The TLR 22 Guide Thread
03-04-2012, 10:20 PM
#32
muggydude i have a 22 buggy and run on a clay track just recently got my son a dex 210 basically out of the box with little set up . he was driving the dex 410v3 for a couple months he is 12yrs ,he is running faster lap times than the 4 wheel car so i decided to give the car a shot and i could drive it more aggressively than my 22 and it had alot of rear end bite,i have my 22 forsale and do not really want to sell it because you can get parts anywhere unlike durango, any suggestions,running 25-5 up front orange springs 3mm limiters,in the rear yellow springs no rebound in all shocks ,27.5 oil in all four shocks,8.5 trinity with a kenetic esc 78 spur 24 pinion,associated vented clutch set up...thanks in advance
04-07-2012, 07:30 PM
#33
problems with stiff CVAs
Love the build so far, such high quality, The only problem I've had is after I built the CVAs they are a bit stiff. I assume they will break in quickly, but I dont want to run it at all if there's something I can do to fix it. I put grease on it during assembly. Thanks in advance.
04-07-2012, 11:49 PM
#35
Love the build so far, such high quality, The only problem I've had is after I built the CVAs they are a bit stiff. I assume they will break in quickly, but I dont want to run it at all if there's something I can do to fix it. I put grease on it during assembly. Thanks in advance.
08-04-2012, 12:50 AM
#38
One tip that I might add is that you may want to install 3M x 4mm grub screws into the spare holes next to the ball stub on the rear hubs to help to keep the ball studs from ripping out the rear hubs.
Once your steering rack starts to develope a bit of slop you can use a strip of Teflon plumbers tape on the steering rack to take up the slop once it breaks in. Just cut it slightly longer than the rack and apply the tape to face allowing it to wrap around to the sides and bottom edge as well.
Another way to reduce slop in the sterring is to install small pieces of Teflon tape over your ball stud before you snap the ball end on. This will help to tighten up loose ball joints and remove more slop.
Once your steering rack starts to develope a bit of slop you can use a strip of Teflon plumbers tape on the steering rack to take up the slop once it breaks in. Just cut it slightly longer than the rack and apply the tape to face allowing it to wrap around to the sides and bottom edge as well.
Another way to reduce slop in the sterring is to install small pieces of Teflon tape over your ball stud before you snap the ball end on. This will help to tighten up loose ball joints and remove more slop.
10-09-2012, 05:56 PM
#41
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_Los...teryStrap.html
I have this one in my 22t!
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_Los...ryStrapV2.html
10-11-2012, 11:56 AM
#42
I too have ordered the Battery Strap from Diggity, along with the Front Shock tower...just to see what it will do.
Also, I got this idea from another R/CTechr' and wondering if anybody else has tried this, removing the tray that we can mount the ESC to, to get the ESC lower and on the chassis. I had to modify the rear shock tower a bit to get a better fit.
Anybody here running the Trans Spacers?
<><
Sean
Also, I got this idea from another R/CTechr' and wondering if anybody else has tried this, removing the tray that we can mount the ESC to, to get the ESC lower and on the chassis. I had to modify the rear shock tower a bit to get a better fit.
Anybody here running the Trans Spacers?
<><
Sean
Last edited by HESaves; 10-11-2012 at 01:44 PM. Reason: Spell I cannot
10-11-2012, 03:36 PM
#44
so does the pro set up really work??
10-11-2012, 03:59 PM
#45
Got the 22 built, and the dog bones are really really close to coming out of the slots in the diff outdrives. One actually came out in the first race. Any ideas?