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Old 08-18-2011, 12:31 PM   #106
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Still having a couple of problems with the annotations on youtube...ugh...
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:35 PM   #107
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HERE THE NEW VERSIONS ARE

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:15 PM   #108
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I used your old video's yesterday for my xxx-t. Worked awesome. I've never seen my truck wheelie until I used your technique. Btw I'm using an old school brushed motor
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Old 08-20-2011, 02:42 AM   #109
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Great write up and videos mate.

Also, you can turn the beeping off on the MX3X, just need to go into the 2nd setup menu.
Gotta hold down two of the buttons while you turn it on.
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Old 08-20-2011, 05:56 AM   #110
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Quote:
I used your old video's yesterday for my xxx-t. Worked awesome. I've never seen my truck wheelie until I used your technique. Btw I'm using an old school brushed motor
Good, I'm glad your truck works better...
Quote:
Great write up and videos mate.

Also, you can turn the beeping off on the MX3X, just need to go into the 2nd setup menu.
Gotta hold down two of the buttons while you turn it on.
Got it, thanks...

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Old 08-20-2011, 11:20 PM   #111
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Best way to break it in is Run it at around half throttle on a high bite surface for 3 minutes ... pop the camber link and tighten it and then back off an 1/8th of a turn.

I like to take an old dog bone and cut it in half and use a drill to break it in "slave style" If your in the middle of a competition. Use Carbide balls ALWAYS
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:07 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notch johnson View Post
Best way to break it in is Run it at around half throttle on a high bite surface for 3 minutes ... pop the camber link and tighten it and then back off an 1/8th of a turn.

I like to take an old dog bone and cut it in half and use a drill to break it in "slave style" If your in the middle of a competition. Use Carbide balls ALWAYS
There is no "best way", only personal preference.

Though I don't see the point of doing it "slave" style. You mean so you don't have interference with other radios? With 2.4ghz it's not usually ever a problem, though it's good track etiquette to turn and keep your radio off in the pits.

Why use Carbide ALWAYS? Once again, it's all about personal preference.

Racer53, the new videos are great. I like that there is actual humor. The sound quality is ten times better. I will be getting a pro kit from B-Fast soon. I love the yellow links! You know there were a set of those same Rolux wheels on sale for $2 at one of my hobby shop's clearance bin (four rear wheels in yellow) for the B4. Don't know if that was a good deal or not, but seemed like it.
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Old 08-21-2011, 04:50 AM   #113
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do any of you guys use a caged thrust bearing. I noticed on avid website that the have thrust bearings and was looking to get a couple for my kyosho cars, but i am not sure on the correct size. that is the one part about building a diff that i hate, is building the thrust bearing. Thank you racer53 for the videos and your time putting this info up.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:04 PM   #114
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the transmission binding due to tightening the gear case too much is life saver; thank you so much for sharing that little insight AE manual doesn't mention anything about this for B4.1/SC10 and both these cars I've been running with motors getting in the hot zone; loosened up the gear case screws and voila; presto

also a big thumbs up for showing how to adjust the slipper and diff screw; when first testing the slipper I heard a barking sound instead of slipping; now I know that it was the diff slipping thanks to your pointers; rebuild the diff using the videos above and adjusted; now the car does as it supposed to; what a difference

thanks again for sharing with with the community!
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Old 08-22-2011, 03:00 PM   #115
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Quote:
Best way to break it in is Run it at around half throttle on a high bite surface for 3 minutes ... pop the camber link and tighten it and then back off an 1/8th of a turn.

I like to take an old dog bone and cut it in half and use a drill to break it in "slave style" If your in the middle of a competition. Use Carbide balls ALWAYS
You use your way, I'll use mine...

Good Luck, Racer53
Quote:
There is no "best way", only personal preference.

Though I don't see the point of doing it "slave" style. You mean so you don't have interference with other radios? With 2.4ghz it's not usually ever a problem, though it's good track etiquette to turn and keep your radio off in the pits.

Why use Carbide ALWAYS? Once again, it's all about personal preference.

Racer53, the new videos are great. I like that there is actual humor. The sound quality is ten times better. I will be getting a pro kit from B-Fast soon. I love the yellow links! You know there were a set of those same Rolux wheels on sale for $2 at one of my hobby shop's clearance bin (four rear wheels in yellow) for the B4. Don't know if that was a good deal or not, but seemed like it.
Thanks for the comments, that is a great deal on the Rulux rims, the retail for around $10 for 4...
Quote:
do any of you guys use a caged thrust bearing. I noticed on avid website that the have thrust bearings and was looking to get a couple for my kyosho cars, but i am not sure on the correct size. that is the one part about building a diff that i hate, is building the thrust bearing. Thank you racer53 for the videos and your time putting this info up.
I personally don't have any experience with them, if they work be sure and let us know...Thanks for the comment...
Quote:
the transmission binding due to tightening the gear case too much is life saver; thank you so much for sharing that little insight AE manual doesn't mention anything about this for B4.1/SC10 and both these cars I've been running with motors getting in the hot zone; loosened up the gear case screws and voila; presto

also a big thumbs up for showing how to adjust the slipper and diff screw; when first testing the slipper I heard a barking sound instead of slipping; now I know that it was the diff slipping thanks to your pointers; rebuild the diff using the videos above and adjusted; now the car does as it supposed to; what a difference

thanks again for sharing with with the community!
That's probably the number one mistake people make with the tranny case, most people just torque it down without thinking about it...Glad you got it figured out...

