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Old 05-14-2011, 05:47 AM
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Default SC10 help needed

I need to find new shocks but i don't know what shocks are the best for SC10.
Also, i have the reedy brushless that comes stock with the sc10 brushless but it keeps overheating when i use it. Any suggestions?
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:05 AM
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Why do you want new shocks? I just rebuilt my v1's with the rebuild kit and they are working fine. You can upgrade to v2 shocks but I wonder if you will actually see any improved performance. It seems like all shocks leak and need periodic rebuilding. After rebuilding the first shock, the next 3 went much faster. Do not believe I am having overheating problems with my brushless. Will leave that subject to someone with more experience. Good luck.
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Old 05-14-2011, 07:38 AM
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The Ae shocks perform best for your SC10....
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Old 05-14-2011, 07:44 AM
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To get the best performance out of your associated V1 rtr shocks:

1. remove the stock shocks
2. set them aside
3. Buy losi XXX-T shocks.
4. install them on your sc10
5. discard the associated shocks

Enjoy!
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:51 PM
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The oil keeps leeking out of the shocks. I have refilled them 3 times. Is this a sign that they need to be rebuilt or replaced?
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SC10 man
The oil keeps leeking out of the shocks. I have refilled them 3 times. Is this a sign that they need to be rebuilt or replaced?
Yep, time to rebuild. Kit costs $4 for all 4 shocks. There is a larger black o ring that goes on the top cap. There are 2 smaller red o rings that go inside the shock body. There should be instructions included in rebuild kit. Let us know if you need any help.
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Murray100
Yep, time to rebuild. Kit costs $4 for all 4 shocks. There is a larger black o ring that goes on the top cap. There are 2 smaller red o rings that go inside the shock body. There should be instructions included in rebuild kit. Let us know if you need any help.
i'd search but im lazy...have a link to the rebuild kits?
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:36 PM
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If your rebuilding make sure to lube up the o-rings with some shock oil or the thick diff oil. When putting on the rod ends use tape around the pliers or grab them as far down as possible. Make sure not to scratch the shafts, that will cause the o-ring to leak. Also dont cross thread the caps. It happens. ive never had them leak, but not doing these steps is why they say they do. hope it helps.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RxstRfan
If your rebuilding make sure to lube up the o-rings with some shock oil or the thick diff oil. When putting on the rod ends use tape around the pliers or grab them as far down as possible. Make sure not to scratch the shafts, that will cause the o-ring to leak. Also dont cross thread the caps. It happens. ive never had them leak, but not doing these steps is why they say they do. hope it helps.
Great tips. Definitely protect the shafts when removing the rod ends or whatever they are called. I used duct tape on my pliers and made sure it did not tear and scratch the shock shaft. Green slime is the associated grease you can get to lube all the parts when assembling. I read that is better than shock oil for lubing o rings.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:56 PM
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+1 for green slime.

You can upgrade to the v2 shocks, less rebuilding and seem to hold up a lil better.
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:44 PM
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The V2 shocks are great, the rebuild is simple and the design is such that it virtually eliminates the leaking problem. Dont taint the Associated product with other brand shocks. May not be much difference in performance from V2 to V1, but the reliability of the V2 is better. The V1 could break down inside during a race, which would be bad. The ESC heating issue is mostly likely gearing, depending on available funds I would go with the Version two lrp ESC and LRP motor. I run the LRP SXX comp and an 8.5 LRP with the sintered rotor. Hope it helps.
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:59 PM
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Looks like you got some pretty good answers...

From now on, please post questions like these in the chassis specific threads...

Here is the SC10 thread....

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ld-thread.html
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