fullsyzz

iTrader: (121)

8 ball thrust assembly is nice. What size are the thrust balls? They look smaller than 5/64. And the 12 main diff balls appear to be 3/32? Anyone know for sure?

ViGiLaNtE351

iTrader: (10)

They are 1/16 and 3/32 tungsten carbide.

Cheers

alana07

iTrader: (53)

by chance, is the slipper spring caught on the main layshaft somewhere, such that it isn't pressing fully onto the slipper plate?

ViGiLaNtE351

iTrader: (10)

Nah its a large diameter spring and is compressed centrally.

I fitted up AE clutch pack, and its still doing it.
Will have to take the diff apart and see what happening in there. Im out of ideas. Never had an issue with a slipper clutch before.

Cheers

hacker

iTrader: (141)

is the spring fully compressed when the nut is done all the way? If not fully compressed, add a spacer in between the spring/nut.

ViGiLaNtE351

iTrader: (10)

Fully compressed.

I took the diff apart, and it seems one diff ring has a groove in it coz i had it too tight to begin with.

Turned it around, and have began cleaning all the week-old lube out. Will finish it tonight after work. I may of had TOO much lube in there, I dont know, ive built over a dozen ball diffs and never had an issue. Ill start fresh tonight, and triple check all my work.

Cheers

CODMAN

Don't forget to break it in once built.

ViGiLaNtE351

iTrader: (10)

Yeah i used RACER53 sticky on Diff and Ball diff setup etc. I think i may of put too much lube in possibly, but you can never have too much lube!

Cheers

CODMAN

I have no idea what racer53 is... (getting old)... i,d strongly suggest using the kit lubes (or AE greases). Black trhust lube on the thrust, and the clear diff lube on the rings. Just enough so everything is coated. Then break it in.
Also, I'd highly recommend tyou adjust the diff initially on the tight side (without over tightening it of course). Then get the slipper set... Then loosen the diff gradually untill it starts to slip... it's the only way I know of to learn that sweet spot on a new diff setup...

Just my 0.02$! Hope you get it all sorted!

rosko

Anyone run their car on indoor clay track yet.

mes

Naoto Matsukura at the Yatabe Arena maybe?

mes

Is the B-Max4 stabilizer set a direct fit and do you need any other parts that are not included in the kit?

ViGiLaNtE351

iTrader: (10)

RACER53 is a who, not a what lol.. here is his Sticky Note

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html

I have all the right lubes, and grease. Have a look at his tips, seems to be on the money. I have followed it to the tee, and i still cannot get the car to stop slipping no matter how tight the slipper spring is and the diff is nice and tight. I have got it as good as i can get it where it will slip about a foot /half which isnt too bad, but as its pretty much fully tightened, i have trouble making doubles off a corner as i cant build the instant speed necessary to make the jumps.

Is anyone else having same problem? I feel like im failing at this, but ive built so many ball diffs, mostly AE ones, and NEVER NEVER had a slipping clutch when fully tightened. I have set the diff spot on, as per the link above, not too tight, not too loose, so it cant be the diff.

Ive used the Yokomo slipper pads, and now I changed to the AE slipper pads, but still no change. Currently its satisfactory, but i can tell that its not going to be fantastic on race day.

Cheers

fullsyzz

iTrader: (121)

I've only got 15 minutes of track time on mine, but I have no issues with the diff or slipper.

hacker

iTrader: (141)

are you 100% sure its the slipper?