Good Electric Truggy
06-30-2011, 08:35 AM
#61
I had a losi 8ght 2.0 T RR converted and I sold it after use it about 5 minutes of bashing.
Shocks poured on top and bottom part, part of front wheel broke, and the rear differential produced a cracked sound every time I accelerated a lot. I opened this diff and I noticed that the teeth were crooked and worn.
I decided buy a xray xt8 truggy and I have never more had problems.
If I were you I'd buy a xt8 or d8t.
vlw
Shocks poured on top and bottom part, part of front wheel broke, and the rear differential produced a cracked sound every time I accelerated a lot. I opened this diff and I noticed that the teeth were crooked and worn.
I decided buy a xray xt8 truggy and I have never more had problems.
If I were you I'd buy a xt8 or d8t.
vlw
06-30-2011, 08:40 AM
#62
thanks for the input. Right now im leaning towards the rc8te. There is a guy with a good deal on it.
06-30-2011, 12:09 PM
#64
06-30-2011, 12:16 PM
#65
Well, you either did something wrong or had some weird freak defects.
The losi shocks work excellent, and do not leak that much when built correctly. Almost all offroad shocks leak to some degree. As far as the wheels cracking, that's because you did not set your epa on your radio correctly.
The diffs don't click if you shim them correctly....
The losi shocks work excellent, and do not leak that much when built correctly. Almost all offroad shocks leak to some degree. As far as the wheels cracking, that's because you did not set your epa on your radio correctly.
The diffs don't click if you shim them correctly....
06-30-2011, 01:33 PM
#66
Well, you either did something wrong or had some weird freak defects.
The losi shocks work excellent, and do not leak that much when built correctly. Almost all offroad shocks leak to some degree. As far as the wheels cracking, that's because you did not set your epa on your radio correctly.
The diffs don't click if you shim them correctly....
The losi shocks work excellent, and do not leak that much when built correctly. Almost all offroad shocks leak to some degree. As far as the wheels cracking, that's because you did not set your epa on your radio correctly.
The diffs don't click if you shim them correctly....
06-30-2011, 01:40 PM
#67
I had a similar experience with my truggy. I bought a used 8ight T 1.0 w/ tekno V3 kit. It was just totally worn out. I had to put new bearings, CVAs, suspension balls and ends... The mesh on the rear diff was off too and I stripped the pinion when I first got it. After I shimmed the diff and freshened it up it runs fine. It is a good truggy for my racing skill level. If I were to do it again, I would get a NEW Xray, Mugen, or Ofna. The money I put into the losi wasn't worth it.
well im glad i wasnt the only person that had the same expreience, but than again i should of knowed that because the drivetrain on the eights do wear quicker on their truggys if not well taken care of.
i couldnt believe that was a racer who owned it the way it was it was terrible .
06-30-2011, 04:44 PM
#69
I just picked up a Hyper 10TT and it's a blast. I haven't owned any other truggies yet, but so far I like driving it better than my short course truck. Probably going to go 1/8th scale when I get enough money together.
06-30-2011, 05:02 PM
#71
^^ that's nice! 
Here's my TT
Here's my TT
07-01-2011, 12:24 PM
#72
As mugen updated, so did Caster. New ones have different steering geometry, foams, chassis is longer, different body, new wing.....
2008-2011 have had annual improvements, we just choose to not rebadge our cars unless there is a complete redesign.
2008-2011 have had annual improvements, we just choose to not rebadge our cars unless there is a complete redesign.
07-01-2011, 12:44 PM
#73
thanks for the input. im between:
1.New Ofna 10tt
2.Caster f8t
3.RC8Te used with batteries and stuff.w/mamba max 2200kv.
4.used Upgraded Losi 8ight-t 2.0 electric with servo and batteries. w/tekin t8 2250kv
5.used Ofna Hyper ST converted to electric fully rtr. w/mamba max 2200kv
1.New Ofna 10tt
2.Caster f8t
3.RC8Te used with batteries and stuff.w/mamba max 2200kv.
4.used Upgraded Losi 8ight-t 2.0 electric with servo and batteries. w/tekin t8 2250kv
5.used Ofna Hyper ST converted to electric fully rtr. w/mamba max 2200kv
07-01-2011, 01:08 PM
#74
thanks for the input. im between:
1.New Ofna 10tt
2.Caster f8t
3.RC8Te used with batteries and stuff.w/mamba max 2200kv.
4.used Upgraded Losi 8ight-t 2.0 electric with servo and batteries. w/tekin t8 2250kv
5.used Ofna Hyper ST converted to electric fully rtr. w/mamba max 2200kv
1.New Ofna 10tt
2.Caster f8t
3.RC8Te used with batteries and stuff.w/mamba max 2200kv.
4.used Upgraded Losi 8ight-t 2.0 electric with servo and batteries. w/tekin t8 2250kv
5.used Ofna Hyper ST converted to electric fully rtr. w/mamba max 2200kv
Of those options I'd either go with the RC8TE, the Losi 8ight-T 2.0, or the Caster F8T. All are good for your needs.
07-01-2011, 04:52 PM
#75
just a suggestion: in order to keep electronic costs down, you could run some of the cheaper ez-run/xe-run stuff, and turnigy lipos. And yes, i do have lots of experience with these products, in both the racing and bashing segments. There is absolutely no motor stutter (for the sensorless versions), and the batteries perform well. you can find them here:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-c-combo-m3a.html
http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m802-4074-2150kv.html
http://www.hobbypartz.com/lipochargers.html
http://www.hobbypartz.com/gensace4s40c.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14983
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-c-combo-m3a.html
http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m802-4074-2150kv.html
http://www.hobbypartz.com/lipochargers.html
http://www.hobbypartz.com/gensace4s40c.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14983