Filling big bore shocks with no bladder?
11-23-2011, 07:04 PM
#1
Filling big bore shocks with no bladder?
I'm lost.....
I cannot figure out how to properly fill the big bores with no bladder.
These are Kyosho shocks that fill from the bottom.
The shaft is either stiff when compressed or pulls back in when extended or both.
Any help is appreciated.
I cannot figure out how to properly fill the big bores with no bladder.
These are Kyosho shocks that fill from the bottom.
The shaft is either stiff when compressed or pulls back in when extended or both.
Any help is appreciated.
11-23-2011, 08:41 PM
#2
Tech Addict
when you do not use bladders you have to leave air in there. Other wise the the shock shaft will not go in the body. Normally with a bladder the mass of the shock shaft going into the body compresses the bladder, on that type of shock fill it 85-90% to leave enough air to compress when the shock action happens. Yes it will turn to foam in there! but the bubbles in foam compress collectively and it works, however it lightens your shock rate so you might want to go heavier to compensate. Now you know why we use bladders to keep the shock rates consistent across oil weights.
11-23-2011, 09:14 PM
#3
I use the Kyosho big bores and this is how I fill and bleed them.
1) I just fill them up to just shy of the threads inside the body, extend the shock shaft all the way in the cartridge (shock piston touching the cartridge), then screw the cartridge in.
2) Screw it all the way down, then back it off about 1/2 turn or so.
3) Slowly push the shaft in and oil will start seeping out. Push the shaft all the way down and keep it there while you tighten the cartridge (by hand, no tool needed).
4) Extend the shaft, then slowly compress it again. If it does not bottom out with very little pressure (shock eyelet touching the cartridge), leave it in the compressed position (not pressing on it) and unscrew the cartridge about 1/2 turn or so.
5) Compress the shaft the rest of the way and you should get a miniscule amount of oil seepage.
6) Leave it compressed and close the cartridge (by hand, no tool).
7) Extend and compress again to test.
That should do it. Once you get the process down, it goes pretty quick and the Kyosho shocks are probably the best in the biz. They put a tool in with the kit, but I've yet to use it. Just get it tight by hand and it's not going anywhere.
1) I just fill them up to just shy of the threads inside the body, extend the shock shaft all the way in the cartridge (shock piston touching the cartridge), then screw the cartridge in.
2) Screw it all the way down, then back it off about 1/2 turn or so.
3) Slowly push the shaft in and oil will start seeping out. Push the shaft all the way down and keep it there while you tighten the cartridge (by hand, no tool needed).
4) Extend the shaft, then slowly compress it again. If it does not bottom out with very little pressure (shock eyelet touching the cartridge), leave it in the compressed position (not pressing on it) and unscrew the cartridge about 1/2 turn or so.
5) Compress the shaft the rest of the way and you should get a miniscule amount of oil seepage.
6) Leave it compressed and close the cartridge (by hand, no tool).
7) Extend and compress again to test.
That should do it. Once you get the process down, it goes pretty quick and the Kyosho shocks are probably the best in the biz. They put a tool in with the kit, but I've yet to use it. Just get it tight by hand and it's not going anywhere.
11-24-2011, 06:25 AM
#4
Awesome! Thanks guys.
Since we're talking RB5 and I've never run 2WD.....where is a good starting point for which oil to use front and back.
Should I run it similar to my 4WD and go from there or start with lighter oils?
Since we're talking RB5 and I've never run 2WD.....where is a good starting point for which oil to use front and back.
Should I run it similar to my 4WD and go from there or start with lighter oils?
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