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Old 11-17-2013, 06:44 AM   #331
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I've been running the MIP one in my B4.1 for probably a few months now and last night i decided to pull it apart. now keep in mind I run it the way they suggest setting it up which I see isn't the most popular way. so I found the rings and bearings have 0 wear on them and the thrust bearing was almost dry but the balls seemed to be fine along with the washers.

for all you guys that are constantly having to sand the washers or flip them maybe you should try setting it up like MIP says to. it's working with excellent results for me.
I did break it in using this thread's video.

that's just my opinion. you guys might run yours harder or have faster motors etc than I do.
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Old 12-25-2013, 12:28 AM   #332
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Thank you
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:40 PM   #333
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Has anyone ever used a torque clicker type screwdriver to set the torque of the diff bolt? My theory is that you're setting the diff tightness by compressing the spring and the torque on the bolt to tighten to a set spring pressure should be relatively consistent.

If this correlates you could take all the guesswork out of diff tuning by keeping your diff set to a consistent torque and having an actual gauge of tightening or loosening it small amounts.

Granted this would require a $100 torque screwdriver so it probably wouldn't be for everyone.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:26 AM   #334
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Has anyone ever used a torque clicker type screwdriver to set the torque of the diff bolt? My theory is that you're setting the diff tightness by compressing the spring and the torque on the bolt to tighten to a set spring pressure should be relatively consistent.

If this correlates you could take all the guesswork out of diff tuning by keeping your diff set to a consistent torque and having an actual gauge of tightening or loosening it small amounts.

Granted this would require a $100 torque screwdriver so it probably wouldn't be for everyone.
That's an interesting thought. I may look into this.

Took me awhile to discover that it's the break-in period that is crucial to these Ball Diffs. I run each tire for 30 seconds at 20% speed and then tighten the diff screw about 1/16" and then repeat. This allows the diff balls to wear down a groove into the diff rings. IF you think about it, the groove increases the contact surface between the diff balls and the diff rings. This minimizes and or eliminates barking/slipping altogether. Alternating the tires is very important also, or else you get uneven grooves which will make one side prone to slipping or being loose.

Did you ever sign a receipt that was printed on a very thin slippery piece of paper that resulted in very little ink coming out of the ball point pen? What did you do to remedy this? I've either slipped another sheet of paper underneath or placed the receipt on more pliable surface. Doing so allows the ball point pen to sink into the receipt allowing increased surface contact with the ball point. As a result it rotates and releases the ink. Same process occurs with a ball diff!

There was a test done on these ball diffs by some On-road guys that describes this process occurring. If I find the article, I'll attach it to a post.

Which brings me to the use of a Torque Driver - during the break-in period, when does one stop? Theoretically, if you take it slow and with enough patience you can cut a groove right through the diff rings. Which is not what we want....

By the way, the clear silicone lube is NOT A LUBE. It's an abrasive with a carrier. Never apply it to your gear teeth.
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:38 AM   #335
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I think the torque driver usage would occur after you've reached your break-in point.

Then you would use it to maintain a good setpoint for your diff and/or make slight adjustments looser or tighter.

The whole tighten it down until it spins hard, Hold one tire and spin the other one and tighten it until it spins one rotation. All that seems far too subjective to me especially as it seems like diff tightness can have a profound effect on the cars handling.

Maybe your car handling like crap isn't your camber link position or your shock oil. Maybe it's 3 oz-in tightness in your diff.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:54 AM   #336
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I followed these instructions the best I could, but with my brand new diff, it's gritty no matter what, and when I get it tight enough not to slip, it's way too tight, like I used 40k weight in a gear diff.

I haven't run it yet. I've tried sanding, etc. It's gritty even when it's loose enough to slip. Any suggestions? What if I run it like that?

I can't wait to get the gear diff when it comes out for my buggy. Ball diffs don't seem worth the trouble to me.
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Old 02-19-2014, 10:43 AM   #337
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http://miponline.com/store/media/myi...inst-12165.pdf
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Old 03-01-2014, 08:53 AM   #338
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Good infoThx
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Old 03-01-2014, 11:17 AM   #339
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very nice write up. I wanted to make a comment about the use of diff lube and what its purpose is as most people would think its bad to lube a part that needs friction to operate and common sense would dictate slippage. In all honesty you dont want any slip between the balls an plates as that flattens the bearings and grooves the plates,thrust tension is different and will effect how easily lube is displaced, eg tighter pushes out lube completely possibly distorting balls where loose lets lube in and slippage, viscosity also plays a part. The grease is primarily a lube to keep the bearings from burning up their race, which in the case of a diff is the plasic gear. im sure peeps have experienced a melted gear but bearings and plates are fine. as the bearings roll on plates they push out the grease and essentially roll due to contact friction. problem with using a heavy grease is it gets between ball and plate and causes slippage. silicone has best properties to achieve optimal results.
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Old 03-01-2014, 11:32 AM   #340
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I also wanted to make a note that the ball point pen analogy is correct but you do not want a layer of media between the ball and plate, in contrast you want the ink to coat the ball and bind to paper and the ink become a friction agent and in the case of glazed paper the ball achieves greater friction on its carrier than on the surface of the paper so it slipped. Remember ink is very sticky and slippery. I was thinking about what was posted about ceramic being to smooth for diff balls and was thinking that thinning the grease with heavy shock oil would help. Please check my info to verify as it is derived from personal experience and deduction.
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Old 03-04-2014, 04:12 PM   #341
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Found this site while doing some research.http://www.offroad-cult.org/Special/...ntial/Diff.htm

Hope I linked it right. If you don't read German you will have to have it translated. It has Everything you ever wanted to know about Ball Diffs.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:42 PM   #342
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This is the exact method I use for a ball diff.
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Old 06-21-2014, 10:32 PM   #343
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Default Drill Motor Break In Procedure

Just want to confirm I am doing proper procedure. I place ball diff in drill motor and hold diff gear while turning the motor at reasonable low speed. Tighten approx. 1/16 of a turn and repeat drilling until diff is set to desired tightness. Please confirm that I do not need to rotate between outdrives when using the drilling method. Thanks
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Old 07-04-2014, 12:54 PM   #344
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THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS GUIDE! I've been using this guide and it saved me from rage quitting and throwing my diff in the trash! Keep up the awesome work.

-rcsteve715
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:40 PM   #345
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I've been using the drill motor method for years. The results were varied but I never got a really smooth diff. I tried Racer 53's method and it works great! I never had such a smooth diff, I can't wait for off road season to start so I can see how good the truck handles with a perfect diff. Many thanks to Racer 53


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Just want to confirm I am doing proper procedure. I place ball diff in drill motor and hold diff gear while turning the motor at reasonable low speed. Tighten approx. 1/16 of a turn and repeat drilling until diff is set to desired tightness. Please confirm that I do not need to rotate between outdrives when using the drilling method. Thanks
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