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Pinions aren't staying on motor pole

Pinions aren't staying on motor pole

Old 05-04-2011, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by racer1812
This is me and only me, I've never in 20 years needed or wanted to use Loctite on a pinion set screw. Are you using a QUALITY wrench to tighted it?
I've tried one shit wrench which I thought was the problem, than used two of my good one, neither did the job . It tightens all the way
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by merx9
Hey all, So im having an issue that has recently occurred and I do not understand why its happening. My pinions will not stay on the motor pole. Is it possible for the pole have this happen? I have tried numerous pinions with numerous screws and once i start driving they just untighten and come off. I tighten the screw as much as can go so i just do not understand. It's a castle sct motor if that matters but I wasnt having any of these issues until recently. Any ideas?
thanks!
Hey man in my 15 years of racing, I have learned alot of things com my dad. One thing is after you change your pinon and tighten it and set your gear mesh, drive it for about 30 seconds with atleast three good full throttle pulls. After that, re tighten the motor screws and the pinion set screw. Hope that helps man.
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Break out the dremel again and give it another nudge.. by no means do you take off much material... just the slightest hit does the job.




Brushless and lipo even if you were on the cutting edge is less than 10yrs into this market.. for most only about 6. I never put anything on my brushed motors either ;P never had a single pinion issue until the two forces met (lipo/brushless) and all of a sudden electric was faster than nitro. For me the first time I was in a race and had a DNF was the last time I didn't use thread locker
I'll say that I might consider it if I was running a E8 car but 1/10th scale on
2s no matter how hot a BL motor I just issues when it comes removal time. Them little suckers can be sketchy even with a good wrench Like I said, if it works for you great, I just don't recommend it as a fix
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by racer1812
This is me and only me, I've never in 20 years needed or wanted to use Loctite on a pinion set screw. Are you using a QUALITY wrench to tighted it?
+1

Iv never once used locktite on a single pinion gear... and have never had a pinion gear come off the motor shaft. Everything from a 2wd buggy, to a 4wd touring car running a 4.5. use a quality allen driver, and crank the setscrew down onto the flat spot on the shaft, and it shouldn't come off.
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:30 AM
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I've been racing R/C since 1984 and I've never had a pinion come loose
every on 1/10th,1/12th,1/8th anything ever. I've never used loctite on
any pinion ever.

Everytime I see a guy with a loose pinion and walk over to his/her pit I
see them trying to put it back on with a pinion wrench that is a total joke.
People spend thousands of dollars on all the cool looking stuff for their R/C
cars/trucks and then buy 10 cent wrenchs to work on their cars/trucks..

I've used Thorp made by (John Thorp) or now M.I.P. always. They cost
dearly but they will never leave you wondering why a pinion our anything
came loose because they never will be loose..

Lots of people are just flat to cheap to buy good wrenchs,then they are
always wondering why they have problems with their R/C cars/trucks
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
+1

Iv never once used locktite on a single pinion gear... and have never had a pinion gear come off the motor shaft. Everything from a 2wd buggy, to a 4wd touring car running a 4.5. use a quality allen driver, and crank the setscrew down onto the flat spot on the shaft, and it shouldn't come off.


BINGO"
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck 21
I've used Thorp made by (John Thorp) or now M.I.P. always.
Iv always used quality allen drivers as well... or so I thought. I just bought my first MIP 2.0mm allen driver last week to replace a worn 2.0 dynamite iv been using (which are also pretty nice), and it is the best money iv ever spent in RC! Yes, the single driver was $14, but WELL worth it.

You can't go wrong with MIP allen drivers.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph.../filter_mfr/18
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:01 AM
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Maybe obvious, but are you using the right sized pinion? Many of us run that motor in 4x4 short course trucks and most of those call for a mod 1 pinion and unless you buy ones that have a 3mm opening, most have a 5 mm opening that is too large for the castle motor without a pinion adapter.

If you are using the adaptor, it is very easy to not have the grub screw properly going into the opening in the adapter in which case you could tighten the screw but the pinion would still just slide right off.

If you're using a 5mm pinion on a 3mm shaft without an adapter then that is your problem right there. If this is with 3mm pinions then the advice of the posters above should get you taken care of.
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:22 AM
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I've also noticed this problem with the same motor. I use blue loctite, too. That seems to help but not always. I've broken 3 allen tips from tightening the pinion. All of the tips broke inside the set screw making it a pain to remove. I feel like a may be using the wrong size allen. The Traxxas pinions take a 1.5mm, but the 1.5mm fits slightly loose in the Robinson screws. I invested in OFNA allens. They seem to be working out pretty well.
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:45 AM
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I had/have a set of Ofna's, they didn't last very long but fit well when new. Not the best on the market IMO.
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:26 AM
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I wonder if you have the correct type of set/grub screw (or maybe just wore out). They are available in several end types.

Generally pinions use the common cup point style, it has a small ring of contact. If that ring is wore off too much (or it was a flat or domed point style to begin with) it will be far more difficult to get a good bite on the shaft, the ring should imbed into the shaft slightly to get a good grip.

If nothing else a very cheap item to try, should be able to get them at a hardware store for pocket change.
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave H
I wonder if you have the correct type of set/grub screw (or maybe just wore out). They are available in several end types.

Generally pinions use the common cup point style, it has a small ring of contact. If that ring is wore off too much (or it was a flat or domed point style to begin with) it will be far more difficult to get a good bite on the shaft, the ring should imbed into the shaft slightly to get a good grip.

If nothing else a very cheap item to try, should be able to get them at a hardware store for pocket change.
You won't have any of the above problems if you are always using the
(Thorp M.I.P.) wrenchs from day one...
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:56 AM
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I red thread lock my pinion gears. No issues getting them off either. A quick tap and a lol heat does the trick. Call me stupid.lol.
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck 21
You won't have any of the above problems if you are always using the
(Thorp M.I.P.) wrenchs from day one...
That would certainly help, but it’s not the situation as I understood it. The previous failures could have compromised the set screw point, a good wrench will only partially mask that, once the damage is done.
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