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Old 04-19-2012, 10:52 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Less throttle.

There are 2 things working against you when you turn.

#1 - Forward motion. If you don't slowdown enough before the turn, then your forward momentum will keep you going... well, forward.

#2 - Weight transfer. Whenever you stab/squeeze/etc. the throttle, the rear of the vehicle squats. This transfers more weight to the rear to help with forward acceleration. Unfortunately, this is at the expense of taking weight off of the front end of the truck.

Start with braking before the turn, and trying to carry as much momentium as you can. Power out of the turn.

Slow in, fast out.
Thanks and make perfect sense. Would added weight in the front help also?

I am pretty good at using my brake to slide my rear around but I loose a lot of power and start from a dead stop heading into my jumps.

Would stiffer springs help in the rear also?
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:34 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Races aren't won down the straight. Gear by temp, and make sure you've got enough oomph to clear your biggest jump.

The rest of the setup is driver and vehicle dependent. What are you running?
+ a billion Best tip
Originally Posted by hanker71
turn your end bell timing up.that will give you a little extra power.then focus on not losing forward momentum!and secondly ,consistancy rules the day!and lastly in 17.5 racing go to track and gear your truck as tall as you can so after 5-6 mins its at 160!dont gear it so you can make practice runs that are 18-20 then reach 160!
I spent a whole race day and practice day experimenting with this.
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:10 AM
  #33  
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would a higher C rated battery really make a difference?
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:21 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by hondafixer
would a higher C rated battery really make a difference?
This is the common understanding. I don't know as I've never used a lipo under 60C.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:22 AM
  #35  
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Only in the punch, but not in top speed. Low C or high C, it really doesn't matter to me. I just want a battery that will be consistent throughout the run. You can really feel when older lipos start to fall off towards the end of the run.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:43 AM
  #36  
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got it...im sure ill have more questions..lol
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:00 PM
  #37  
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Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I'm looking to switch over to 17.5 blinky in a xxx-sct. Running an RS Pro and Tekin 17.5, are there any setup tips that haven't been mentioned here? I realize momentum is king and consistancy wins races, but a fast truck doesn't hurt.

I am new to the hobby, so this class forces you to learn to drive at a slower speed, but still find speed where you can. Eventually I hope to move up in classes, but for now, need to do what I can to make the truck better than the driver.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
Increasing endbell timing will give you more top end, which really isn't what we need at RCHR.

There's nothing wrong with the Blitz. If you're around today, I don't mind giving you a hand with it.
Endbell timing determines where you get max torque in the rpm range of the motor. Tall gearing=low endbell. Short gearing=high endbell. Get a 12.5 mm high torque rotor and set the truck up so it's responsive but EASY TO DRIVE. If you have to make corrections to keep it going the right way you're losing time and scrubbing speed. Corner speed and stability are extremely important, but between every corner is a drag race. Ceramic bearings help too, or you can take all the grease out of the bearings and use light bearing oil. You'd be amazed what a difference it makes but that's more advanced stuff. Smooth driving and practice practice practice. Hit the same spots at the same speed every lap.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:15 AM
  #39  
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So no one runs timing on the esc? Allowed?
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Stanfsu
So no one runs timing on the esc? Allowed?
Most 17.5 classes are Blinky - no timing/boost allowed on the ESC
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