CraigV

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About This Thread

The intent of this thread is to post specific information that should be added to the guide above. This sort of information includes specifications, build notes, resolutions to particular issues, upgrade/hop up information, tips, tricks, FAQs, etc.

This thread is not the place to start a discussion. If you would like to discuess the SC10 4x4, please user this thread.

This post will be updated in the morning, Monday to Friday. I am generally too busy to do it on the weekend.

If you have some info that you feel should be added to the guide, please post it here or PM me.


Index

1. Specs
   
2. Required to Complete
   
3. Tool Sizes
   
4. Manufacturer Links
   
5. Wheels
   
   • DE Racing releases specific SC10 4x4 wheels(6/07/2011)
     
6. Body
   
7. Gearing
   
8. Electronics
   
   1. Motors
      
   2. Speed Controls
      
9. Diff & Shock Info
   
10. Setup and Tuning Info
    
    1. Sway Bars
       
    2. Pullys
       
    3. Diff Oil
       
    4. Clicker
       
11. Aftermarket Parts
    
12. Build Notes & Tips
    
13. Known Issues and Fixes
    
    1. Aftermarket Wheels
       
    2. Servo Wire Length
       
    3. Diff Fluids
       
    4. Transmission Binding
       
    5. Shocks
       
    6. Page-Specific Notes
       
14. Videos
    
15. Files

1. Specs
Power Source: Electric
Terrain: Off-Road
Body Style: Truck
Scale Size: 1:10 Scale
Assembly Level: Kit*
Length: 550mm (21.65in)
Width: 293mm (11.54in)
Wheelbase: 327mm (12.87in)
Weight: 2775g (6.12 lbs)
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.57:1
Drive: 4WD
* This vehicle comes as a kit and must be fully assembled by the user. Electronics and/or an engine/motor may be required.

2. Required to Complete

• R/C 2-channel surface frequency radio system
• Battery pack (6 cell NiMh or 2 cell LiPo)
• Battery charger (peak detection charger recommended)
• Electronic speed control
• R/C electric motor (550 size recommended)
• Pinion gear
• Tire glue
• Paint for body
• Steering servo
• Differential Oil
• Shock Oil
• Servo Wire Extension
• Blue Loctite

3. Tool Sizes

• Nut Drivers
  • 5.5mm
  • 7mm
• Hex Driver
  • 2.5mm
  • 2.0mm
  • 1.5mm

• Turnbuckles
  • 4mm Wrench needed
  • 3.5mm rod

4. Manufacturer Links
Official AE Product Page
Specs
Manuals / Setups
Parts
Pictures/Videos

5. Wheels

• Does not use SC10 2wd wheels.
  
• Uses 12mm hex front/rear
  
• Front and rear wheels are the same
  
• Compatible wheels:
  
  • JConcepts Rulux
    
  • Pro-Line ProTrac (Some people are reporting that the ProLine ProTrac wheels do not fit very well and seem to be loose and wobbly)
    
  • It has been confirmed by several people that the Losi SCTE wheels are a direct fit, same offset and everything. (RaceCrafter)
    
  • DE Racing has new wheels made specifically for the SC10 4x4.
    

6. Body
Yes, the SC10 2wd body fits, it’s a direct drop on, no mods needed.

7. Gearing

• Comes with 32p and 48p spur gears.
  
• 32p recommended for 550s, 48p for 540s

Gearing Recommendation as per the instruction manual: (thanks to swimmerx7)


User Gearing Recommendations


8. Electronincs

8.a Motors

When using 540 motors, use the motor manufacturer's largest rotor option. For LRP 540 motors, this is the 13mm option.(Rick Howart)

• Novak Ballistic 550
  
  • Dimensions: Diameter 35.8mm x Length 72.1mm
    
  • Shaft DIameter: 5mm
    
  • Fits but it’s tight. Some people recommend shaving down the chassis a bit to make installation and removal easier
    
  • Fitting Novak 550 (The Jang @ UltimateRC.com)
    
• Viper 550
  
  • Dimensions: Diameter unknown x Length 72.1mm.
    
