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Old 11-27-2012, 12:57 PM   #3616
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Tom, you'll be cutting it close keep wheel spin to a minimum. If the track is wide open smooth flowing/rally style do not drive the car deep into the corners/lift early and allow the rolling resistance to slow the car down (literally drive without using brakes). This will be the most fuel efficient drive habit to pick up on.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:07 PM   #3617
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Originally Posted by nv529 View Post
Tom, you'll be cutting it close keep wheel spin to a minimum. If the track is wide open smooth flowing/rally style do not drive the car deep into the corners/lift early and allow the rolling resistance to slow the car down (literally drive without using brakes). This will be the most fuel efficient drive habit to pick up on.
Thanks Nick! i will practice that on both electric and nitro. I have a set of 5600mAH 50C 2S batteries I can always use but man the weight is getting up there on this baby. I'm going to start looking for weight reductions now!

Anyone know if the new Vertical Spindles are lighter that stock?
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:25 PM   #3618
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M2C are NOT TAPERED. I ordered a set only to find out the buggy I bought recently already had the associated tapered pistons in it.

Thanks
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:58 AM   #3619
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How heavy is your RC8.2e? What changes would you recommend to reduce weight?
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:33 PM   #3620
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I did a quick search and didn't come up with anything.

What KV range or turn should one be looking at when only running a 2s lipo?
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:00 AM   #3621
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Default Zero Force Team Asso RC8.2e Bearing kit set

Zero Force Team Asso RC8.2e Bearing kit set (18pcs) (ZF-B11014)

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Zero Force Team Asso RC8.2 Bearing kit set (18pcs) (ZF-B11005)

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Old 11-30-2012, 03:12 AM   #3622
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I did a quick search and didn't come up with anything.

What KV range or turn should one be looking at when only running a 2s lipo?
I would not recommend using only 2S Lipos. You can use two matched 2S lipos in series which makes 4S. That is what I'm doing. On 2s only you would need a 5000Kv motor like the Novak Ballistic 4.5t 550 but Novak doesn't recommend to use this. Short Course 4x4 motors may work but really the weight of this vehicle is pretty high for 2s.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:12 AM   #3623
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My RC8.2e weighed in at 3610 gms with my heaviest batteries (2xNano-Tech 5600-50C hardcase). With my two shorty batteries (2xReedy 4000mAH-60C) pushed to the front it weighed in at 3425gms. So not too bad really for 8th scale. My weight distribution didn't change too much between the batteries and was 48/52 roughly so I could loose some weight in the rear somehow. Maybe the rear Carbon tower. With the Reedy batteries I was nearly 50/50 left to right. I would need to add about 50gms to the reciever box to really get it super close with the NanoTech batteries. Adding a little weigh to the front will also help the front/rear balance. So a nice 4500-5000mAH battery should be pretty good for this car for static balance. I beleive the ROAR rules use the 3200gm minimum spec so I really don't need to shed much.

What weight saving ideas do you have? Which upgrades do you recommend for reducing weight?

1) Carbon Towers
2) Ti turnbuckles
3) Lundsford hinge pins
4) Vertical Spindles
5) custom changes?
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:40 AM   #3624
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Originally Posted by TomErickson View Post
I would not recommend using only 2S Lipos. You can use two matched 2S lipos in series which makes 4S. That is what I'm doing. On 2s only you would need a 5000Kv motor like the Novak Ballistic 4.5t 550 but Novak doesn't recommend to use this. Short Course 4x4 motors may work but really the weight of this vehicle is pretty high for 2s.
The indoor track I'd be running on is on the small side and 2s is the limit. That's the reasoning for that small of a battery.
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:26 AM   #3625
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The indoor track I'd be running on is on the small side and 2s is the limit. That's the reasoning for that small of a battery.
Got it. Well then my recommendation is still valid. I would go with a 4300-5000Kv motor either 4 pole or 550 2 pole motor designed for Short Course. Make sure you use good thick wire(12G min.) since these motors will draw a lot of current. You may need to install a capacitor on your reciever (especially Spektrum). Select a pinion that is smaller since you will not need top speed.

What Speedo are you using? I would stick with an 8th scale specific speedo for this application like the Tekin RX8 or similar.
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:37 AM   #3626
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The indoor track I'd be running on is on the small side and 2s is the limit. That's the reasoning for that small of a battery.
Double check their rules. e-buggy is very heavy for 2s and will be very hard on the motor, esc, and battery. Lower voltage means more amp draw on top of a car that already weights 3600 to 4000 grams means that ESC's will be popping and batteries puffing. I WOULD BE
4wd short course is already putting a heavy load on 2s batteries with a 4000 to 4600kv motor.
If I were you get all the e-buggy guys together to petition for 4s. or not run e-buggy and start running something else like 2wd mod or 4wd mod buggy.
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:36 AM   #3627
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Double check their rules. e-buggy is very heavy for 2s and will be very hard on the motor, esc, and battery. Lower voltage means more amp draw on top of a car that already weights 3600 to 4000 grams means that ESC's will be popping and batteries puffing. I WOULD BE
4wd short course is already putting a heavy load on 2s batteries with a 4000 to 4600kv motor.
If I were you get all the e-buggy guys together to petition for 4s. or not run e-buggy and start running something else like 2wd mod or 4wd mod buggy.
I was gonna say the same thing. See if you can talk them into AT LEAST 3S. When a car weighs over 7lbs, and you use an electronic setup based on vehicles that weigh 5lbs or less, you run into issues. I know people have made it work and probably for the same reasons... an indoor track with silly rules.
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:55 AM   #3628
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Hey guys,

Just bought the rc8.2e and need a good set up for a loose rough top soil type of track. Theres so many set ups but I dont know which one to start with. Thanks
Start with the default set-up.

Change #1 is to an appropriate tire (ask a local fast guy if at a track, if in a friends backyard do some internet research). Tire is about 80% of set-up.

If it is rough, you may want to consider increasing the ride heigh a little bit.

After tires and reight height (super easy, super fast to do, free), look-up a guide on how to set-up a car, then refer to the manual on how to perform those adjustments. Hudy has a nice guide, as does JQ THE Guide.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:01 AM   #3629
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Start with the default set-up.

After tires and reight height (super easy, super fast to do, free), look-up a guide on how to set-up a car, then refer to the manual on how to perform those adjustments. Hudy has a nice guide, as does JQ THE Guide.
Can you post a link? Something like you suggest would be very helpful.
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:11 PM   #3630
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Can you post a link? Something like you suggest would be very helpful.
JQ THE Guide: http://jq-products.com/the-news/43-t.../160-the-guide

Google turned up this gem, seems on par: http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racing/rc-tuning-guide/

Hudy set-up guide: http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&...oj71mC71DY-3EA

This is a lot of reading material about setup.
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