The WTF buggy
#1
The WTF buggy
Name seemed Fitting. Just something I have been messing with for the last couple weeks in my spare time.
This is definatley my most in depth RC project yet but the other two worked out fine so I figured why not. The front arms and caster blocks are lost XXX-SCT arms as are the steering arms. Associated inline axles were tweaked to fit the losi carriers. I learned from the frankenbuggy and made sure that the ends of the axles are less that 250mm apart. It was 248 at the tires but 253 at the wheel nuts. Doesent fit through the tech box very well. Chassis will be a double deck with the lower being .080 6061 with the sides rolled up to give it some rigidity. Upper deck will be either another piece of .080 aluminum or some .125 fiberglass. Its setup for either a shorty sideways or a side by side saddle pack. Transmission is an sc10 transmission flipped for midmotor. The rear suspension is the real experiment. Its similar to the old losi jrx2 but a little different. All the links out back are temporary till I decide what I need. I made sure to plan enough clear chassis space that If I want to I can mount a normal set of rear arms If it comes to it.
Previous build threads for those interested
10T shortcourse http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...onversion.html
The frankenbuggy http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=22423
Nick
This is definatley my most in depth RC project yet but the other two worked out fine so I figured why not. The front arms and caster blocks are lost XXX-SCT arms as are the steering arms. Associated inline axles were tweaked to fit the losi carriers. I learned from the frankenbuggy and made sure that the ends of the axles are less that 250mm apart. It was 248 at the tires but 253 at the wheel nuts. Doesent fit through the tech box very well. Chassis will be a double deck with the lower being .080 6061 with the sides rolled up to give it some rigidity. Upper deck will be either another piece of .080 aluminum or some .125 fiberglass. Its setup for either a shorty sideways or a side by side saddle pack. Transmission is an sc10 transmission flipped for midmotor. The rear suspension is the real experiment. Its similar to the old losi jrx2 but a little different. All the links out back are temporary till I decide what I need. I made sure to plan enough clear chassis space that If I want to I can mount a normal set of rear arms If it comes to it.
Previous build threads for those interested
10T shortcourse http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...onversion.html
The frankenbuggy http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=22423
Nick
#2
Ok first update. Not too much progress but the rear end is supporting its own weight. I wanted to stick with a flat tower but no matter where I put the upper shock mounts they would bind bigtime. ended up with them angled but at least there is no binding. Gives me a pretty good idea where the final tower will be. I am planning on running a brace from the tower down to the center of the chassis to take some of the weight off of the top of the gearbox.
Nick
Nick
#3
Got a bit done on the front end. The reason I went with the losi caster blocks and steering arms is the kingpin offset.
The SCT carrier pulls the kingpin in a little bit over the old style RC10 caster blocks and a lot more than the b4 carriers.
Next up was the front axles. It was easier to use the steering arm for the sct than mess with adapting something else. The axle was not too bad to adapt to the associated wheels.
Top is the stock losi sct axle and steering arm. Middle is an RC10GT wide front axle for reference. The bottom is a stock associated inline axle with the steering arm trimmed slightly. Two wrapps of tape around the large end and they fit nice and snug in the steering arm.
The only shot I have of the front end so far.
So far I am real happy with how everything layed out. The inner camber ballstuds point to the rear so the ends pivot like they are supposed to. I could have just mounted them to the tower but then it makes fine roll center adjustments impossible. The way they are mounted the upper link mount is mounted to the lower bulkhead with two screws. Back the screws off and add or remove shims raises or lowers the upper link mount without messing with the ball cups. Sounds good in theory anyway. Need to do some more triming on the front noseplate yet and around the bulkhead yet. My links came in for the rear so that will give me something to do this weekend.
Nick
The SCT carrier pulls the kingpin in a little bit over the old style RC10 caster blocks and a lot more than the b4 carriers.
Next up was the front axles. It was easier to use the steering arm for the sct than mess with adapting something else. The axle was not too bad to adapt to the associated wheels.
Top is the stock losi sct axle and steering arm. Middle is an RC10GT wide front axle for reference. The bottom is a stock associated inline axle with the steering arm trimmed slightly. Two wrapps of tape around the large end and they fit nice and snug in the steering arm.
The only shot I have of the front end so far.
So far I am real happy with how everything layed out. The inner camber ballstuds point to the rear so the ends pivot like they are supposed to. I could have just mounted them to the tower but then it makes fine roll center adjustments impossible. The way they are mounted the upper link mount is mounted to the lower bulkhead with two screws. Back the screws off and add or remove shims raises or lowers the upper link mount without messing with the ball cups. Sounds good in theory anyway. Need to do some more triming on the front noseplate yet and around the bulkhead yet. My links came in for the rear so that will give me something to do this weekend.
Nick
#4
Very slow progress this past week. The boss got a 64 chevy pu that is getting a disk brake kit and a fuel injected crate motor so I have been very busy and tired trying to get that done. I did however get some rear links in and installed. Originally I hadnt planned on running all lundsford links in back but it works and the price wasnt too bad.
Looks a lot less hacked now.
Nick
Looks a lot less hacked now.
Nick
#5
Quick update. Steering is almost done. I just need to open the hole up for the bearings. I have the temp chassis trimmed down to size and my standoffs for the upper deck mounted.Next step is to get the top deck and rear trailing arm mounts sorted out then start cutting out final pieces.
Nick
Nick
#7