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Old 09-07-2012, 02:58 AM   #286
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Originally Posted by So*Cal AFDude View Post
Why no ball diff guys? They make the car handle so much better.
I will be honest mate I have never liked them because I don't think I have ever built 1 right either

So I just prefer gear diffs and can drive it just fine with them.

All my TD cars and buggys have gear diffs
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:36 AM   #287
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I will be honest mate I have never liked them because I don't think I have ever built 1 right either

So I just prefer gear diffs and can drive it just fine with them.

All my TD cars and buggys have gear diffs
+1

I have built plenty of ball diff's but they have been from AE rc's, and even though this one isn't much different I just can't seem to get it built right.... I did rebuild it and going to try it out again at the track tomorrow but if it fails again I'll be putting in the gear diff. I bought.....
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:17 AM   #288
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+1

I have built plenty of ball diff's but they have been from AE rc's, and even though this one isn't much different I just can't seem to get it built right.... I did rebuild it and going to try it out again at the track tomorrow but if it fails again I'll be putting in the gear diff. I bought.....
Thorough break in is the key to this diff, assuming it is assembled correctly. I like to do an initial break in with a drill in my hands before I install it, then do it again in the car by propping one wheel off the table (with the other wheel touching the table and the front of the car pushing against something solid), then trimming the throttle so the free wheel spins. Let it run for a few minutes, tighten a small bit, then do the other side. Usually once per side is enough since I did the initial break in before assembly. My diffs usually outlast the outdrives in the buggy. I also use BFast diff balls and rings, but like the stock thrust assembly.
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:20 AM   #289
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Default Yea the screws were too tight

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Don't over tighten the little screws mate

But yes it will be a bit tight until run in for 10 or 29 minutes or so then it should loosen up good

Did you use black grease ?
Yea I figured it out just after my post now it's like butter
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:32 AM   #290
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Maybe I should start selling assembled diffs. I have never had a diff go bad. It just slowly gets a little gritty after months and months of use. Like Jonny5 said, the outdrives usually need replacing before the diff needs to be rebuilt!
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:53 PM   #291
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Anyone interested in a crush tube for the front wheel bearings: I used TD #712003 from the DEX410 along with (3) .2mm shims with a 5mm ID (same size as all readily available clutch shims, just need .6mm overall). Then you can tighten the front wheels down with no binding whatsoever. I also used the alloy hexes (on my SC) for a more rigid structure when tightening the wheels.
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:06 PM   #292
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Thorough break in is the key to this diff, assuming it is assembled correctly. I like to do an initial break in with a drill in my hands before I install it, then do it again in the car by propping one wheel off the table (with the other wheel touching the table and the front of the car pushing against something solid), then trimming the throttle so the free wheel spins. Let it run for a few minutes, tighten a small bit, then do the other side. Usually once per side is enough since I did the initial break in before assembly. My diffs usually outlast the outdrives in the buggy. I also use BFast diff balls and rings, but like the stock thrust assembly.
Ceramic or carbide?
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:14 PM   #293
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Ceramic or carbide?
I know that I found ceramic balls to be to smooth. And will cause a little bark. I go carbide all the way.
.02
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:55 PM   #294
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I know that I found ceramic balls to be to smooth. And will cause a little bark. I go carbide all the way.
.02
+1. Fred from BFast explained to me a while back that ceramic balls do not give enough friction, thus your diff setting needs to be tighter to prevent barking. Since then I have always used their carbide diff balls, and in my old AE cars I used ceramic thrusts. They go out of their way to ensure that the balls they supply are of the highest quality, and they have literally never let me down. I won't build a ball diff without their stuff for my own cars.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:01 PM   #295
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Thanks guys
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:29 PM   #296
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Does the truck use the same springs as the buggy front and rear b/c i looked up the springs on petite rc it gave me the same as the buggy?thnx
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:09 PM   #297
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Does the truck use the same springs as the buggy front and rear b/c i looked up the springs on petite rc it gave me the same as the buggy?thnx
Yep sure can all the springs in the 1/10th range fit all cars. I swap and change from time to time.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:49 PM   #298
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Anyone tried running this in MM yet? I just switched mine over but haven't tried it yet.
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:28 AM   #299
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Boy that was shure smart on there part and i just spent about 70 bucks in springs so now it works out to 35 a set
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:24 PM   #300
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Ok so I installed a gear diff and the tc5 ballstuds with jconcept/losi ballcups, gonna go to the track tomorrow and see if I can get more then 3 laps out of this thing. If my changes don't improve then its time for me to move on, I also think I know why my ball diff wasn't working correctly, I looked at all the pics and online videos of the build on one and the e-clip I was sent looks completely different so I will see if my local hobby shop has any and retry the ball diff again if I keep the rango.........
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