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Old 01-18-2017, 05:31 PM   #121
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That style of axle is still called a CVD even if one end fits into a slotted drive cup. The outboard joint is technically called a cardan joint.

You're right, there is no room for splined telescoping axles on this buggy. The stock axles are plenty durable enough.

There is something wrong with your suspension. My axles don't fall out of the drive cups or bind against the drive cups at any point through the suspension's movement.

If you want boots for the dogbone ends of the axles, try the boots for the Vaterra Glamis. Those might fit better.
All good suggestions. It's not that there is anything with my suspension, I'm just looking to optimize the suspension travel and was looking at what it's limitations were. That's why the front assembly is removed. Unfortunately, the limitations are the drive axles. There has to be another alternative.

I feel like this buggy needs a little more ground clearance. What tires are you running? What's the OD? What's the OD on the factory tires?
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Old 01-18-2017, 05:40 PM   #122
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Are there any good skid plates out there? I looked on T-bone's website but only saw the rear bumper which only covered a small portion of the back.

Also, my profession is Design Drafting so I am capable of doing some 3D modeling and design. Right now I'm redesigning a shock tower. I know they make lots of aftermarket parts, but they aren't quite what I'm looking for. I want be able to put the shock near vertical for aesthetics. I know it's not really practical as far as suspension performance goes, but so what.

If anyone wants any parts modeled or designed, let me know. I really love the looks of the buggy, but the front body panel seems off to me. to round, or to narrow in the front. Something a little closer to the Yeti front end with out plagiarizing it completely. Anyone agree with me on this?

Last edited by 67StingrayJ; 01-18-2017 at 05:54 PM. Reason: duplicated previous post, wanted a new topic.
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Old 01-21-2017, 03:40 PM   #123
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fyrstormer,

Thanks for the information and guidance.
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Old 01-21-2017, 03:58 PM   #124
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The Ten-SCBE looks like a "sand rail" buggy that's been widened to accommodate a passenger. So it looks pretty much the way it's supposed to look.

The tires I'm running are Pro-Line Baja KR2s. I don't know the OD of the stock tires, but with closed-cell foams installed in the Baja KR2s, they bulge-out to the same OD as the stock tires.

What do you need a skidplate for? It's not a rock crawler, it's a buggy. Go find some grass and dirt, and drive it there. It's built for high-speed handling, not trail running. If you want more ground clearance on the cheap, you can install 2.8" monster truck tires on it. Or you can get an actual monster truck.
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Old 01-23-2017, 06:00 AM   #125
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The skid plate would be for those landing on pavement. In particular, the curb to my driveway I bought some heavy vinyl and wrapped the bottom of my RC to keep it to a minimum, but it's just not enough. Skid plates don't have to be only for rock crawling.

I'm thinking about getting these MIP 15240 axles. They look like they have a chamfer on the inside that might give me a little more clearance. Anyone have any experience with the MIP 15240 axles?





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Old 01-23-2017, 07:33 AM   #126
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You're jumping and landing on pavement?? >_< Why? Do you hate your RCs?

Do those dogbones have brass rollers or plastic rollers? If they're plastic, the Ten-SCBE will shred them in no time unless you're running a weak "stock racing" motor. If they're brass, they should be fine, though I don't know if they're longer than stock.
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:57 AM   #127
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Besides the body panels and the roll cage for the conversion SCTE 2.0 to SCBE you will also need:

LOSB8154 Ten-T Rear Wing
LOS234009 Spacer Set
LOS235016 4-40 X 1 1/2" Cap Head Screw
20x 4-40 x 1/4 button heads
8x 4-40 x 1/2 button heads
8x 5-40 x 1/2 button heads

and for style reasons, I suggest buying two pairs of the desert claw tires as well LOS43007 Desert Claws Tires
Very useful. Thanks.

Since the SCTE kit has more suspension setup options than the SCBE, what did you choose to do? Did you duplicate the SCBE setup, use the initial setup from the kit manual, or use the setup you've been running on the SCTE?
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Old 01-27-2017, 06:37 PM   #128
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Just converted my SCTE 2.0 into a SCBE. I have to say the SCBE body rocks. It's nice having a more scale desert buggy based on the proven handling and capabilities of the SCTE... can't wait to drive it.
Does your 2.0 kit have the original chassis or the -3 mm chassis? Where does the 3 mm come from? The TLR site shows the same wheelbase for the 2.0 and the 3.0, which comes with the shorter chassis.

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Old 01-27-2017, 08:05 PM   #129
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To answer my own question, Losi lists the same part number (LOS231001) for the chassis of both the SCBE and the Troy Lee SCBE RTR, which is essentially an RTR SCTE 2.0 and far predates the -3 mm chassis. So, I conclude that the SCBE comes with the longer, original chassis.
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Old 01-28-2017, 08:58 AM   #130
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To answer my own question, Losi lists the same part number (LOS231001) for the chassis of both the SCBE and the Troy Lee SCBE RTR, which is essentially an RTR SCTE 2.0 and far predates the -3 mm chassis. So, I conclude that the SCBE comes with the longer, original chassis.
Great investigative journalism!
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Old 01-29-2017, 06:35 AM   #131
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So I tore open my front diff yesterday to look to see what I was working with. I'm dead set on getting more ground clearance out of the buggy. the driveshafts seem to be the limiting factor at this point where they connect to the Front Diff. I haven't found a solution yet, but I'm getting closer. Here are some pics of the inside of the front diff.










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Old 01-29-2017, 01:45 PM   #132
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You could camber-in the front suspension a bit to push the CVDs further into the drive cups. It's a short-term fix but it will let you determine if you actually like the way the vehicle handles with taller suspension.
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Old 01-29-2017, 01:59 PM   #133
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Why not get a hex conversion and run 1/8 scale buggy wheels and tires?
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Old 01-29-2017, 02:22 PM   #134
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Why not get a hex conversion and run 1/8 scale buggy wheels and tires?
I am absolutely going to get 1/8 scale wheels and tires, eventually. This is more about making this RC max out. It bothers me that the stock suspension has more travel left in it when it bottoms out. What the heck is that?

So, I have determined that I can get the most travel out of the front suspension if I got a new shock tower with lower mounts. I'm currently designing one and will have my local Waterjet shop cut them out for me. I will would have to then get a longer cvd driveshaft. Something about 0.5mm-07mm longer. Does anyone now how they measure a them? how long are the stock ones? Is it Center to center? end to end? A pic would help.
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Old 01-29-2017, 05:47 PM   #135
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Does anyone now how they measure a them? how long are the stock ones? Is it Center to center? end to end? A pic would help.
So I found this to be the case, they are measured end to end. Can anyone confirm?

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