  • Viper states that they should fit fine
    
  • They are the same diameter as the Novaks, so they will be a tight fit
    
• Tekin SC4x
  
  • Dimensions: Diameter 36mm x Length 66mm
    
  • Shaft Diameter: 5mm
    
• Castle 1410 3800
  
  • Dimensions: Diameter 35.9mm x Length 53mm
    
  • Shaft Diameter: 3mm
    
  • To use 32p pinions with a 5mm hole a reducer is needed, such as part number 91161 from Team Associated
    
• LRP X-12L 550
  
  • Dimensions: Diameter 35.8mm x Length 66mm
    
  • Shaft Diameter: 5mm
    
  • Can be run as sensored or sensorless
    
  • Designed to fit in the SC10 4x4
    
• Reedy 550-SL
  
  • Dimensions: Diameter 36mm x Length 55mm
    
  • Shaft Diameter: 5mm
    
  • Sensorless
    
  • Designed to fit in the SC10 4x4
    
• Reedy Sonic 550
  
  • Dimensions: Diameter 35.8mm x Length 66mm
    
  • Shaft Diameter: 5mm
    
  • Can be run as sensored or sensorless
    
  • Designed to fit in the SC10 4x4
    
• Trinity D3 Monster Horsepower SC motors
  
  • Dimensions: Diameter 35.75mm x Length 65.1mm
    
  • Shaft Diameter: 5mm
    

8.a Speed Controls

Castle Sidewinder SC/SV2
Spoke with Castle about the SCT system esc getting hot. Here is what they said

1. Mount the esc up high (I mounted mine on rear shock tower) and put holes in window to allow air flow. Esc is pretty light so should be too much problem with weight up high. Castle said you can see 30 to 40 degree temp drops this way. They said fan on esc doesn't have nearly the same Cfm as holes in window.
   
2. Motor temps should never be an issue if geared properly.

I ran this setup last night with no temp issues (cota4rt)

9. Diff & Shock Info

Stock shock oil:

• Front – 30wt, PN 5422
• Rear – 25wt, PN 5428

Stock Diff's come filled with 3000wt oil. Most setup sheets recommend 5000wt.

Stock Springs and Rates

• Stock Front – Blue (Short), 4.3LB
• Stock Rear – Blue (Long), 2.8LB

Shock Piston sizes:

• #11 - 1.1mm - PN 91065
• #12 - 1.2mm - PN 91065
• #13 - 1.3mm - PN 91065

All three sizes are included in the kit. #12 is what the manual recommends.

Diff fluid starting points
*** PEOPLE ARE REPORTING THAT THE DIFFS ARE COMING WITH NO OR A VERY LOW AMOUNT OF DIFF FLUID. OPEN UP YOUR DIFFS AND MAKE SURE THERE IS ENOUGH OIL IN THEM!! ***

• Current Setup sheets all say 5000wt

10. Setup and Tuning Info
Ride height
Measure from between the center/front chassis and center/rear chassis.

10a Sway Bars
I PMd Rick Howart on May 9, 2011 about the availability of sway bars. His response was: "It looks like sometime later this month for the bars. The truck is easier to drive without them but faster with them."

10b Pullys
If you run the 19t overdrive clicker it will make your front tires pull more then the rear allowing you more throttle out of the corner especially on loose tracks

10c Diff Oil
Some notes on using 60k weight oil in the front are here and here.

10d Clicker
The clicker is best used in either an on or off mode. This means either turn it all the way locked down, or loosen it right up.(Rick_Howart)
Most people will be faster with the clicker locked in almost all instances even if feel you have less steering. You will more than make up for this with the ability to brake harder and/or more effectively.(Rick_Howart)

11. Aftermarket Parts

• AE's list of optional parts and accessories
• Titanium Turnbuckles - As of 5/16/2010 there are no titanium turnbuckle kits available. However, you can make your own using these part numbers: (lockmouth)
  • Lunsford part number 11073 measures out to: 63.5mm .... Stock is 65mm
  • Lunsford part number 11078 measures out to: 79.37mm .... Stock is 80mm

12. Build Notes & Tips
General Info:
If you are missing any parts from your kit, call AE customer support at (949) 544-7500. You can email them at [email protected] but will get a better, faster response if you call them.

