it requires a mold change so it won't be the fastest fix ever. What is outlined above works great though.
Diff Gasket Tip
. The gasket fits really snug in the ring gears of the front and rear diffs and the holes in the gasket are precisely the size of the holes in the ring gear. So, install the gasket in the ring gear at an angle and get the first hole aligned perfectly before working the rest of the gasket in. You can smear a little bit of black grease on both sides of the gasket first. Once the gasket is fully seated, you can not turn it within the ring gear.
Outer Diff Shims Tip.
Getting the diff in the housings with one shim on each side can be challenging. They are delicate, thin, and have nothing to keep them in place while you try to install the diff. It's very easy to buckle/bend one or miss getting it in the housing. What you can do to make installation easier is to cut a .5mm x 30-40 degree chamfer on the inside of each of the four corners of the bearing lip of each diff housing halve (8 total for front diff, 8 total for rear diff). [See pic below] This allows a bit of alignment assistance to get the diff installed without damaging the shims.
I also found this chart comparing Losi 8ight and Hot Bodies D8 springs, both of which fit Tekno shocks.
I made a chart of the Kyosho springs.
Originally Posted by SMR 510RR
Alright guys, I got tired of referring to 3 different spring charts to compare different brands so I compiled all of them and sorted them by spring rate. Please feel free to pass this along.
It will also print nicely on a 8.5x11 piece of paper to keep in your track bag for quick reference while at the track. Also, if anyone wants any other springs added (I think I got most of the popular ones) please let me know and if you find any errors please let me know.
Avid RC now makes a bearing kit.
The kit comes with 450cSt front and 350cSt rear shock oils. This translates to Losi 35 and Associated 37.5 for the front, Losi 27.5 and Associated 30 for the rear. If you're switching to any other companies oils, starting within 5 wt (or 50cSt) of those should be fine for your first runs. Use that as a starting point and tune from there.
These recommendations are based on 4s lipo setups and are guidelines only. If you're switching to this vehicle from another that you had achieved a speed you liked I highly recommend visiting this site -http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html
, inputting your old/current vehicles information, recording that data, then input the EB48 info and adjust the pinion gear until you are close to your original top speed.
Small track (50-100 ft straight)
1600-1800 kv 15-18 tooth pinion
1800-2000 kv 14-16 tooth pinion
2000-2200 kv 13-15 tooth pinion
Medium track (100-150 ft straight)
1600-1800 kv 18-20 tooth pinion
1800-2000 kv 17-19 tooth pinion
2000-2200 kv 16-18 tooth pinion
Large track (150-200 ft straight)
1600-1800 kv 19-21 tooth pinion
1800-2000 kv 18-20 tooth pinion
2000-2200 kv 17-19 tooth pinion
INNER HINGE PIN ADJUSTMENTS
The EB48 has adjustable hinge pin holders that allow users to fine tune their truck for different tracks, conditions, or driving styles.
The front outer adjusts the amount of front arm "sweep" in 0.5 degree increments from 1 degree forward to 1 degree back.
The front inner adjusts the amount of arm kick-up in 0.5 degree increments from 10 degrees up to 12 degrees. This in turn also adjusts your total caster angle from 20-22 degrees.
Looking at the picture, the top option is 10 and 20 degrees (kick-up and total caster) and the bottom is 12 and 22 degrees.
The rear outer adjusts your toe angle in 0.5 degree increments from 1 degree up to 3 degrees using the standard holder and 2.5 degrees up to 4.5 degrees using the +1.5 holder (now standard on the EB48.2)
The rear inner adjust anti squat angle in 0.5 degree increments from 1 degree up to 3 degrees.
The purpose of sweeping the arm forward or backward is mostly to sweep the driveshafts forward or backward. When the driveshafts are angled it changes how the car reacts on and off power. (This goes for the rear driveshafts as well.)
When the driveshafts are swept forwards, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase your off-power steering.
When the driveshafts are swept backwards, the stub axles are now being twisted up, lifting the tires and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to sweeping the arms back is jump landing. With the arms back, the car kind of "sucks" itself to the ground. It settles much faster and allows you to get on the throttle immediately. During breaking and off throttle the chassis will stay a little flatter front to back and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner.
You can adjust the rear sweep by changing the wheelbase.
It's possible to have toe in on the rear and have the axles swept backwards (not on our car, I'm just making a generalization), but it doesn't handle well. It will squat really hard on acceleration and the nose will dip under braking. If any of you have ever driven a Revo with the long wheelbase rear arms you know what I'm talking about
APE-RC makes a stainless steel skid-plate. Here's a link
to his online store.
T-Bone Racing makes several bumpers/skids in different sizes for the front and rear of the buggy.
Here's a link
to the online store
DE-Racing's rear skid plate
LEADFINGER Racing's rear stainless steel skid plate
LIST OF COMPATIBLE ALUMINUM SERVO HORNS:
OTHER STEERING UPGRADES
APE-RC makes a stainless steel ackermann plate.
It's available here.
Tekno makes an aluminum ackermann plate.
Available direct, your LHS, or your favorite online store.
APE-RC has a great shock tool set that can be purchased here.
CAMBER LINK INFO
The camber links need a 4mm turnbuckle wrench for adjustment. We've found that some wrenches work exceptionally well.-
-The Losi stamped steel wrench (the one included with the 22 series of vehicles)
-The Hudy wrench
Optional Titanium links can be found at Lunsford-
Lunsford 5x55mm Titanium Turnbuckle
Lunsford 5x45mm Titanium Turnbuckle
Lunsford 5x50mm Titanium Turnbuckle
Lunsford 4x55mm Titanium Turnbuckle
Durango Makes aluminum links that can fit-
A note about the Durango links, on the buggy, 5x64 works on both front and rear links unless you run them really short (this is more of an issue on the front then the rear). The front truck camber links are already shorter so I think only the 5x48's will fit. The rear camber links are the same as the buggy's so a 5x64 should fit, but if you're running a shorter link you may either have to cut it down or run the 5x48. The 4x60 fit the steering links on both the truck and buggy.
