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Old 07-22-2013, 03:41 PM   #661
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Default need help! :(

hey guys, so i just got my dest210 built and raced it for the first time on friday. i was having a problem with the front tires tho.

1. one of the hubs on the car, when tire is on and tightened down, it wont free spin for a long time, might do 3 turns in a circle and stop like it has a drag brake. not sure if thats the bearings or something binding up.

2. for some reason, when i tightened the other side that does free spin quite nicely, id go about 2 minutes, and the wheel nut will loosen and eventually fall off. so i put a few spacers between the rim hex and the hex on the hub, and it solved the issue but is a hassle to have those when i shouldnt.

im not new to rc, but im just not sure whats going on here. if anyone has had this problem and knows an answer, feel free to comment on here or pm me. any help is appreciated. thanks for the read.
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Old 07-22-2013, 04:10 PM   #662
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Originally Posted by xxx-ntad2 racer View Post
hey guys, so i just got my dest210 built and raced it for the first time on friday. i was having a problem with the front tires tho.

1. one of the hubs on the car, when tire is on and tightened down, it wont free spin for a long time, might do 3 turns in a circle and stop like it has a drag brake. not sure if thats the bearings or something binding up.

2. for some reason, when i tightened the other side that does free spin quite nicely, id go about 2 minutes, and the wheel nut will loosen and eventually fall off. so i put a few spacers between the rim hex and the hex on the hub, and it solved the issue but is a hassle to have those when i shouldnt.

im not new to rc, but im just not sure whats going on here. if anyone has had this problem and knows an answer, feel free to comment on here or pm me. any help is appreciated. thanks for the read.
Check out the first post in the DESC210 thread. Shimming between the bearings to create a crush tube should fix your problems
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Old 07-22-2013, 04:45 PM   #663
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Check out the first post in the DESC210 thread. Shimming between the bearings to create a crush tube should fix your problems
Shimming Front Hubs:
-The front hubs can bind up due to a lack of a crush tube between the bearings. Parts needed to make a crush tube are:
Team Durango Wheel Distance Bushing- http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCCNY&P=Z
Kyosho 5x7mm Shim Set - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5x7mm-Shim-Set
Use one TD wheel distance bushing and .6mm of shims between the bearings in the front hubs to allow the wheels nuts to be tightened while having smooth, bind free wheels.

so you put a td wheel distance bushing and shims between the bearings in the hub? so it would go bearing~shim~td bushing~shim~bearing. would this be correct??
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Old 07-22-2013, 05:28 PM   #664
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Originally Posted by xxx-ntad2 racer View Post
Shimming Front Hubs:
-The front hubs can bind up due to a lack of a crush tube between the bearings. Parts needed to make a crush tube are:
Team Durango Wheel Distance Bushing- http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCCNY&P=Z
Kyosho 5x7mm Shim Set - http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5x7mm-Shim-Set
Use one TD wheel distance bushing and .6mm of shims between the bearings in the front hubs to allow the wheels nuts to be tightened while having smooth, bind free wheels.

so you put a td wheel distance bushing and shims between the bearings in the hub? so it would go bearing~shim~td bushing~shim~bearing. would this be correct??
Yes, that's correct.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:46 PM   #665
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Tower Hobbies has the correct shims as well. I just built mine up, and now it spins freely. I am also adding the aluminum hexes to permanently fix this problem. I had a wheel come off in the main on the last lap, and hobbled around on three wheels for a second place. The left front wheel seems to be the biggest culprit.
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:50 AM   #666
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I've got a NIB DESC210 as a spare and would to build a DEST210...

Other than the Chassis, Wheels and body is everything else the same?

Thanks
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:00 AM   #667
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I've got a NIB DESC210 as a spare and would to build a DEST210...

Other than the Chassis, Wheels and body is everything else the same?

Thanks
You need body mounts, front axles, and the front axle spacers as well. We used 2 of the distance bushings listed above to replace the plastic spacers given in the kit.
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:51 AM   #668
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Sorry wrong thread.

Last edited by nutz4rcyktw; 08-03-2013 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:33 AM   #669
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Has anyone tried using other cab forward bodies on these ?? If so what one and what's gotta be done to make them work
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:55 AM   #670
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Anyone looking for an aluminum chassis, decided to sell my brand new custom machined chassis. Had planned on running truck when I had it made, but the class is not as deep as I had hoped it would get.
Brand new aluminum DEST210 chassis
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:24 PM   #671
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Anyone looking for an aluminum chassis, decided to sell my brand new custom machined chassis. Had planned on running truck when I had it made, but the class is not as deep as I had hoped it would get.
Brand new aluminum DEST210 chassis
Looks awesome. If I wasn't happy with my type B, I'd buy it.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:51 PM   #672
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Still loving this truck!! Our track was awesome the other night and I finally got into the 21 second bracket for laptimes in qualifying (fastest laps are usually low 21s for 2WD stuff and upper 20s for 4WD).

In the main event last Friday night I was REALLY pushing the truck, trying to get some consistent 21 second laps. In doing so I almost lapped the field twice, however I hit our big double sideways and landed directly on the front wheel on the upside of the landing. Needless to say I popped a ballcup on the steering linkage. I drove it around and had someone look at it...the steering link was completely missing!! There was only 3 minutes left, so I drove it anyway. I had to nail the brakes at every turn and creep around the turn to stay on track. I lucked out, and managed to still win, but by a mere 8 seconds over 2nd place, who had unlapped himself twice.

This was only the 3rd time I've had a ballcup pop, and it was a pretty bad hit, one that probably should have popped one.

I'm really hoping some guys run these in the winter, we are getting a few guys each week, it would be nice to see a full main.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:19 PM   #673
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Is there a kit of parts I need to convert to the type B chassis?
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:56 PM   #674
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Is there a kit of parts I need to convert to the type B chassis?
To convert to the Type B chassis, you will need the new suspension mounts TD330578 and the motor guard(if running rear motor) TD320227.
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:13 AM   #675
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I converted to a type B chassis. Let a friend who hasn't driven RC much drive it and he tore the hinge pin out on the first battery pack. I replaced it with my old aluminum RR hanger after that.

I'm sure a lot of it had to do with him being a rookie driving but I think the open wheels add to the leverage that a crash can have. On my DESC210, no problems with the plastic.
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