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Old 07-14-2017, 05:24 AM   #2986
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Looking for a hcg again. Not sure why but the hcg always seems to work better for me than the lcg. I know it doesn't make sense but........
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Old 07-14-2017, 08:21 AM   #2987
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Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper View Post
I am building a Mudboss dirt oval racer from a new Traxxas Raptor. I purchased the aluminum caster blocks (3632A)and steering blocks (3636A). Traxxas does not provide any spacers or washers to go between these pieces. I think that's a bad idea for multiple reasons. What are you guys using between those parts?

Sorry if this sounds weird, im on my mobile. Anyways I understand your concern, however, id look into the anza racing castor blocks for racing
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Old 07-14-2017, 11:57 AM   #2988
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Looking for a hcg again. Not sure why but the hcg always seems to work better for me than the lcg. I know it doesn't make sense but........
Are you racing on a loose track? If so, the HCG does have an advantage with weight transfer. Remember the gasser cars that drag raced in the 60's? Nose in the air looked weird but helped transfer weight to the rear end which was helpful considering the slicks that were used at the time. On a tight corner, the chassis roll caused by the HCG prevents the truck from spinning out. Most of the weight of the truck is transferred to the outside tires, forcing them to bite in. We have some true race trucks, but once in a while my youngest son will run my Slash just for kicks. It's dialed for outdoor dust (took 3rd in 2wd Mod SCT in a major race this year lol) but we can stick the front sway bar on it and run competitively indoors too. With a couple trans mods, regearing the stock servo, and 2-stage pistons and linear-rate springs you can have your competition scratching their heads
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:13 AM   #2989
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Exactly what we have. I've also found for speed runs the hcg handls more speed before a blowover than an lcg.
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Old 07-17-2017, 11:06 AM   #2990
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One of my tracks is high traction clay, and the other is loose dirt.
The Loose dirt we are allowed to run Kumhos, and BF Goodrich tires.
I tried the strickly stock tires and they are too hard, those hard tires are for outdoors.
The hard packed clay track is open tires, so we can run anything we want!
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Old 07-21-2017, 04:37 PM   #2991
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Default 2wd Slash problems. Again!

Y'all were so helpful when I was installing my Velineon system in the Slash. So I thought I'd stop back and pick your brain again!

So I did the Velineon upgrade. I got proline shocks, the protrac kit, 2.8 trenchers, rpm caster blocks and turn buckles or whatever they're called lol.

I cannot find a good gearing. But I won't start another gearing thread! I tried 19/90, 17/90, 23/90, 19/86 and 23/86 and they were either too slow or got too hot. I run wide open 90% of the time... But anyway.......

There is a severe wobble. Everything looks okay except the rear tires have a severe toe in. Is that normal? I'm not crazy about the trenchers on pavement. Yes they hook great, but they seem too soft and balloon a lot!

Today I cracked the bulkhead and broke a proline control arm, but it was wobbly before that. The body shakes extremely bad at high speed and gets worse when you let off the trigger. What should I be looking for here? What could be bent? I've bashed the crap out of this thing!

I can upload pics if the site will allow me to. Thanks in advance for any help. Or feel free to tell me I'm an idiot. Haha
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Old 07-21-2017, 06:26 PM   #2992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gpitty View Post
Y'all were so helpful when I was installing my Velineon system in the Slash. So I thought I'd stop back and pick your brain again!

So I did the Velineon upgrade. I got proline shocks, the protrac kit, 2.8 trenchers, rpm caster blocks and turn buckles or whatever they're called lol.

I cannot find a good gearing. But I won't start another gearing thread! I tried 19/90, 17/90, 23/90, 19/86 and 23/86 and they were either too slow or got too hot. I run wide open 90% of the time... But anyway.......

There is a severe wobble. Everything looks okay except the rear tires have a severe toe in. Is that normal? I'm not crazy about the trenchers on pavement. Yes they hook great, but they seem too soft and balloon a lot!

Today I cracked the bulkhead and broke a proline control arm, but it was wobbly before that. The body shakes extremely bad at high speed and gets worse when you let off the trigger. What should I be looking for here? What could be bent? I've bashed the crap out of this thing!

I can upload pics if the site will allow me to. Thanks in advance for any help. Or feel free to tell me I'm an idiot. Haha
We gear for whatever track we're at, so the truck tops out at the end of the longest straight. Slashes come with 3 degrees of rear toe in. We've never broken a Protrac arm. We use aluminum bulkheads, but someone on another forum reviewed the RPM bulkhead and liked it.
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Old 07-21-2017, 06:37 PM   #2993
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I believe the protrac kit adds an additional degree of toe-in on the rear. So 4 degrees? Post a pic if you can.
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Old 07-21-2017, 06:47 PM   #2994
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Originally Posted by bubbaslash View Post
We gear for whatever track we're at, so the truck tops out at the end of the longest straight. Slashes come with 3 degrees of rear toe in. We've never broken a Protrac arm. We use aluminum bulkheads, but someone on another forum reviewed the RPM bulkhead and liked it.
Yeah that sounds about right on the toe. Not sure why it became wobbly all of a sudden. I was gonna order an aluminum bulkhead. Proline is awesome, even though it was my fault it broke, they're send me out a new arm!

But thanks for the reply. Since my thread was moved and I don't really feel like digging to find it in a general Slash thread, I'll just figure it out on my own or maybe try the Traxxas forum.
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Old 07-21-2017, 06:48 PM   #2995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
I believe the protrac kit adds an additional degree of toe-in on the rear. So 4 degrees? Post a pic if you can.
Yeah I remember hearing that, but it looks excessive to me
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Old 11-14-2017, 12:25 PM   #2996
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A while ago I saw someone stretch a traxxas 2wd slash and make a 1/5 or 1/6 sized buggy out of it.

My question is, can I shorten the slash 2wd lcg chassis a little bit if I switch to smaller battery. Part of me thought a stampede 2wd chassis might work for what I want, but I don't think they make lcg version.
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Old 11-14-2017, 06:18 PM   #2997
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could you use a foam block to take up the extra space with the smaller battery?
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Old 11-14-2017, 06:33 PM   #2998
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Originally Posted by a1 View Post
could you use a foam block to take up the extra space with the smaller battery?
I would like the whole chassis shorter, close to stampede wheelbase
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:16 PM   #2999
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Originally Posted by Dave_S View Post
I would like the whole chassis shorter, close to stampede wheelbase
So basically, you want the length of a Rustler chassis.

Just use a Rustler chassis.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:20 PM   #3000
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So basically, you want the length of a Rustler chassis.

Just use a Rustler chassis.
Is it lcg? You think it will work with jconcepts drag parts?
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