Build Videos
15 minute time lapse build video from SaladFork.
6 minute time lapse build video from jjlove.

13. **** Known Issues and Fixes ****

13a Wheels

Some aftermarket wheels are too thick to allow the stock lock nut to thread all the way to the nylon (ProLine ProTracs for example). This prevents the locking action from happening. Serrated nuts can be used to lock into the wheel.
This is also a good idea to use on stock wheels as well, since the nut will come loose eventually.

• ProLine ProTrac. (Some people are reporting that the ProLine ProTrac wheels do not fit very well and seem to be loose and wobbly.)
• DE Racing, any wheels that fit the Losi SCTE should fit the SC10 4x4 just fine.

13b Servo Wire

• Problem:
  • The servo wires WILL NOT reach the receiver box.
• Resolutions:
  1. Use a servo extension wire
  2. Don't use the receiver box, mount the receiver closer to the front of the truck

Servos verifid as being too short:

• Associated XP DS1015 (use horn "F") (Rick Howart)
• Associated XP DS1313 (use horn "F") (Rick Howart)
• Hitec HSC-5998TG
• JR 9100S
• Savox 1267MG
• Spektrum S6040
• JR 8800

Servos verified as having a long enough wire:

• Hitec 7955TG
• Hitec 965MG
• Hitec 985MG
• JR 8611
• JR 8711
• Savox 1258TG
• Savox 1256TG

13c Diff Fluid levels are too low

• Problem:
  • The oil level in the pre-assembled front and rear diffs is too low.
• Resolutions:
  1. Open up the diffs and add more oil

13d Transmission Case binds

• If the rear transmission case binds, use a washer on all three screws, not just the top two (as per page 13 in the build manual). Be sure not to over-tighten them there screws
  check the front gearbox screws. There are three screws for the front gearbox, two are 24mm and one is 26mm. I accidentally put the 26mm for the lower screw. This caused the screw to come through the other side and bind the front clicker pulley flange 91013, causing unwanted tension.
• First thing, take the wheels off. Then take the belt, the clicker and the slipper off. Even take the cva's out of the outrives. Now check and spin the topshaft o the front and rear. If you feel any resistance in the rear, the motor plate it too tight. Threadlock the ends of the bolts, snug them down and back them off a half turn. It should now be super free. In the front, if there is any binding, the belt cover is too tight, snug it up, and again back it of a half turn, make sure to notice if the bolts are protruding out of the plastic on the inside of the belt cover, it could rub on the clicker causing bindin as well. it should feel nice and free now. Also put some diff grease on between the two halves of the clicker, making it smoother. Now put the belt on. symmetricon

13e Shocks
The screw inside the shocks that holds the piston to the shaft may not be tight enough, and will come loose.
Apply some thread lock to the shock piston screw. Doing so will help prevent the piston from falling off, and ruining your shocks.

[b]13f Dirt Getting into Spur/Pinion Gear
How the junk gets in is from a motor mount adjustment slot.
Looking from the motor side of the mount towards the front of the motor you can see the slot is open. It's easier to see when the gear cover is off.
Fix, from the spur side on a bit of tape to cover the holes after you have set the gear mesh.(tmail55)

10f Page-Specifc Notes

Page 1:
Yes, you can skip the servo install and continue building the kit. (RacerMike).

Skip ahead to page 8. On page 10 leave the belt cover off of the front transmission and mount the trans by itself in the front chassis plate. You can also install the front shock tower and suspension, shocks, body mount.
When you get the servo and build the assembly it will drop right on, put the belt cover and clicker on and slide the front chassis assembly onto your finished center/rear section.
(RacerMike)

Use threadlock on the servo horn screw.

