14LikesRCshox products and services
12-09-2011, 09:48 AM
#16
+1
Great products and great help to me in pushing my SC10 4x4 to it's performance limit. Ackbar steering rack, 2 stage shock pistons and the Garodisc slipper disc have all helped me. If you have an SC10 4x4 or 2wd check his stuff out. A man with ingenuity!
Marcus, What exactly is this new "ball diff" looking product? More details...please!
Disclaimer: I too am not affiliated with RCShox just a satisfied customer.
Great products and great help to me in pushing my SC10 4x4 to it's performance limit. Ackbar steering rack, 2 stage shock pistons and the Garodisc slipper disc have all helped me. If you have an SC10 4x4 or 2wd check his stuff out. A man with ingenuity!
Marcus, What exactly is this new "ball diff" looking product? More details...please!
Disclaimer: I too am not affiliated with RCShox just a satisfied customer.
the center dif is actually a center ball dif conversion, just like any center dif it transfers power away from where it is not needed. There are many benefits to this one being that you decrease damage to the idler gear which has been a soft spot on our trucks! if you watch the video you will see that on the first lap i was driving crazy just to show that you can be really aggressive and the truck will not "spin" around, it pretty much follows where ever the front wheels are pointed, on low traction it is superior and on high traction the acceleration is stunning especially coming out of turns. You also increase corner speed because the front is not locked down to the rear, braking is also better.
with a slipper slipping you are always losing power, with the center dif all of the power is going somewhere at any givin time!
12-09-2011, 10:17 AM
#18
if i had to guess and compared to my 1/8 scale i would say it feels like 15k. but of course it acts different because it is a ball dif. Yes it is opposing. it initially has more bite and then "difs out" which is great for backside jump accleration! i built one about a year ago for my 4wd buggy and it was excellent. the video on my home page shows the buggy with a ball center diff, i have been playing with this concept for a while!
tried needle bearing but didnt work very well:
this was the final version for the Caster SK buggy:
tried needle bearing but didnt work very well:
this was the final version for the Caster SK buggy:
12-09-2011, 10:18 AM
#19
So with this ball diff is pin mod not needed anymore??
12-09-2011, 10:21 AM
#20
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
the center dif is actually a center ball dif conversion, just like any center dif it transfers power away from where it is not needed. There are many benefits to this one being that you decrease damage to the idler gear which has been a soft spot on our trucks! if you watch the video you will see that on the first lap i was driving crazy just to show that you can be really aggressive and the truck will not "spin" around, it pretty much follows where ever the front wheels are pointed, on low traction it is superior and on high traction the acceleration is stunning especially coming out of turns. You also increase corner speed because the front is not locked down to the rear, braking is also better.
with a slipper slipping you are always losing power, with the center dif all of the power is going somewhere at any givin time!
with a slipper slipping you are always losing power, with the center dif all of the power is going somewhere at any givin time!
12-09-2011, 10:23 AM
#21
So it sounds like it binds up on high torque demands to prevent completely spinning the front tires when accelerating? Any idea where this much resistance comes from? Friction of the carbide balls against the spur gear? Any grease applied to the assembly like a typical AE diff?
sorry for the Stupid Q?
12-09-2011, 10:40 AM
#25
Crap! Just bought a basket know I have to buy this 
12-09-2011, 10:53 AM
#28
no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers!!!!
Krio is correct, it is used non pinned . You will not need slipper pads or clutch basket, it is all replaced by the modded spur gear (for now) and the rest of the conversion pcs. it literally takes about 5 minutes to install. you use a very light coat of ball dif grease(vaseline works too) on the balls. if you use to much it will make a mess since most of it gets flung out everywhere. you do however need to use a thicker grease on the thrust assembly since it really goes to work now! as far as adjustment goes YOU CANNOT ALLOW IT TO SLIP AT ALL, it will melt the spur gear and ruin the dif rings quickly!! this is the final hold up now i am trying to come up with a fool proof way of tightening it down. right now it is just tightend all the way down using the slipper spring and there has been no issues but, we all know it has to be idiot proof because someone is bound to blow one up!!
Krio is correct, it is used non pinned . You will not need slipper pads or clutch basket, it is all replaced by the modded spur gear (for now) and the rest of the conversion pcs. it literally takes about 5 minutes to install. you use a very light coat of ball dif grease(vaseline works too) on the balls. if you use to much it will make a mess since most of it gets flung out everywhere. you do however need to use a thicker grease on the thrust assembly since it really goes to work now! as far as adjustment goes YOU CANNOT ALLOW IT TO SLIP AT ALL, it will melt the spur gear and ruin the dif rings quickly!! this is the final hold up now i am trying to come up with a fool proof way of tightening it down. right now it is just tightend all the way down using the slipper spring and there has been no issues but, we all know it has to be idiot proof because someone is bound to blow one up!!
