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Old 11-22-2004, 03:41 AM
  #61  
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Offroad means for dirt doesnt it ahh well this is an awsome car everything about it is pro
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Old 11-22-2004, 09:32 PM
  #62  
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dirt!
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Old 11-23-2004, 02:42 AM
  #63  
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oh oh oh oh oooooh i got a T4 question

is the chassis for the team truck vs the factory team truck any different? if i can save 60 bucks and then upgrade to the FT T4 later, it would be a bit easier on the wallet. if its a matter of upgrading turnbuckles and motor plates, it would be a hell of alot less work than if i had to go out and get a whole new chassis too.

normally i wouldnt care, but it will be my first 6 cell electric, so ill have to drop probably 90 or 100 bucks in batteries too not to mention an XXtra receiver, and a p2k2.

actually, on the same note, whats a good stock 27T motor with a rediculous amount of run time between comm cuts?
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Old 11-23-2004, 07:53 AM
  #64  
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Beetle-

I think that the FT chassis is graphite vs polycarb/plastic. If you feel like splurging later get the graphite upgrade kit.

As for a motor I have been having good luck with Monster Horsepower Stock motors. Use a red overhead spring on the pos side and a green overhead spring on the negative with Trinity 4503 brushes. Otherwise a Reedy MVP can take lots of abuse. I ran one in my FT B3 at 220 degrees for 12 runs/week for about a month before a rebuild. I didnt slow down too much, maybe a lap.
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Old 11-23-2004, 08:38 PM
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We race ours on the roadcourse (carpet) as well as carpet oval and indoor/outdoor dirt. Fun all around.
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Old 11-24-2004, 07:52 AM
  #66  
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Originally posted by beetlebz
is the chassis for the team truck vs the factory team truck any different? if i can save 60 bucks and then upgrade to the FT T4 later, it would be a bit easier on the wallet. if its a matter of upgrading turnbuckles and motor plates, it would be a hell of alot less work than if i had to go out and get a whole new chassis too.
Keep in mind that the Team kit uses rubber sealed bearings, and the Factory Team uses bearings sealed with a thin piece of nylon. In my opinion the rubber seals just add unnecessary drag and aren't as easy to clean and lube as the bearings that come with the Factory Team kit.
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Old 11-24-2004, 08:34 AM
  #67  
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Aight, I dont run the B4 anymore, but what i did to fix the chassis was dremel the sides of the battery tray just a TAD, and only a TAD, and with the battery bars, I flattened them, and made SURE to use the positive and negative position on the bar. I used Deans 3.0, they seem to work the best when flattened. I have also had great luck with the SMC bars...
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Old 11-24-2004, 03:32 PM
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I use Dean's 2.0 battery bars on the newer "shorty" 3300's. I dont have to flatten mine out. I use the Dean's battery jig and mine fit great.
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Old 11-24-2004, 06:06 PM
  #69  
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Not really sure if this is contributing to the thread in any way, but I am proud to say I will be switching over to AE from Losi soon .
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Old 11-24-2004, 06:51 PM
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Congrats! Ive always used AE, and i will never look elsewhere
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Old 11-24-2004, 09:34 PM
  #71  
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its the 3 series deans bars that cause problems
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Old 11-24-2004, 10:53 PM
  #72  
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Welcome to better cars, lol. I've had lots of good luck with all of my AE vehicles. The only ones I dont have (yet) are RC18 T, GT, MGT. I have always been an electric buggy fan. They are fast and very agile. There, that's my $.02!
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Old 11-24-2004, 11:22 PM
  #73  
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mike,

such a well respected racer joining the AE scene is a HUGE boost to us AE diehards welcome aboard! you've made my day hehe
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Old 11-25-2004, 06:48 AM
  #74  
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LOL, thanks for accepting me into the AE Group of racers guys .
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Old 11-27-2004, 11:14 PM
  #75  
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I guess I could say I'm an AE guy, I've got a Team TC3/Team NTC3 (Possibly on the way)/Team T4/FT GT/18T/and I'm about to pick up a B4...so yea, I need money.
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