ridepate

iTrader: (9)

And your point is????

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

Your blaming the nut which is not the problem .

GeicoGecko

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info. Not sure why details like thus aren't in the manual! Thankfully a regular at or track helped me set up my diff and slipper this week and it was exactly as you described

superspeed

iTrader: (5)

Ball diff eventually will be replaced by oil filled gear diff. Slipper clutch sticking around longer unless the transmission is made easier to access and can withhold stronger force/impact, plus tires with super high traction to prevent slippage and fishtail under hard acceleration.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

and what makes you think gear diff will win out?

Tim3

iTrader: (1)

Gear diff is better. You dont see a stuck posted gear differential thread like this one, do you?
It will be good when all the diffs go gears. Can't whait.

This is just like what hapened when lipo's came onto the market.

Even the onroad cars are now starting to come with them. People are starting to see the light.

kc_nitro_rc

People are waiting at the next corner for the gear diff cars to catch up.

richardsonracin

iTrader: (4)

I think this is great info for how to properly build and "break in" a diff. But all these slipper issues baffle me. After many years and many different cars, I've never had to worry this much about how the slipper is adjusted. I've always just tightened the nut on the shaft, a few turns from flush, sat the car on the track "the best place to set the diff because its the surface your running on", rolled the car backwards away from me and squeezed the throttle. If it breaks the tires loose without slipping just a tad I loosen it. If it slips and doesn't throw any dirt, I tighten it. Is It really this simple, or is there something I'm missing?

To me the slipper is an adjustment, not a setting. If your not smoothe with the finger you probably need more slippage. Just thinking out loud...

rcdriven

nice videos , thanks for putting in all that work for those not in the know, a small tip for those that have ball diffs that do not come with that small cover for the adjustment side of the diff is to cut a small bit of fuel tube or even foam from packaging etc and plug the thrust race end of the diff to keep the grime out, be careful not to bind up the diff screw though!
i have been using clear silicone grease for the diff , you can get it at most hardware shops in 100g tubes or 500g tubs , it works just as well as so called specialist diff lube , i am sure its the same damn stuff and costs a few bucks for the 100g tube, i use black molybdenum grease on on my thrust races , again from the local hardware shop and costs only a few bucks for 150g tube , by all means use the AE stuff if you have money to burn but IMO better to save the cash and get some Si3N4(silicone nitride) diff and thrust race balls ,i have had the same ones i got from china 4 years ago via ebay for $12 for 50 !! and have done many rebuilds with the same balls but with new plates etc and the diff's are still silky smooth witheach rebuild .
another tip from back in the day ,to get a tighter diff 'action' without having to over tighten the diff is to leave out 1 in 4 of the diff balls so the diff will have 9 instead of 12 balls, this increases the cm dyne on the diff plates and slows diffs action a touch without risking a blown thrust race.
have fun fella's.

dMITIj

yeah nice info and worke done in this Article, gj.

a 4wd Article would also be nice? :-)

best regards.

HOTSHOT III

Very true, see my post about the Lazer ZX-5. Although this method has transformed my car I don't really know where to start when adjusting one diff in relation to the other like a lot of 4WD guys seem to.

For now i've just adjusted them so they're both the same and are tight enough to not slip, loose enough for the car to handle well.

If any 4WD racers out there can help with this we want to hear from you!!

HOTSHOT III

Racer 53,

I used your method to build/break in the diffs and set the slipper on my Kyosho Lazer ZX-5SP and not only the diff action, but consequently the behavior of the entire car is transformed!!!

For a long time I preferred to use my 1/8th buggy (I race at a track which has 1/8th and 1/10th classes) but after racing finished today I used the ZX-5 (having followed your break-in method outside my house earlier in the week) and it was lapping faster than some of the 1/8th guys, handling beautifully, the diffs don't slip, they're lovely and smooth and the slipper is set correctly.

You can always tell when your car is working properly because when you're driving you don't have to think about it too much, this was certainly the case today, my only complaint is I didn't race it. Still no worries, I know to enter both classes next week.

I can't thank you enough for doing this, I don't know why manufacturers don't include this information in build manuals as a lot of people walk away from 1/10th buggies because they don't think they can build ball diffs properly. In reality they just need to be shown, I never knew you needed to break them in but i've seen 1st hand how much difference this makes. Thanks once again.

bossfunk

iTrader: (10)

Thank you very much for posting this how to

Acill

iTrader: (24)

For those interested in balls diffs I sell complete prepped kits for $31.99 with free US shipping. Kits come with ceramic diff balls, carbide thrust balls and prepped diff and thrust rings.

I'll also prep and assemble your diff for $20 if you send the parts and return shipping is free.

OMG23RC

iTrader: (21)

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