Good Luck, Racer53
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Old 08-22-2011, 03:09 PM   #116
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NEW VIDEO FROM RACER53

"Four Common Sounds From The Transmission"
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Let me know what you guys think...

Racer53
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Old 08-22-2011, 05:21 PM   #117
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That was great! I liked it. No shock oil in the shocks, I am guessing. I love the blue RPM, though I would never run it.

So when I went to the track 2 weeks ago, I set my truck on the ground and it wouldn't get up to speed whatsoever. Sounded exactly like the slipper slipping, tightened and tightened the slipper nothing happened. Tightened the diff and helped a lot, a guy came to look at my truck to help me (my radio didn't work well with the Savox servo, cutting out) felt my diff after I had already tightened it down about 2-3 or so turns and said it was loose. Took my truck and tightened it how much it needed to be tightened and that was that. I never got to drive my truck slowly that much because I was frantic trying to figure things out, but the diff still feels nice. I just don't get why it never "barked" but sounded like a slipper, though the slipper needed to be turned way more than 3 1/2 turns from sitting flush (I have to check it again when I get my new DX3C).

So after the 3 races, should I tighten the diff maybe a 1/16 of a turn?

One other thing, when I was oiling my bearings in the transmission. I tried to take the seal off of the smaller black shielded bearing but it was basically a plastic. Why would they do that? I actually had to get the seal off of one because a couple of my tips of an X-Acto knife broke off in it trying to get it off. So now when I have to rebuild my diff I'll replace the bearing. I just don't get why they did that. I do want a Boca ceramic set, but woah. Expensive.
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:31 PM   #118
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Thanks for the Tutorial! I used all of your instructions to build my diff over the last couple days ( building a whole kit from scratch), and just ran my car. Amazing, super super smooth. Thanks a TON!
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:20 AM   #119
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Quote:
That was great! I liked it. No shock oil in the shocks, I am guessing. I love the blue RPM, though I would never run it.

So when I went to the track 2 weeks ago, I set my truck on the ground and it wouldn't get up to speed whatsoever. Sounded exactly like the slipper slipping, tightened and tightened the slipper nothing happened. Tightened the diff and helped a lot, a guy came to look at my truck to help me (my radio didn't work well with the Savox servo, cutting out) felt my diff after I had already tightened it down about 2-3 or so turns and said it was loose. Took my truck and tightened it how much it needed to be tightened and that was that. I never got to drive my truck slowly that much because I was frantic trying to figure things out, but the diff still feels nice. I just don't get why it never "barked" but sounded like a slipper, though the slipper needed to be turned way more than 3 1/2 turns from sitting flush (I have to check it again when I get my new DX3C).

So after the 3 races, should I tighten the diff maybe a 1/16 of a turn?

One other thing, when I was oiling my bearings in the transmission. I tried to take the seal off of the smaller black shielded bearing but it was basically a plastic. Why would they do that? I actually had to get the seal off of one because a couple of my tips of an X-Acto knife broke off in it trying to get it off. So now when I have to rebuild my diff I'll replace the bearing. I just don't get why they did that. I do want a Boca ceramic set, but woah. Expensive.
A diff can sound like a sliper clutch if it is extremelly loose...So that could have been what you heard...

I would thighten it about 1/16th of a turn after a couple of races...Basically the diff is getting settled in and can loosen a little bit...

Personally if my rubber sealed bearing start to get rough I just replace them...They are extremelly cheap and work just fine for me...In my opinion ceramic bearings are unecessary...But to each his own...

Good Luck,Racer53
Quote:
Thanks for the Tutorial! I used all of your instructions to build my diff over the last couple days ( building a whole kit from scratch), and just ran my car. Amazing, super super smooth. Thanks a TON!
Thanks for the kind words...

Good Lcuk, Racer53
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:46 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NLpurplelambo43 View Post
(my radio didn't work well with the Savox servo, cutting out) .
Your radio isn`t the problem , Savox servos are notorious for being power hungry and the internal BEC on most 1/10 ESCs cut out . Get a Novak or Racer`s Edge glitch buster and plug it into an empty spot on your receiver . That will fix the cutting out .
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