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Old 09-15-2014, 08:31 AM   #946
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I just picked up a DEST210R in trade, looking forward to getting it. A few friends have ST's and were hoping to revive the ST class at our track.
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Old 09-15-2014, 09:18 AM   #947
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I just picked up a DEST210R in trade, looking forward to getting it. A few friends have ST's and were hoping to revive the ST class at our track.
I miss my Dest210!
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Old 09-16-2014, 06:51 AM   #948
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I got the DEST roller yesterday and it looks pretty good, it's already setup for mid motor, which works great for indoor the track I will be running at. It's just a roller, so I need to figure out what elecronics I'll be using.
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Old 09-22-2014, 07:01 PM   #949
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Does anybody have an opinion on whether the stock plastic steering cranks are adequate? When I watched Jang's review of the RTR truck, he replaced the servo and servo saver, and still wasn't happy with the steering, and commented that the cranks were flexing. After he replaced those with Exotek pieces he seemed satisfied. I'm still building my kit, but the stock cranks appear to be pretty stiff and not prone to flex. Does the RTR come with different pieces, or does the kit have the same pieces that Jang was so unhappy with?
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Old 09-22-2014, 07:19 PM   #950
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i think they made a change to them. and never had a problem with the kit ones. knock on wood. had mine since january. it does not seem to flex much either.

dont forget to boil the rear arms for a few minutes.
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Old 09-22-2014, 09:04 PM   #951
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Does anybody have an opinion on whether the stock plastic steering cranks are adequate? When I watched Jang's review of the RTR truck, he replaced the servo and servo saver, and still wasn't happy with the steering, and commented that the cranks were flexing. After he replaced those with Exotek pieces he seemed satisfied. I'm still building my kit, but the stock cranks appear to be pretty stiff and not prone to flex. Does the RTR come with different pieces, or does the kit have the same pieces that Jang was so unhappy with?
The steering cranks are fine. I watched that video and Jang's issues were the RTR servo and the servo saver. He replaced the cranks because he felt there was too much play in them, not flex.
Check out this video of Jorn running the kit at the Cactus Classis this year, wouldn't say there is an issue with them https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwLrXEnkHZY
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Old 09-23-2014, 05:56 AM   #952
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dont forget to boil the rear arms for a few minutes.
Why the rear arms? I don't recall reading about any particular issues with the arms being fragile, but it's entirely possible that I zoned out over some of the 60+ pages of the thread!
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Old 09-23-2014, 06:43 AM   #953
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not that they are fragile. they are too hard. I have broke a couple . always when its colder out. cold weather and you will snap em. Yeah its all over the desc210 thread. same arms. front ones don't break. just the rears.

one of the very few weak areas I found.

and I bought the sumo brace for the trans. if you break off a camber link on the inside rear you have to change the whole trans case(pain in the butt) so the brace was cheap insurance.

other than the arms I don't recall breaking anything besides a rear rear suspension mount. The ST is pretty solid with type b parts. more solid than the t4.1 I had.

also you can use the associated slipper pads if you want. I pefer them cause they are a little thicker but Durango ones work fine.

also if you prefer using ball diff you can get longer outdrives for free so the axles fit in there further. I use gear diff so its not a issue for me since they are longer.
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Old 09-23-2014, 07:47 AM   #954
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That reminds me, I should plan on picking up a gear diff. Since this is going to be primarily a basher for the foreseeable future, I think I'll be better off with the gear diff.

Thanks for the info on the arms. It's a bummer that I just put them together a couple nights ago. I guess I get to take them apart again.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:06 AM   #955
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I brought mine to a rolling boil then dropped mine in about four minutes.

if your gonna bash especially go ahead and sheet rock tape and shoe goo the body in the stress areas. the body is not available to buy(except the rtr one). it will help it last longer.

the kit body is supposed to be in stock at tower at the end of the month and I will get one as soon as it becomes available.

im sure you can modify the mounts to use another body but I don't want to. lol
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:45 AM   #956
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I brought mine to a rolling boil then dropped mine in about four minutes.

if your gonna bash especially go ahead and sheet rock tape and shoe goo the body in the stress areas. the body is not available to buy(except the rtr one). it will help it last longer.

the kit body is supposed to be in stock at tower at the end of the month and I will get one as soon as it becomes available.

im sure you can modify the mounts to use another body but I don't want to. lol
Yeah, the first thing I do when I get the kit together is to start figuring out what it takes to fit a different body.
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Old 09-25-2014, 06:06 AM   #957
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Anybody have a part number for the gear diff?

Also, does this look right? The plastic cover hits the spur and pinion gear.



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Old 09-25-2014, 06:14 AM   #958
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no its not right. the transmission is assembled wrong or the spacers?



TD210034 is the gear diff number. and you want to use different o rings in the diff for less leakage if you use oil instead of grease.

TD330099 are the o rings.
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Old 09-25-2014, 06:20 AM   #959
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Yeah, one of the plates is lined up wrong for sure.

Try removing the entire slipper assembly and just put on the slipper plates/pads/spur. Even without the slipper bolt you should see it get a lot closer that that pic.

Last edited by shagino; 09-25-2014 at 07:49 AM. Reason: Typo
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Old 09-25-2014, 06:25 AM   #960
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also if you use oil in your gear diff. realize it is much smaller so you have to use thicker oil to get the same diff action that you would in say a t4. use around 5K to get same results as 3k normally. I think I use 5 in the st.

Edit: I changed weights I use after some tought
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