Page 4
The front inner body mount #91004 attaches to the front chassis brace #91014. Each side of the brace has two small holes next to the inner body mount that can be plugged with small setscrews. (Troy_Konitzer)


Page 7
Make sure to apply a small amount of black grease on the servo saver halves before building the servo saver.

Page 8
Use a bit of Green Slime, #1105, on the 91005 paper diff seal to help prevent fluid leakage from the differentials.

Page 9, 12:
Open up the pre-assembled diffs and check the fluid level. Lots of people have reported that they are empty or very low on fluid. Probably a good idea to buy some extra fluid when buying the kit.

Page 10
Check the front gearbox screws. There are three screws for the front gearbox, two are 24mm and one is 26mm. I accidentally put the 26mm for the lower screw. This caused the screw to come through the other side and bind the front clicker pulley flange 91013, causing unwanted tension. (stvnmccc)
Grease the front clicker to quiet it down (racer1812)

Page 10, 13
The screws for the rear transmission case, #89226 (M3x26) and #89225 (M3x24), do not have to be completely tightened down. They just have to be snug enough to hold the motor plate. Over tightening can cause drag in the drive train. Be sure to use Factory Team thread lock #1596 before installing the screws as well!

Page 11
When assembling the clicker assembly apply a drop of CA to the nylon on the adjustment nut. This will help to prevent the nut from backing off. Also use a small amount of black grease on the clicker teeth to keep it quiet.

Page 13
Add 1 ball stud washer, #9630, on each of the M3x26 and M3x24 transmission case screw.

Page 14:
Page 14 Camber link hole, use outer rather than inner. (mca).
Confirmed by Chris Jarosz: "The manual is incorrect. You will want to run the ballstud on the outer hole in the front."

Page 14, 15
Use a very small dab of threadlock to hold the threaded ball stud inserts, #91021, into the shock towers.
Make sure to apply some thread lock on the inner ball studs pages 14 & 15. This will help prevent them from loosening up while running.

Page 16, 20
Use a very-very small drop of CA on the wheel hex pins #91027. This helps keep the pins in the axles when you remove the wheels or remove the hexes.

Page 18
Be extra careful to use the correct screws to hold on the front hinge pin brace! Double check that they are 10mm long ones, #25620 and not 12mm in the rest of that part of the build. Using too long of screws can cause the front transmission to bind.

Page 21
Make sure to apply some thread lock to the shock piston screw. Doing so will help prevent the piston from falling off.
Remove the upper X-Ring, #91055, this will free up the shocks and takes a lot of the stiction away and the shocks will feel much smoother. Don’t forget that the shock cartridge seal tube is directional!
If you are running without shock boots, #91070, on the shocks, you must add up travel limiters to avoid damaging the bladder.

Bladder vs Emulsion
A bladder shock will have more pack than an emulsion shock, with the same oil and same piston...but thats because the oil doesn't become an emulsified froth in a bladder shock. When the air and oil mix it becomes "lighter" in viscosity. While going lighter in oil increases traction and decreases pack, it does so equally in both style shocks, just far more consistently in a bladder shock as there's no way to correctly gauge the amount of air is actually in your emulsion build, and there's also no changing from start to finish as the oil and air are in different stages of emulsion.

Having a bladder allows you to build your shocks with more, and more consistent rebound. Faster rebound creates more traction as it keeps your tire on the racing surface. It also keeps your shocks consistent from start to finish of a race, as the air and oil never mix.
(Ridley)

Page 22
Bleeding the shocks when building them with bladders:
Fill the shock with oil and move the shaft halfway up. Next put the bladder on, you might have to push down a bit to help it seat better. Now screw the cap on completely. Wipe the excess oil off and you're done. (Chris Jarosz)
When running bladders, you can remove the bleeder screw to reduce the air-spring effect caused by the air being trapped above the bladder.

