rc18t/mini-t
#1
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
rc18t/mini-t
which is better?
#2
First biased bashing post and this thread is gone!
#3
Registered User
the 18t it has bearing oil filled shocks and battery and chager to recharge all in one noting else to buy
#4
Tech Rookie
The 18T is four wheel drive, the Mini-T is two wheel drive.
Not saying one is better than the other... just an important difference.
Not saying one is better than the other... just an important difference.
#5
Think they'll be able to race together since they are pretty different? Same scale and all, but you don't see many 4wd and 2wd cars together.
#6
This weekend they will be running side by side at SoCal's annual supercross. The Mini-T's have had more time to get them hopped up etc. We don't know what problems the RC18T is going to have yet but spare parts could be a problem this first week. My personal opinion is that the RC18T may not be faster yet than a dialed Mini-T but given a while the RC18T will be the superior truck.
#7
Tech Fanatic
im gonna get 1 of hese 4 xmas..........i think the rc18t is better cos its bearing/4wd/truly RTR/and it just looks better
so am i makin the righ choice geting the rc18t over the mini t
so am i makin the righ choice geting the rc18t over the mini t
#8
Tech Addict
non proprietary electronics, bearings, 2 ball diffs, oil shocks, 4wd makes the balance of the car much better, can handle the speed a lot better, 6 cell rechargable and charger included seperate electronic speed control,they were smart to go 4wd and basically 1 up everything on the mini-t
basically your comparing apples and oranges here, what was the question again?
basically your comparing apples and oranges here, what was the question again?
#9
Tech Fanatic
ok i ordered the rc18t off stormer.........is there anything i should know or watch out 4
#10
Look out for the shock spring retainer,those things have been known to fall off easily during use and it has plastic turnbuckles my bet is they wouldnt last long
#11
Tech Elite
iTrader: (46)
I had a shock spring retainer fall off racing last week and you might tape up the access hole on the bottom of the chassis - I had some dirt get up in my spur/pinion on a pretty packed track so I imagine that it might be easier if your're on loose dirt. Only other problem would be to be sure and check the tightness of the motor adjusting screws - 2 from above, 1 from below. Mine worked loose BUT no damage to the spur.
Other than that, mine ran good enough to give me a win over a couple of over powered Mini-Ts and hopefully rejuvinate our dwindling Mini class!
LOTSA' FUN!!!!
Other than that, mine ran good enough to give me a win over a couple of over powered Mini-Ts and hopefully rejuvinate our dwindling Mini class!
LOTSA' FUN!!!!
#12
Top 4 finishers in SoCal's Supercross were RC18T's. 3 were basically box stock. Tony Phalen's was a factory team special with all the factory works stuff on it.
Last edited by HB Moose; 12-13-2004 at 12:22 AM.
#13
Tech Addict
Originally posted by HB Moose
Top 4 finishers in SoCal's Supercross were RC10T's.
Top 4 finishers in SoCal's Supercross were RC10T's.
kidding I know it was a typo
#14
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I believe he meant RC18T if you look in the picture they were all 18T. Oh and if you are just getting one, here are the two biggest things to look out for.
1) The turnbuckels need replacing emediately. They give too much and the dogbones will pop out and if they do the spring that keeps tention on the dogbone will also end up missing.
2) The axel studs stink. I broke one right away.
The solution is (as soon as it is available) THE FT CVD's. These should solve both problems with ease.
Also it would be wise to get hold of these spares.
A-Arms
Dogbones and springs if you plan on keeping it stock.
And that is about it. I have beaten mine up and that is all that has happened to it.
Oh I also have the Mamba 6800kv and the drive train seems to handle it well. NO Real signs of wear.
I would also recommend getting the GP1100's they handle the drain requirements of such a powerful motor. Or even if you just upgrade your motor. You can feel the difference between the packs. The RTR pack is OK and I use it for just tuning and such, but it can not handle the kind of drain the Mamba puts on it. I get 3 minutes with the stock pack and 6 minutes with the gp cells so you do the math.
Hope This Helps
HTH
Stephen <><
1) The turnbuckels need replacing emediately. They give too much and the dogbones will pop out and if they do the spring that keeps tention on the dogbone will also end up missing.
2) The axel studs stink. I broke one right away.
The solution is (as soon as it is available) THE FT CVD's. These should solve both problems with ease.
Also it would be wise to get hold of these spares.
A-Arms
Dogbones and springs if you plan on keeping it stock.
And that is about it. I have beaten mine up and that is all that has happened to it.
Oh I also have the Mamba 6800kv and the drive train seems to handle it well. NO Real signs of wear.
I would also recommend getting the GP1100's they handle the drain requirements of such a powerful motor. Or even if you just upgrade your motor. You can feel the difference between the packs. The RTR pack is OK and I use it for just tuning and such, but it can not handle the kind of drain the Mamba puts on it. I get 3 minutes with the stock pack and 6 minutes with the gp cells so you do the math.
Hope This Helps
HTH
Stephen <><
#15
Tech Addict
ohh the lithium thunder power 2100 2 cells fits nicely in it, runs forever and fast as he double hocky sticks