Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Only true if the setup info is shared freely and frequently. The reason 22's and B4s do so well at club racing is because the best pro's setups are easy to find. Left to our own devices (the way it was before the internet), the landscape might look a little different.

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

I own a 210 now, and have owned a team C 2wd. I must say that the 210 is rediculously easy to drive. I put it together box stock, with a setup i pulled for my rear end( 35deg front caster/zero trailing/rm4/ 3deg antisquat, and 4.5deg toe in) bam! easy as hell to drive, and fast as hell. After spending months trying to get traction from my team c, it was a wonderful thing to drive the 210. Tons of traction and steering, and very stable, and I am talking about a large rutted up 1/8 track. For comparison, with my 210 my fastes laptime on the local track was 35.4, and with my AE sc10 4x4 my fastest lap is 33.1. Im not the fastest guy(about 1-2 second behind per lap). I am very pleased with the 210.

shark2288

iTrader: (4)

How is the on power steering on the 210?

IanWright

iTrader: (1)

The one that has best parts availability near where you race.

If split between two or three, either buy the prettiest... wait. No.

Get the one the fastest club racers at you track(s) are running. That will mean two things - first, the fast guys are the ones you should ask questions of about set up. Second, it means you can SEE that car is fast so if it's not working for you, it's a good reminder you have work to do and not blame to the car


I have worked in a hobby shop at a track. Parts availability is seriously the first priority. We had problems with a couple of makers/distributers getting decent spares stock to us and there is nothing more frustrating than seeing someone unable to run because of a $5 part they don't have. Never assume one car is stronger than the other so you won't need as many parts - people will drive into you and you will smack it around on the big jump.

What's local is the most important thing I think. Listening to what the fast guys have to say is probably the second. Then drive the crap out of it.

OnlyVees

iTrader: (8)

Buy whichever car just won a big race.

You will win races too.

DJG24

Of course, for sake of argument, the B4.1 and Cavalieri won the 2wd class (which is what car he is asking about) Jorn and the Durango made up the points in the 4wd class to take the win.

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Excellent, it has a slight push(using neative expo) but has so much steering that I even turned down my steering via dual rate to 80%. The steering feels very precise, but not overly agressive. It is just so easy to drive.

shark2288

iTrader: (4)

Is there snything that should be upgraded prior to the build? Or just run it and replace as needed? Also, are the stock springs a good starting point for harf pack clay with med.
Bite. Would ryan's setup be a good starting point?

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

You drove monster joe's 22.... drive mine. Please just be careful with it. Just realize it has a 8.5 in it. I think you will be enlightened. Best setup is what JS,Steve, and I are running.


You really wanna know where the on power steering comes from ? The front tires... You can also change lots of things... with front springs and links and bs heights... The principles are the same from car to car. #1 is tires though.

You really should get a car that someone fast drives, it will help you learn faster. The durango is a dead end, shark. I had the 4wd it was nice design but the quality of the parts is crap.

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

While I respect you right to your own opinion, your statement is just plain wrong. The Durango parts quality is as good or better than any other car out there. My 14 year old brother runs nothing but Durango cars and drives the wheels off of all 3 of his cars with very minimal parts failure and the slop takes much longer to develop than other platforms we have used. Let's try and keep this thread factual and not an opinionated bs-fest.

Slash'em1

iTrader: (3)

+1

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Mine is box stock, except since im running rm4, I needded stiffer rear spring, losi 22pink rears spring.

With all due respect, a dead end? Thats crazy talk! The build quality minus the circlip was excellent on my 210, te build has the least amount of slop of any build I have done,oh and the instruction manual is not the greatest, but the online manual has been updated. One problem I have had was popping the inner rear ballcup. I replaced the inner ballstud and ballcup, and then broke the inner camber mount, which i quickly fixed with the rcshox inner rear camber mount.

Here is the track that I have been running on for some perspective.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTRjK7LyXoE

GuiltyByAssoc

iTrader: (6)

Indeed! Cav lost a round to Hara (4WD Epic battle) when somehow he slowed down in the middle of the straightaway on the final lap and Hara past him. Had he won that round then I believe Cav. would've won the thing.

But...given Cav. practically lives at wcrc and Jorn had pretty much zero experience at the place it speaks volume to the guy's talent and the equipments used.

Jim Panebianco

iTrader: (1)

Buy whatever car your LHS has parts for. I drove the 210 & 22 before deciding on the 22. The 3 reasons I chose the 22 were: 1) The 22 drove better for me 2) I seen 210's breaking much more 3) Durango parts are impossible to get.

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

They are not impossible to get. Sure some stuff is on back order, but if your lhs is doing their job than they can get stuff....just a call away.