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Old 06-17-2011, 06:54 AM   #61
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great info. I will be pulling down my diff this weekend. By the way got the link from Caster racing site from a racer in Lithuania it's getting out there good work
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:07 AM   #62
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great info. I will be pulling down my diff this weekend. By the way got the link from Caster racing site from a racer in Lithuania it's getting out there good work
Cool...Thanks for reading...

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Old 06-18-2011, 07:28 PM   #63
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Great info. Thanks for doing the video's (hopefully the next ones will have better sound )
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Old 06-18-2011, 07:47 PM   #64
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Great videos and thank you for them

Just a noob question when setting the slipper does the same settings you explained translate to 4WD slipper and or double slipper? I have a Tamiya DB01 with a double slipper and I am not sure it is set correctly.
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:52 AM   #65
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What are some indications on the track that the slipper clutch is too tight or too loose? That's my problem. If the rear end breaks loose accelerating from a dead stop should I loosen my slipper until my truck pulls away straight? Track conditions are normally dusty.
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:22 PM   #66
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Great info. Thanks for doing the video's (hopefully the next ones will have better sound )
Anytime...I eventually hope to redo the videos with better sound, and again apologize for the sound...
Quote:
Great videos and thank you for them

Just a noob question when setting the slipper does the same settings you explained translate to 4WD slipper and or double slipper? I have a Tamiya DB01 with a double slipper and I am not sure it is set correctly.
Anytime...I'm going to be completely honest and say I have little expirience with 4wd drive vehicles...I would check out the B44 thread or the Losi 4wd buggies thread...
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What are some indications on the track that the slipper clutch is too tight or too loose? That's my problem. If the rear end breaks loose accelerating from a dead stop should I loosen my slipper until my truck pulls away straight? Track conditions are normally dusty.
With those symptoms I would loosen the slipper about a fourth of a turn and try again until you can pull straight away...Another thing to check would be the shock angle on the rear arms and possible the Anti-Squat...

Thanks for all replies...

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Old 06-19-2011, 03:47 PM   #67
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Thanks, shock angle on arms, anti-squat.
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Old 06-25-2011, 02:17 PM   #68
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Great vids....helped me out a ton, got my diff all straightened out...smooth as silk now. THANX A TON!!!
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:50 PM   #69
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Thanks, shock angle on arms, anti-squat
Correct...To get more controlled acceleration, move the shocks out a notch on the rear arms...Or add a little anti-squat...

Quote:
Great vids....helped me out a ton, got my diff all straightened out...smooth as silk now. THANX A TON!!!
Thanks...
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Old 06-26-2011, 04:51 AM   #70
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Absolutly AWSOME! A+ and big thanks. Iv'e searched for one before on youtube and nothing but i click on e off road and find it instantly. Man thats why i love these forums and people. THANKS lol im ganna be a newbie to this 10th 2wd stuff and wanted to know how to do this and now i know!
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:49 AM   #71
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Glad I found this thread before I got my Factory Team SC10! Can't..... Wait.... Need..... Truck..... NOW!

I had to use earphones and turn the volume all the way up on my computer and Youtube.
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:45 AM   #72
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watched it twice. pulled down the worn rtr b4. went out and bought a new b4 from an on roader who'd put it together incorrectly. just combined the parts and followed your instructions.

had to use Hirosieko "Dr Grease" differential paste bought from onroad r/c car shop. couldn't get AE diif lube. it felt thicker but it is winter here down under. hope it's not too thick??

diff felt a lot better. will test during saturday racing here in Sydney, Australia. hoping for a 43 second lap. thanks racer53.
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:04 AM   #73
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Quote:
Absolutly AWSOME! A+ and big thanks. Iv'e searched for one before on youtube and nothing but i click on e off road and find it instantly. Man thats why i love these forums and people. THANKS lol im ganna be a newbie to this 10th 2wd stuff and wanted to know how to do this and now i know!
Thanks...
Quote:
Glad I found this thread before I got my Factory Team SC10! Can't..... Wait.... Need..... Truck..... NOW!

I had to use earphones and turn the volume all the way up on my computer and Youtube.
Ahh...yes, again I apologize for the sound qualityEventually I would like to remake these...
Quote:
watched it twice. pulled down the worn rtr b4. went out and bought a new b4 from an on roader who'd put it together incorrectly. just combined the parts and followed your instructions.

had to use Hirosieko "Dr Grease" differential paste bought from onroad r/c car shop. couldn't get AE diif lube. it felt thicker but it is winter here down under. hope it's not too thick??

diff felt a lot better. will test during saturday racing here in Sydney, Australia. hoping for a 43 second lap. thanks racer53.
Thanks...Good Luck.



Thanks to all replies, Racer53
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Old 06-29-2011, 09:54 AM   #74
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I have 50wt oil, but has anyone heard about Moo-Slick? I have heard nothing but good things about it, and I think it would be a better alternative, it basically sprays a thin layer of non-greasy silicone film that dries and becomes, hence the name, really slick. It works on anything, spraying suspension hinges, bearings, transmissions, squeeky doors, chairs, literally anything. It's worth a shot, they even sell a "corral" pack of Moo-Slick, Moo-ter Cleaner and Degreaser, and Cow Duster (way stronger than any canned duster you can buy at a market). But you have to buy at least 3 of one product at a time or get the all-in-one.

I am not trying to advertise their products, I'm letting people know of an alternative or even something possibly better than using 50wt. shock oil for lubricating the gears.
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:59 PM   #75
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Quote:
I have 50wt oil, but has anyone heard about Moo-Slick? I have heard nothing but good things about it, and I think it would be a better alternative, it basically sprays a thin layer of non-greasy silicone film that dries and becomes, hence the name, really slick. It works on anything, spraying suspension hinges, bearings, transmissions, squeeky doors, chairs, literally anything. It's worth a shot, they even sell a "corral" pack of Moo-Slick, Moo-ter Cleaner and Degreaser, and Cow Duster (way stronger than any canned duster you can buy at a market). But you have to buy at least 3 of one product at a time or get the all-in-one.

I am not trying to advertise their products, I'm letting people know of an alternative or even something possibly better than using 50wt. shock oil for lubricating the gears.
Interesting find...Let us know how it works...
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