Tas4

iTrader: (18)

Is anybody still using the type a chassis with any luck thought about using mine till I get my spares that I need to get some run time I talked to a guy Saturday night his boy was still running one and he had run his for a couple of years before he had to replace it.

BryanAZ

iTrader: (2)

I recently built my kit and it came with the type A chassis and although I haven't had too much track time with it, I love the truck and think it handles great. Haven't run the type b chassis, so don't have much to compare it to.

Dino_D

Most kits have the type A chassis and Type B chassis packed separately in the box.

The type B dimec chassis is stronger and more reinforced so it is just more durable. It won't really affect handling or performance. However, if you race on high bite or hot temperatures, the Dimec20 is stiffer. I normally run the dimec during the spring, fall, and winter months and dimec20 on high bite surfaces or in summer outdoors.

Dino_D

You can use RM3 or RM4. RM3 allows more weight transfer and pitch control with throttle in the air. RM4 has less weight transfer and more suited to loose conditions. Its driver preference.
And just tweak from there but it shouldn't be too far off. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

You can also use my setup for mid motor, MM4 on for med to high bite, but you will have to change the toe to 4 degrees. Battery to rear. Perhaps a harder front spring like Bordeaux and dark green or red springs on the rear.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...411/index.html

socal23

iTrader: (112)

If anyone is interested I just bought a new team durango desc210 body from towerhobbies.com for $12!!!!! Better get em now!!

Redsawacs

iTrader: (38)

Dino - I am using the Type B RF hanger from the kit. Even if I use the 1.5 kickup, it hits. I took the RR aluminum hanger off the Stadium Truck and it is EXACTLY the same as the ones I have now so I'm left with the conclusion it is NOT the Hanger. I'll play with a few transmission housings I have laying around and see if that may be the issue. Both Type A and Type B!!!

Thanks for the heads up on the RF hanger

BryanAZ

iTrader: (2)

And they have front arms for $3 a pair!

Dino_D

I wish I can assist you further. do you have any close up pics that you can post so we can help you figure out the issue.

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

Agree with Dino on this we need close up clear Pics to assis further something doesn't sound right .

I have a DESC210 which I have run over time the Type A and B chassis and A and B gearbox, as well as combos of both RR alloy blocks HRC and -2 LRC as well Type A, B and now Exotek RF blocks.

The only time I had a issue was running a -2 LRC RR Block with a Type A Dimec chassis as there were no reliefs in the chassis to allow max droop.

I currently run a TD330579 HRC Rear alloy block with a 2mm of antisquat in the RF exotek block and I dont get a clearance issue with the gearbox which is a type B.

Tas4

iTrader: (18)

Help I changed from mm3 to mm4 now when I tighten the motor plate up it binds the trans up did not do this on mm3 I can leave the 3 screws loose and it doesn't bind but the motor plate is loose what have I done wrong.

Dino_D

From my experiences, the type A box normally has this issue, so you have to leave the motor plate screws loose. You should not have this issue with the type B, also, check you diff shimming, and layshaft shimming. Sometimes either the layshaft spacer gets worn and causes a problem as their is now play there when you tighten and it warps the gearbox, or the spacer is too thick and needs to be filed slightly.

Tas4

iTrader: (18)

I found 3 small washers that I put between gearbox and spacer seemed to fix the problem how do you tell the difference between the gearboxes.

Dino_D

Type B has 2 hole positions for the inner camber links.

Tas4

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for the answers Dino I have the type a gearbox my shim solution worked but I will order the new style gearbox thank goodness the parts I have had to get are not real high priced parts because I have had no luck with help through Hobbico I tried to tell them I had traded for this and had no receipt and no help on the parts so much for being honest one guy I talked to didn't even know anything about any of the problems the truck had again thanks Dino.

kartyboy94

Hi Everyone,

Have been thinking about my DESC210 lately, and have spent the evening drawing up some parts ready for 3d print tomorrow.

I am trying to put weight further back, and wider, with the aim of creating a more stable rear end, by putting saddle pack lipos, one saddle each side of the centre channel, standing on their edges, as far out on the chassis as possible.

Any ideas/predictions/advice/concerns on what this might do to the handling of the truck? Obviously its dependent on alot of other factors, but Its worth a try!