Corey Bernardo

iTrader: (10)

Awesome sounds like you are enjoying the car!!!! As far as wanting to strengthen the front shock tower so it would help with breakage, you could double up the front shock tower... Something we did years back....

Corey Bernardo

iTrader: (10)

Okay guys I know I have been saying for the last couple days I was going to take the time to write out my xxx4 setup... So here it is a week late!


FRONT SUSPENSION:

Toe- 0
Camber- 1
Pivot Support- 7.5 block
Ride Height- Just below arms level (21mm)
Caster- Stock
Front Drive- Standard (Diff Tight)
Driveshafts- Steel CVDs
Over/Underdrive- 42F 42R (Standard Pulleys)
Sway Bar- No
Shock Position on tower- 2
Camber Link Position- 2
Shock Position on arm- inside
Camber link spacing- 2mm shim on hub camber link ball stud
Oil- 30weight
Piston- 56
Spring- Silver
Limiters- 2mm Inside


REAR SUSPENSION:

Toe-In- 2 degrees Inside. 0 outside
Pivot Support- -1R(-1) degree block
Ride Height- Arms level (22-23mm)
Camber- -1
Rear Drive- Composite Outdrives on Diff(TIGHT)
Sway Bar- Yes. Size : .055
Shock Position On Tower- 1
Shock Position On Arm- Inside
Oil- 27.5weight
Piston- 56
Spring- Pink
Limiters- None
Camber Link- 2
Camber Link on hub- B
Hub Spacing- Back

Lipo mounted all the way forward, with .5oz weight in front of battery mounting post.

6.5 Motor geared at 17/92

This is my setup without the steering mod. The car has loads of steering and handles fantastic, give it a try and let me know what you guys thing.

JNizza

are there any good aftermarket ones for it? and wat would the best material be to make it out of?

Corey Bernardo

iTrader: (10)

Double up the Carbon XXX4G+ stock towers......

JNizza

k, i will pick up 2 at my LHS today, any solutions to keep the wing from breaking? reinforcement or something?

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

JNizza- Amain Hobbies has aftermarket carbon fiber shock towers. They sell a standard thickness and an extra thick version.

Corey- I been wrenching for a good friend that has the XXX4g+. (I still run my XX4WE-CR/BL/Lipo and love it) But Jeff is really fast so I do the wrenching cause I'm really anal...lol.
Anyway, My basic XX4 setup is what I put on the XXX4 and it was very fast. Then we started reading the XXX4 threads and found out Frank's setup is very very close to mine, and I see yours is very close as well. So I guess I'm not so bad at tuning either
The main difference I see is that I prefer the red rr spring for clay hi-bite tracks. U might try it. You'll probably have to play with shock position on tower, maybe arm, but prolly not. Also, I put the XXX-CR rr arms and hubs on both cars. I like it better, but lap times weren't much faster. Mainly more consistent.
We went to LCDs in front and that did exactly what it was supposed to- smoother steering which translated to feeling like the car had more steering but didn't change the fr/rr balance
Next we tried the steering mod. It actually took steering throw away just a bit, but gave the car more steering. Again, it didn't really change the fr/rr bias, just gave a bit more and consistent steering feel. Helped laptimes.
This all on a small hi bite damp blue-grooved clay track where low speed steering is a MUST. We run either MC Suburbs or gold Bar Codes from and rear.
Last note- I found by using JRXS aluminum +.030 rr hexes we could run the new TLR buggy wheels front and rear. On the fronts, the 22 wheels look narrower, but actually the distance between the inner lip bead is only like .5mm narrower (don't remember exactly). The lip on the original Losi fr wheels is thicker making it look like it's much wider than it actually is.
Oh, on the rr wheels, the TLR22 wheels have a 5mm axle hole compared to the XXX4 axle which is 3/16" meaning it's a few hundredths bigger, but since it uses the hexes, it still centers perfectly when tight. FWIW, that was my first concern, but I used a bare wheel to check for runout, and it was fine. Checked it again after running and it was still true. Veeeeeery nice to b able to run the same wheels on both cars! In fact, I tested the 4wd fr gold bar codes on my TLR22 and they worked, but felt kinda funky so I went back to MC scrubs.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