Shocks:
I suggest taking all 4 shocks apart because including myself, 3 people had a problem with the screw coming off the top of the shock shaft that holds the piston on. It came off on one of my shocks so I checke them all and they were loose. Nothing a lil loctite can't fix. (novak12)

Page 27
If you are having major problems with not being able to get the slipper tightened down, put 2 shims after the thrust washer and problem is SOLVED!! The thrust washer was machined too thin causing the problem. (JoeC)

Page 28
What the manual doesn't explain is that if you use the optional 19t pulley the described tensioner settings will allow the belt to be loose. (RaceCrafter)
Use the high-torque slipper pad, #91170, on the outer slipper hub only when using 550 motors.

Page 29
From the spur side of the motor mount, stick on a bit of tape to cover the motor adjustment slot holes after you have set the gear mesh to prevent dirt from getting in.(tmail55)

Page 39
Can use HPI or Traxxas wheel nuts when using ProLine (or any) wheel. These nuts have serrated edge to lock into the wheel.
Adding thread lock will help the wheels nuts from backing off during operation.

14. Videos

• LiveRC interview with SC10 4x4 Designer
  
• SC10 4x4 Product Video
  
• Team Assoicated Misc videos (search for sc10 4x4 to find relavent videos)
  
• build video by The Jang at UltimateRC.com
  
• The Jang from UltimateRc.com
  
  • Unboxing
    
  • Build Video
    
    • Part 1
      
    • Part 2
      
    • Part 3
      
    • Part 4
      
    • Part 5
      
  • Initial Review
    
  • First Easy Drive
    
  • On the Track Day 2
    
  • On the Track Test #3
    
  • Associated SC10 4x4 track day #4 - Castle 1410 3800kv
    
  • Fitting Novak 550
    

15. Files

• Instruction Manual
• Exploded View
• Blank Editable Setup Sheet
  
  • Chris Jaroz - JConcepts Spring Indoor Nats, 04/17/2011, Dry, no dust
  • Jason Ruona, JConcepts Spring Indoor Nats, 04/17/2011, Blue groove
  • Kurt Wenger, OCRC and West Coast RC, 01/01/2011, no track info given, no rollbar
• Parts List

CraigV

iTrader: (1)

About This Thread

The intent of this thread is to post specific information that should be added to the guide above. This sort of information includes specifications, build notes, resolutions to particular issues, upgrade/hop up information, tips, tricks, FAQs, etc.

This thread is not the place to start a discussion. If you would like to discuess the SC10 4x4, please user this thread.

This post will be updated in the morning, Monday to Friday. I am generally too busy to do it on the weekend.

If you have some info that you feel should be added to the guide, please post it here or PM me.

Thanks,

Craig

Khromadin

iTrader: (31)

Very well done.

slappomatt

Wish I read this before building mine... LOTS of good info in here.

McCracken

iTrader: (9)

thanks man

DE Racing

iTrader: (1)

Thought all the SC10 4x4 users out there should know that DE Racing has released a specific wheel for this model.

The Losi Ten-SCTE wheel will work, but the offset makes the truck a little narrow and the wheel in not nearly as stong due to the decreased internal ribbing.

We purpose built the wheel as any OEM replacement for the SC10 4x4 and SC10 RS. Its not a wheel that kinda fits like some other manufacturers wheels.

They can be found here: http://www.deracing.net/store/index....product_id=160

White and silver will be available soon, but for now its black.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

[b]13f Dirt Getting into Spur/Pinion Gear
How the junk gets in is from a motor mount adjustment slot.
Looking from the motor side of the mount towards the front of the motor you can see the slot is open. It's easier to see when the gear cover is off.
Fix, from the spur side on a bit of tape to cover the holes after you have set the gear mesh.

UPDATE! :-)

Seems this is a problem when using a 540 motor not a 550 motor AND small spur/ pinion.

sullypro08

iTrader: (11)

Why no temp specs for the Tekin? No worries or what? Just wondering. Does anyone know what the temp range I should look out for? Anything over say 190?

eyeflyhelis

iTrader: (1)

anyone ever pull temp checks on the sc10 4x4? im running a mambapro esc and motor and pulling 190. seems kind of high. measured on top of can dead square in the center.

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

Holy necro bump!!!