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Old 07-29-2014, 06:49 PM   #346
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Originally Posted by Barge View Post
Has anyone ever used a torque clicker type screwdriver to set the torque of the diff bolt?
I would imagine the difference between a newer Locknut and a really old locknut may be an issue. Newer balls and rings use a different pressure than older ones. Setup variations too would complicate this. You could use one and it may be of some help but it is certainly not the final answer.
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Old 08-16-2014, 02:40 AM   #347
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I would talk to a mod about making this a sticky as there are so many people that have hard times with ball diffs .
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Old 10-02-2014, 03:26 PM   #348
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ok I have a new sound coming from my trans... not a barking per say more of a whine at full throttle down a straight away. not sure if it is slipper or diff. only coming from my b5m diff was build and broken in the same way as my sc10 and b4.2 all with ceramic balls ... it also seems like I can not get the diff tight enough ... is the whine a sign the diff is bad or is it slipper? im running stock 17.5 on clay indoor med to high bite track small in size. and it gets lose coming out of corners if I hammer it. and advice on the different sounds would help.

thanks
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Old 02-01-2015, 05:42 PM   #349
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Best diff lube that won't break down with heat?
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Old 02-01-2015, 05:53 PM   #350
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kyosho grease is excellent
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Old 02-17-2015, 02:46 PM   #351
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im breaking in diff should the diff screw be almost as tight as it will go? i got it almost as tight as it will go and i can still turn the other wheel
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Old 02-21-2015, 08:06 AM   #352
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Good info, have my first ball diff in a Team C TR02 Jekyll. Now my question. Why a ball diff? Why not gears? It amazes me that it even works! Is it so you get adjustability? Seems all the Team C racing kits have the gear diff "upgrade". I just don't welcome the increased complexity.

Hey I got an important question on something I have not been able to decide about. About this Team C Jekyll. It came with no ball bearings at all, just bushings, got it for my son to learn racing. Of course I have the ball bearings ordered and they arrive today. I have all the bearings for the hubs and transmission including the two that go inside the ball diff. I am thinking, why bother taking apart a new and working ball diff? Maybe I should just install the other bearings and save the two for the diff till it's time to rebuild the diff. I am thinking that the diff does not move near as much as the rest and does not get exposed to near as much dirt, so the wear should be negligible. Unlike of course running hubs or wheel in the dirt on bushings we know they quickly become worn and undersized. Am I safe to change all the bearings except the ball diff for now? Will I ruin the diff?

Last edited by shahram72; 02-21-2015 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 02-22-2015, 10:27 PM   #353
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Good info, have my first ball diff in a Team C TR02 Jekyll. Now my question. Why a ball diff? Why not gears? It amazes me that it even works! Is it so you get adjustability? Seems all the Team C racing kits have the gear diff "upgrade". I just don't welcome the increased complexity.

Hey I got an important question on something I have not been able to decide about. About this Team C Jekyll. It came with no ball bearings at all, just bushings, got it for my son to learn racing. Of course I have the ball bearings ordered and they arrive today. I have all the bearings for the hubs and transmission including the two that go inside the ball diff. I am thinking, why bother taking apart a new and working ball diff? Maybe I should just install the other bearings and save the two for the diff till it's time to rebuild the diff. I am thinking that the diff does not move near as much as the rest and does not get exposed to near as much dirt, so the wear should be negligible. Unlike of course running hubs or wheel in the dirt on bushings we know they quickly become worn and undersized. Am I safe to change all the bearings except the ball diff for now? Will I ruin the diff?
yes and no... any time metal on metal is bad but bushings use a softer metal so it could make it hard to put bearings on later. being softer i would think it would add metal and you would just need to use like sandpaper to get off the extra metal (it should also come off easy for being soft). now if you ran it for a long long time like this (years) i could see the softer metal making a groove in the harder even then i would think the dirt would wear it out first. which could make it where you need new out drives but they dont cost that much + you most likely have a new car before it happens.

also diff bushings i would think would need to be change first this effect how the car handles and putting power to the ground all the rest really only help with drag.

Last edited by gatorage; 02-22-2015 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:34 AM   #354
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Quote:
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Why a ball diff? Why not gears?
You can run either. With a ball diff you have a finer adjustment for the track condition, you just the adjust a screw to apply pressure on the rings. Also a ball-diff is better for off-road and loose to semi-high bite tracks.

The gear diff you have to adjust the diff by changing diff oils wts. This is great if you run one type of track. Also gear diffs are better for super high bite tracks. Like carpet, super high bite.

I prefer the ball-diff because I run several tracks and depending on conditions I will tighten or loosen the diff. Also I tried the gear diff and it was to twitchy for me and my driving style. I know others that actually prefer the gears. In fact they will have 2-3 gear diff's with different oils so they can just pop them in and out for the type of track they are running.

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Am I safe to change all the bearings except the ball diff for now? Will I ruin the diff?
The bushings will be fine for now. There is just as much movement in the diff as anywhere else in the drive train, but the bushing's will be fine until your next rebuild. I re-build mine every 3-4 races. Some rebuiled theirs every race, some every 1-2 race or months. Just monitor the feel and if the diff starts to feel gritty, or has a sticky/high spot, anything less than completely smooth --- rebuild it. Then change the bushings out.
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Old 03-12-2015, 06:31 PM   #355
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Default 2wd tires turn same way

I am sure this has been talked about before

My b5 is ready to run but when I turn the rear wheel the other rear wheel turns in same direction I am sure they should turn in opposite direction

I can hold the rear wheel and spur gear and the other wheel doesn't turn

I am guessing I have something to tight,,,,any suggestions/ help
Thanks

Last edited by fastatfrog; 03-12-2015 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 03-23-2015, 01:27 PM   #356
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Good info here!!!
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:28 PM   #357
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Wow! I feel like such a newbie. I didn't know that you had to "break-in" a differential or slipper clutch. I have an SC10GT. Was I suppose to break-in the diff and slipper? I have the RTR. All I did was check screws and thread-lock. Car seems to run fine. Will I have issues in the future? Thanks!
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Old 04-09-2015, 07:20 PM   #358
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Angry Diff/slipper noises.

Another noise I found last year;
I run Novak motors and sometimes the magnet breaks loose from the motor shaft!
Sounds a little like a slipping diff,but much less go-forward action with the truck!
It happened to me and I was surprised.
Hard to diagnose for me,the first time.
Other motors may have that happen.
No warantee on that one,now it's a refer magnet.
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:02 PM   #359
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so glad I found this should be really helpful.
trying this tomorrow after work.
Any extra tips are appreciated.
Also I already ran the buggy in my friends basement to make sure all the electronics are working correct and such.
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Old 05-30-2015, 11:36 AM   #360
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IMO breaking in a ball diff takes majority of its life away. I watched Matt Castalanos video of breaking in a ball diff and ever since then i get less than half of the life i used to. They get gritty quicker since your grinding a groove. Since a few months ago i went back to just lightly hand spinning back and forth as i come up on diff tension that prevents slippng and they are all still smooth as silk in all 3 rcs.
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