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Old 05-02-2013, 09:46 PM   #586
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I just built the ball diff, I'm used to AE and tlr but is it suppose to feel tighter? Also is the diff nut suppose to stick out halfway into outdrives?
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:26 AM   #587
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I'm not sure what you mean by sticking out... but check this article out. This is how I build mine and they last a long time.

Durango Ball Diff Build
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:53 AM   #588
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Hi,

I just saw that there are currently very low prices for the RTR models.

Can you please tell me the difference between the RTR DEST210 and the kit one?

Is it only the gear diff??

Thanks!!
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:40 PM   #589
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Originally Posted by B0tt0mline View Post
Hi,

I just saw that there are currently very low prices for the RTR models.

Can you please tell me the difference between the RTR DEST210 and the kit one?

Is it only the gear diff??

Thanks!!
Gear diff/No mid motor parts/electronics.

Personally I think the kit plus bonus parts is the better deal. The radio isn't great and the speedo is limited.
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:54 PM   #590
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Get to run my Durango for first time tomorrow I ran stock piston setup
1.2 6 front,went 35weight
1.3 6 rear, went 30 weight
Rear hinge pin at 3deg 0 anti squat
Toe in 2.5
Front 30deg castor I belive
--does this seem like a good starting point?
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Old 05-05-2013, 05:13 AM   #591
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Originally Posted by Mxer59 View Post
Get to run my Durango for first time tomorrow I ran stock piston setup
1.2 6 front,went 35weight
1.3 6 rear, went 30 weight
Rear hinge pin at 3deg 0 anti squat
Toe in 2.5
Front 30deg castor I belive
--does this seem like a good starting point?
I used those pistons and weights on my truck and they were REALLY soft. The truck handled awesome, but would slap the chassis on jump landings. I think the popular setup is to drill some of the blank pistons at 1.6mm x2 and use those same oils. I am going to try this setup next weekend. Other than that I pretty much ran the stock setup (which I'm pretty sure is what you listed), and it was on rails. This past Friday night I was laying down laps like I never have before, it was so much freakin' fun! Our track is hard-packed , but not blue groove. I was running Jconcepts Flip-outs on it and it was so easy to drive, and drive HARD. I am so loving this truck!!
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Old 05-05-2013, 05:45 AM   #592
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Originally Posted by lappdawg27 View Post
I think the popular setup is to drill some of the blank pistons at 1.6mm x2 and use those same oils.
Here's what I'm using:
F: 2x1.6 37.5 Losi
R: 2x1.7 35 Losi
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Old 05-05-2013, 05:56 AM   #593
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Has anyone tried a gear diff in these? I ask because on full throttle it gets sideways real quick. I also need a servo horn 25t and want to know what to get and where.
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:01 AM   #594
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Originally Posted by lappdawg27 View Post
I used those pistons and weights on my truck and they were REALLY soft. The truck handled awesome, but would slap the chassis on jump landings. I think the popular setup is to drill some of the blank pistons at 1.6mm x2 and use those same oils. I am going to try this setup next weekend. Other than that I pretty much ran the stock setup (which I'm pretty sure is what you listed), and it was on rails. This past Friday night I was laying down laps like I never have before, it was so much freakin' fun! Our track is hard-packed , but not blue groove. I was running Jconcepts Flip-outs on it and it was so easy to drive, and drive HARD. I am so loving this truck!!
If you can't find any drills bits to drill out the pistons, you can always glue toothpicks into the existing holes. That's what I did with my dex210 (which had the same problem) and it worked out great.

Hopefully I'll get some time to race at Pitstop with you and Butch sometime soon. My t3 is just sitting around waiting to be raced.
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:13 AM   #595
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If you can't find any drills bits to drill out the pistons, you can always glue toothpicks into the existing holes. That's what I did with my dex210 (which had the same problem) and it worked out great.

Hopefully I'll get some time to race at Pitstop with you and Butch sometime soon. My t3 is just sitting around waiting to be raced.
Yeah we were wondering where you were at! Butch and I are trying pretty hard to get the class going. Jeremy has a T3 also and is thinking about swapping electronics out of his buggy so he can run with us. Spa Jim is getting a new T4.1 in a trade (he is tired of 4x4 SC). Race director Mike is also thinking about getting a Durango RTR. I let a few of the mod buggy buys know that we are trying to bring them back...maybe a couple of those guys will run them. Keith wants to get one too.

We'll have to wait and see, but at least the word is out.
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:23 AM   #596
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So I ran the gear diff over the weekend and the rear end was sliding out baf so I swapped out to some better rear tires. So when I had plenty of grip I could not turn to save my life. I figured it was from having to much rear traction so I went back to the original tires and could turn better but had Bo rear grip. I assume the grip had to do with running light oil in the back. 1.2x6 pistons and 27.5wt oil or whichever came with the kit but to light of oil. But I realized I had a really bad push in the turns and I assume it was the gear diff acting like posi traction and not letting me turn. I know it was binding up a little so I'm going to pull it apart and go through it. I know its running grease now and I'm sirenthats not helping. Anyone else dou g well with a gear diff? What at diff oil are you running in the gear diff? Or should I ditch the gear and break down and spend the $50 on a ball diff?
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:34 AM   #597
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Originally Posted by socal23 View Post
So I ran the gear diff over the weekend and the rear end was sliding out baf so I swapped out to some better rear tires. So when I had plenty of grip I could not turn to save my life. I figured it was from having to much rear traction so I went back to the original tires and could turn better but had Bo rear grip. I assume the grip had to do with running light oil in the back. 1.2x6 pistons and 27.5wt oil or whichever came with the kit but to light of oil. But I realized I had a really bad push in the turns and I assume it was the gear diff acting like posi traction and not letting me turn. I know it was binding up a little so I'm going to pull it apart and go through it. I know its running grease now and I'm sirenthats not helping. Anyone else dou g well with a gear diff? What at diff oil are you running in the gear diff? Or should I ditch the gear and break down and spend the $50 on a ball diff?

I'm way happier w/ the gear diff myself... 2k outdoors and 5k indoors (diff fluid).
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:41 PM   #598
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Does anyone recognize this diff? I pulled it from my dest210 and was looking for a rebuild kit BC the shims wore out and its binding up. I have no clue BC this doesn't look like the guts of a Durango diff

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Old 05-06-2013, 10:00 PM   #599
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Originally Posted by socal23 View Post
Does anyone recognize this diff? I pulled it from my dest210 and was looking for a rebuild kit BC the shims wore out and its binding up. I have no clue BC this doesn't look like the guts of a Durango diff

Looks like the diff from an ARRMA vehicle, http://www.arrma-rc.com/radio-controlled-cars/vortex/ I remember people looking for alternative diffs a while back.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:05 PM   #600
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Looks like the diff from an ARRMA vehicle, http://www.arrma-rc.com/radio-controlled-cars/vortex/ I remember people looking for alternative diffs a while back.

Yeah I guess its. A cheap fix. So now that I need to throw that one in the trash what should I buy a gear diff or ball diff? I am running 17.5 with a maby on 13.5. And if anyone says ball diff what type of runtime are you getting out of them? 3-6months or just a few weekends?
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