Lightweight parts and chassis modding
Several manufacturers now make carbon fiber towers for the SCT410 and EB48.
-SNR Graphite makes front and rear towers as well as a center diff top plate. http://www.snrgraphite.com/index.php...0f722349d96255
-Xtreme Racing makes, towers, diff braces, and mudguards. http://www.xtremercracing.com/SCT410.cfm
-Tekno RC makes front http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5028c...bon-fiber-5mm/
and rear http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5029c...bon-fiber-4mm/
Pro-Line - Phantom
JConcepts - Finnisher
Avid - FTW Exabyte
The stock SCT chassis is stamped 4mm 7075 black anodized aluminum with a minimum amount of cutouts.
The stock EB48 chassis is milled 7075 hard anodized aluminum with a number of cutouts. It decreases weight, increases flex, and maintains stock hole locations and chassis thickness.
M2CRacing released 2 new chassis-
M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our Tekno Electric
chassis for the 1/8 scale and sct410.
We will have 2 models. The standard design and the modded model which
will move the battery tray back 10 mm.
These chassis are made using 1/8 inch(3.25mm) thick 7075 aircraft grade materials and clear anodized.
use of the material greatly increases the overall life of the chassis.
we have tested and tweeked these chassis to provide the racers a top notch chassis that will perform very well on all surfaces.
This model is made for the tracks with a high wear situations like the tracks we have out West, up north and in Canada
It is important to note that these skid plates fit flush to the bottom of the chassis and will not effect the droop settings and cause you to
scrub speed on the landings.
We have adopted this model so that if you wish you can cut off the front bumper to help the vehicle not to get upset on landings
and increase ground clearance.
front and rear skid plates.
It is advised you replace the skid plate when the edge of the skid plate wears down to 1 mm.
This will make the chassis last much longer.
hardened droop stops to prevent chassis wear and droop changes.
m2c 6501 (front and rear skid plate)
m2c 6502 (front rear skid plate)
And be sure to take advantage of our 20% off discount coupon
just copy and paste in the coupon box as you check out.
Several people are modding their battery tray to move the battery back to the front of the brake servo mount. Here's an example by sramos.
Heres the jist of what i did. the rubber that goes along the side of battery tray is from a rubber pipe couple i picked home from home depot and cut off and glued in. put a big enough foam in rear to keep well away from diff.
A track with loose conditions is where you'll see the biggest benefit of running an overdrive setup. To achieve this you will need to run the truggy ring and pinion in the rear of the buggy.
You have to use both
the pinion and ring gear from the truggy. The truggy's ring gear has a different offset to mate up with the smaller 9t pinion gear.
I built up a whole truggy diff so that I could quickly swap out the diff and pinion gear at the track. It's more expensive that way but the time it saves you at the track is worth it.
For those that are thinking of trying the truggy gears in the rear, here's a couple of tips/things to be aware of -
-You'll need to go up 1 tooth on your pinion gear or you'll lose a noticeable amount of top speed.
-You may want to strongly consider going up in your center diff oil if you're running 5k or less.
-Be aware that your buggy will jump with more of a "nose up attitude" then before.
-Your buggy will now have a slight drag brake off-power coming from the rear end.
ALUMINUM SCREW LISTING
I just made a list of all the screws, washers and nuts needed to convert a Tekno ride over to all aluminum screws. I listed the stock replacement Tekno screw part number first with details beside each. Only screws I did not list for an aluminum swap are the diff screws holding the ring/spur on to the diff. That's a high load bearing screw and steel is a better choice there.
Tekno Screw List:
Tekno #1523 3x10mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1529 3x20mm Cap Head 20
Tekno #1341 4x6mm Flat Head 6
Tekno #1525 3x14mm Cap Head 18
Tekno #1524 3x12mm Cap Head 10
Tekno #1333 3x40mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1327 3x16mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1443 4x10mm Button Head 11
Tekno #1522 3x8mm Cap Head 9
Tekno #1445 4x14mm Button Head 6
Tekno #1447 4x16mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1401 3x6mm Button Head 8
Tekno #1448 4x18mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1343 4x10mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1322 3x8mm Flat Head 11
Tekno #1344 4x12mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1346 4x15mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1325 3x14mm Flat Head 3
Tekno #1407 3x16mm Button Head 1
3x8mm Washer 20
4x9mm Washer 2
3mm Locknuts 20
3mm Flanged Locknuts 8
Part list for all the Tekno screws cross referenced over to blue aluminum at Fastenerexpress.com:
Only thing not listed are the washers.
M3 x .5 x 8mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30968
M3 x .5 x 12mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30974
M3 x .5 x 20mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30989
M3 x .5 x 16mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30671
M3 x .5 x 6mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30750
M3 x .5 x 10mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30756
M3 x .5 x 16mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30765
M4 x .7 x 10mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30604
M4 x .7 x 14mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30610
M4 x .7 x 16mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30613
M4 x .7 x 18mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized 25 Pieces
Item Number: 30622
M4 x .7 x 10mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30717
M4 x .7 x 12mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30720
M4 x .7 x 14mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30723
M4 x .7 x 6mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30711
3mm Hex Lock Nut Aluminum,Low Profile 5.5mm Hex - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30147
M3 x .5 x 14mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30977
M3 x .4 x 6mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30646
M3 x .5 x 14mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 90193
Total with all screws having a count of 25 is $162.58
I will keep updating it as information becomes available. Thanks.