HOTBODIES D8E
08-18-2011, 08:03 PM
#1
HOTBODIES D8E
i could not find much on this so have a few questions, are the set ups close to the nitro set ups? i have MMM and 2200kv im going to put in tomorrow, any ideas on gearing? will be raced only on a slight loomy large track with a few technical spots. it has the stock spur (steel) gear in it, this is my first electric 1/8 buggy, i have been running nitro for about 5 years and new to the hole electric. also could anyone tell me what conversion this is???? thanks!! Mike
08-18-2011, 09:07 PM
#2
Not sure what conversion that is......not hhh or tekno...could be rc monster...or maybe a custom job. As far as setup nitro would be a good place to start. If it ends up heavier than the nitro version then you may need to increase springs and/or shock oils. I think the stock gearing for the nitro is 16t...so you may want to go either 17t, 18t or 19t with the 2200kv on 4s. All depends on the kind if speed you need for your particular track. 
08-18-2011, 09:16 PM
#3
Not sure what conversion that is......not hhh or tekno...could be rc monster...or maybe a custom job. As far as setup nitro would be a good place to start. If it ends up heavier than the nitro version then you may need to increase springs and/or shock oils. I think the stock gearing for the nitro is 16t...so you may want to go either 17t, 18t or 19t with the 2200kv on 4s. All depends on the kind if speed you need for your particular track.
heres a pic of the buggy.
08-19-2011, 06:35 AM
#4
Digging the Pac Man! Haha
I am running a D8 tekno conversion with RX8 2050kv combo and 22/48 gearing with great success. I had been running a 2200kv castle setup and wanted the 2250kv when I switched over to Tekin, but that particular motor had too long of a can, so I went with the 2050kv instead.
2200kv on 4s will work fine...you will have more than enough motor to get the job done. Some would say too much motor, but IMO it is always easier to dial back a setup than it is to try and get something that's just not there in the first place. 2200 is about the highest kv you would probably want to go for racing.
It is really hard to over gear a modern brushless motor since there is SO much torque available, so keep it geared on the higher side of things as I mentioned and ease off on the throttle to keep it under control. This will help extend run times and keep esc/motor temps on the low side.
I am running a D8 tekno conversion with RX8 2050kv combo and 22/48 gearing with great success. I had been running a 2200kv castle setup and wanted the 2250kv when I switched over to Tekin, but that particular motor had too long of a can, so I went with the 2050kv instead.
2200kv on 4s will work fine...you will have more than enough motor to get the job done. Some would say too much motor, but IMO it is always easier to dial back a setup than it is to try and get something that's just not there in the first place. 2200 is about the highest kv you would probably want to go for racing.
It is really hard to over gear a modern brushless motor since there is SO much torque available, so keep it geared on the higher side of things as I mentioned and ease off on the throttle to keep it under control. This will help extend run times and keep esc/motor temps on the low side.
08-19-2011, 06:55 AM
#5
I ran my D8-E with that same Castle system with a 19t pinion, 4s battery and it was fine. Plenty of speed and could get through all the technical sections. Only thing I did different than the nitro setup was go up to 45w shock oil in front, 40 rear, 1.3 pistons, white springs all the way around, but even the blue ones up front would be better, there is little more body roll with the added weight of the battery. Re-check your ride height also because of the slight weight gain. In my diffs I ran 5,5,2 for oils and it was hooked up. Good luck!
08-19-2011, 07:10 AM
#6
Digging the Pac Man! Haha
I am running a D8 tekno conversion with RX8 2050kv combo and 22/48 gearing with great success. I had been running a 2200kv castle setup and wanted the 2250kv when I switched over to Tekin, but that particular motor had too long of a can, so I went with the 2050kv instead.
2200kv on 4s will work fine...you will have more than enough motor to get the job done. Some would say too much motor, but IMO it is always easier to dial back a setup than it is to try and get something that's just not there in the first place. 2200 is about the highest kv you would probably want to go for racing.
It is really hard to over gear a modern brushless motor since there is SO much torque available, so keep it geared on the higher side of things as I mentioned and ease off on the throttle to keep it under control. This will help extend run times and keep esc/motor temps on the low side.
I am running a D8 tekno conversion with RX8 2050kv combo and 22/48 gearing with great success. I had been running a 2200kv castle setup and wanted the 2250kv when I switched over to Tekin, but that particular motor had too long of a can, so I went with the 2050kv instead.
2200kv on 4s will work fine...you will have more than enough motor to get the job done. Some would say too much motor, but IMO it is always easier to dial back a setup than it is to try and get something that's just not there in the first place. 2200 is about the highest kv you would probably want to go for racing.
It is really hard to over gear a modern brushless motor since there is SO much torque available, so keep it geared on the higher side of things as I mentioned and ease off on the throttle to keep it under control. This will help extend run times and keep esc/motor temps on the low side.
I ran my D8-E with that same Castle system with a 19t pinion, 4s battery and it was fine. Plenty of speed and could get through all the technical sections. Only thing I did different than the nitro setup was go up to 45w shock oil in front, 40 rear, 1.3 pistons, white springs all the way around, but even the blue ones up front would be better, there is little more body roll with the added weight of the battery. Re-check your ride height also because of the slight weight gain. In my diffs I ran 5,5,2 for oils and it was hooked up. Good luck!
08-19-2011, 07:51 AM
#9
I suggest using a washer and shimming the motor. Just find a washer about the same diameter as the front of the 2200 and drill a couple of mounting holes for the screws. Keeps you from having to grind off the shaft of the motor.
Dennis
08-19-2011, 08:03 AM
#10
Then you wouldn't spend money on their new super duper chassis rig.
I suggest using a washer and shimming the motor. Just find a washer about the same diameter as the front of the 2200 and drill a couple of mounting holes for the screws. Keeps you from having to grind off the shaft of the motor.
Dennis
I suggest using a washer and shimming the motor. Just find a washer about the same diameter as the front of the 2200 and drill a couple of mounting holes for the screws. Keeps you from having to grind off the shaft of the motor.
Dennis
08-19-2011, 10:31 AM
#11
I would spend the money for the rc-monster receiver box/servo mount(allows easy access to pinion) and the battery tray( allows a wide range of batteries and a place to mount your esc). I would recommend anywhere from a 15t-18th pinion. If you feel that your rear end is spinning out or you are hitting top speed fairly early on the straight, go up a tooth. I run the rc-monster converision, and other than the teckno, is the best one.
08-19-2011, 10:40 AM
#12
I would spend the money for the rc-monster receiver box/servo mount(allows easy access to pinion) and the battery tray( allows a wide range of batteries and a place to mount your esc). I would recommend anywhere from a 15t-18th pinion. If you feel that your rear end is spinning out or you are hitting top speed fairly early on the straight, go up a tooth. I run the rc-monster converision, and other than the teckno, is the best one.
, not to sure i like the idea of the ESC being in front. ill post a pic here in a minute...........to be continued..
08-19-2011, 01:03 PM
#14
It shouldn't be a problem after you after the mud guards. I am kind of curious which ones would fit that chassis...although I guess you could get some guards like the tekno or stock ones and drill out the holes you need as long as it doesn't interfere with anything hanging over the edge.
08-19-2011, 08:29 PM
#15
I did find what conversion it was, a cheapy but seems to work good!!
http://www.okhobby.com/product.php?id_product=1079
http://www.okhobby.com/product.php?id_product=1079