BTW- Jeff's XXX4G+ with all the mods is for sale. Work is keeping hum from being able to race so he's selling out. Car only has about 6 battery packs through it and he put almost a lap on the local 4wd fast guy that recently won the regionals. Also has a custom paint job in perfect condition. All the lipo mods are done to it as well as the slipper with double shim to increase spring pressure, blue loctite, slipper plates scuffed with cross-hatch pattern for more bite, new MIP black C-CVD rr CVDs (2 battery packs on them), custom steering mod with the CNC c/f parts from the guy on teamlosi.com forum (can't remember his name) and literally HUNDREDS of dollars worth of parts- all new and most are NIP. He's asking $400. This car is wicked and perfect. He'll also include a Tekin RS Pro already installed on car that's only 6 batteries old as well for an extra $175. The car also has a new Futaba S4150 digital servo thats 6 battery packs old for $65. I think he mentioned he would take $625 for all 3 including the parts. If u do the math, that's a killer deal!
FWIW, I have over 18 hours of labor in this car building it, fixing all the issues (slipper, diffs etc etc) and custom mods. And I'm no jack leg. lol Anybody on here that knows me will tell u how anal I am

Corey Bernardo

iTrader: (10)

A lot easier to read, so I actually figured out how to fill out a sheet online ahah.
So here is my XXX4 setup again

J. Schwarz

iTrader: (51)

Decided to pull the spare TripleX Four...off the shelf and get the complete the steering mod. Started going through my parts and have two of the 7.5degree alloy front blocks, front and rear inner hinge pin blocks(alloy) and the rear alloy -1/3 degree block. So I should be good to go in that aspect.

questions:

I have a set of New LCD's for the front so I will likely use those
but I have a set of MIP Aluminum CVD's for the rear along with a set of steel universals. Which would be better to run for the rear and why?

Also plan to run the 22 big bore shocks on it, and will likely run with Corey or Franks set up to start...small indoor clay track, damp and high bite....thinking Rebar's with AKA Foams all around..or Bar Codes gold.......

Phelps

iTrader: (18)

John, i would go with the dogbones as the cvd's create to much bind. Try this setup for your big bores-

Front: 27 1/2 wt oil, drilled 55 pistons, silver springs, limiting i can't remember other than it was alot, 3mm to 5mm.

Rear: 22 1/2 wt oil, drilled 5-5-4-4 pistons, grey springs, unscrew shock bottoms 3mm and use 4mm limiting for up travel.

brent j

iTrader: (9)

My revitalised xxx4!!

Had a few small runs today before the rain . . seemed very capable! Looking forward to getting big bores for it!

Used the xxxCR rack for the steering mod.... works very well and has certainly improved the steering!

derbrylac

iTrader: (5)

Wow, finally a new xxx4 thread, thought I had the last of this things. Hadine for about a month now and haven't broken a thing. Bought all the necessary parts to make it stout the only thing is the steering mod, can't seem to find where the parts are. I also wonder why other sites carry the most parts for it.



Thanks, D

hondafixer

iTrader: (27)

just got my hands on one today and was wondering a few things. I plan on running an 8.5 for now. it has a 94 spur, where should i start with a pinion? Ive never owned a losi, so is there anything i should do off the start to it ? i have the stock shocks on it now, are the capable or are big bores needed?

RCHR Racer

iTrader: (2)

A 23/24 pinion is a good starting point. Stock shocks are capable as long as they are rebuilt and orings are smooth. I'll show you some trix next time you come to RCHR!

hondafixer

iTrader: (27)

that would be great, just alittle difficult living out in PA...i wish we had a track like u guys out here..last time i went, there were alot of cool peeps...i saw u,but u seemed buy so i didnt want to be one of "those guys" ..lol