Experienced Racers, What's Best in hindsight?
03-31-2012, 04:38 PM
#61
4x4 SCT has proven to be the most enjoyable for me. It's a good combination of fast, durable, and good handling. I tried 2wd but it was slow and didn't handle the way I liked. Tried 2wd buggy but those things break often and don't always do so well on our track meant for 1/8. The 4x4 was the best of all, for me. Even liked it better than 1/8 because of the cost and the fact that I didn't like nitro as much.
03-31-2012, 04:40 PM
#62
I think if you have the "right" equipment to begin with, you cant fault the equipment, only the driver. If you run equipment mediocre to what everyone else runs, and don't finish best, you will always say "well that guy was running a Mugen, I only have an Ofna" does that make sense?
03-31-2012, 04:42 PM
#63
Agree with David here. If buggies are what grabs your attention the most, then that's what you should be driving. You'll spend twice as much money purchasing everything you need for a class you're so-so on and then purchasing what you wanted all along.
You don't strike me as having a kamikaze type persona. If you take it easy and learn throttle and steering control before you try and blast around the track at full speed, you'd be pleasantly surprised at just how durable a 1/10 buggy really is. They're certainly not made of glass, but if you clip a pipe at 30mph, yes, you will break a $3.00 arm ($5.95/pair from a-main). The cost of repair won't kill you. Also, don't think SCT are completely bulletproof, they break just like everything else in RC.
You need to buy what puts the biggest smile on your face. Class and opinions be damned. The whole point of this hobby is to release stress and have a good time. Every vehicle has a learning curve. Just practice more.
You don't strike me as having a kamikaze type persona. If you take it easy and learn throttle and steering control before you try and blast around the track at full speed, you'd be pleasantly surprised at just how durable a 1/10 buggy really is. They're certainly not made of glass, but if you clip a pipe at 30mph, yes, you will break a $3.00 arm ($5.95/pair from a-main). The cost of repair won't kill you. Also, don't think SCT are completely bulletproof, they break just like everything else in RC.
You need to buy what puts the biggest smile on your face. Class and opinions be damned. The whole point of this hobby is to release stress and have a good time. Every vehicle has a learning curve. Just practice more.
GREAT POINTS, thank you. The couple times I've taken my avatar car to sdrc I've dialed the epa way down to just below spinning and just run around the middle of the track to learn the lines. Slowly building up speed until I started getting outta shape, then eased back. Then when I bash, I try to set up track layouts and run laps, jumping with homemade ramps. Here is a vid of a recent practice day...
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/sHVn9W6D5hk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
03-31-2012, 04:55 PM
#64
03-31-2012, 04:57 PM
#65
4x4 SCT has proven to be the most enjoyable for me. It's a good combination of fast, durable, and good handling. I tried 2wd but it was slow and didn't handle the way I liked. Tried 2wd buggy but those things break often and don't always do so well on our track meant for 1/8. The 4x4 was the best of all, for me. Even liked it better than 1/8 because of the cost and the fact that I didn't like nitro as much.
03-31-2012, 04:58 PM
#66
I think if you have the "right" equipment to begin with, you cant fault the equipment, only the driver. If you run equipment mediocre to what everyone else runs, and don't finish best, you will always say "well that guy was running a Mugen, I only have an Ofna" does that make sense?
does "RIGHT'' mean "EXPENSIVE"?
03-31-2012, 05:16 PM
#67
I'm a 20 year vet and only race...
Number 1: The single most prestigious class in RC is 1/10th 2whl mod buggy bar none. If you're looking at this as more than just a casual hobby but more so for the sport/high end racing side... This is the ONLY class that matter.
Being the fastest in short course 2whl or 4 whl is like being the smartest retard...
Number 1: The single most prestigious class in RC is 1/10th 2whl mod buggy bar none. If you're looking at this as more than just a casual hobby but more so for the sport/high end racing side... This is the ONLY class that matter.
Being the fastest in short course 2whl or 4 whl is like being the smartest retard...
03-31-2012, 05:41 PM
#68
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
03-31-2012, 05:44 PM
#69
Tech Master
Not true, every class has it's fair share of "hardcore raceholes." Just nip it in the bud when it happens.
03-31-2012, 06:03 PM
#70
03-31-2012, 06:14 PM
#71
Also, don't buy in to the buggy guys are elitist jerks, and that buggies are fragile. I bought my 22 last year when I got back in to the hobby, and let me tell you, this thing is a tank. In over a year of racing, including a very harsh first few months, I have only broken three things on it. A rear a arm, a front spindle, and a rear camber block. This was after the car had taken several full speed tumbles down the straight away and crashed in to a wall of boards. This car has been awsomely durable.
03-31-2012, 06:22 PM
#72
Here is your answer:
Ok, when you have a URL like this
http://youtu.be/sHVn9W6D5hk
You take the last part of it sHVn9W6D5hk
and put it between YouTube tags like this.
| + YouTube Video | |
03-31-2012, 06:24 PM
#73
Right definitely does not mean the most expensive. But, you don't want quality, and that doesn't mean the most expensive either. I race 17.5 buggy, no ESC timing or boost allowed. That really cuts down on how much you need to spend on an ESC. I run an old school Novak GTB in my buggy. That ESC is probably 5 or 6 years old and works like a champ, and i bought it used for $40. I'm consistently in the top 5 and sometimes the top 3. In a stock type class, your driving skill needs to be top notch, and your electronics don't have to be the latest and greatest flavor of the week.
When you're talking spec type racing like that, it's designed for the electronics to be equal and not cost an arm and a leg. A guy can get a great setup for spec class, brand new, for around $150 for the motor and ESC.
I would highly recommend starting in a spec class if you're first getting in to racing. Going fast with a super crazy mod motor is fun, but it is somewhat counterproductive. Fast motors don't always = fast laps. For beginers fast motors usually = more times in the pipe, more time on your lid and more broken parts. And then that all leads to frustration and then leaving the hobby with a sour taste in your mouth.
When you're talking spec type racing like that, it's designed for the electronics to be equal and not cost an arm and a leg. A guy can get a great setup for spec class, brand new, for around $150 for the motor and ESC.
I would highly recommend starting in a spec class if you're first getting in to racing. Going fast with a super crazy mod motor is fun, but it is somewhat counterproductive. Fast motors don't always = fast laps. For beginers fast motors usually = more times in the pipe, more time on your lid and more broken parts. And then that all leads to frustration and then leaving the hobby with a sour taste in your mouth.
03-31-2012, 06:26 PM
#74
Not at all. More and more tracks are setting rules for stock that require zero speed control timing (you'll hear the term "blinky"). Take out the need for that tech and you are competitive with a Novak Havoc/17.5 setup that's cheap and reliable. When someone points out that there have been complaints about Novak, consider that they are by far the majority out there and the Havoc being inexpensive, finds itself in beginner's cars the most. Most numbers in the field + lots of beginners and bashers = more user complaints. They are as reliable as any speed control on the market provided you accept the motor limits and don't wail on the throttle when the car is stuck somewhere.
As for the newest/latest car thing? Ignore it. I run a Losi XXX and it runs every bit as well as any current car. It'd be 1.5 sec. a lap faster if the nut behind the wheel were't loose.
03-31-2012, 06:32 PM
#75
Dakar Dad, thanks, I fixed the pm problem...confusing with the check box for no...anywaym shot #1
woo hoo. Thanks!
| + YouTube Video | |
woo hoo. Thanks!