im new to rc and have some lipo questions! :)
01-02-2012, 03:53 PM
#16
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Ok one more question
What is the difference between running a 6s battery or 2 3s batteries?
The pro's
I can probably get 2 3s batteries for the price of one 6s. Plus I can use the 3s on the slash I'm getting.
If something would happen to one I can still use the other for the slash
Takes less time to charge a 3s battery then a 6s.
Con's
Cost of 6 s battery
Something happen to it I wouldn't be able to use it.
So can anyone help myself out? What is the difference between running a 6s versus 2 3s batteries?
What is the difference between running a 6s battery or 2 3s batteries?
The pro's
I can probably get 2 3s batteries for the price of one 6s. Plus I can use the 3s on the slash I'm getting.
If something would happen to one I can still use the other for the slash
Takes less time to charge a 3s battery then a 6s.
Con's
Cost of 6 s battery
Something happen to it I wouldn't be able to use it.
So can anyone help myself out? What is the difference between running a 6s versus 2 3s batteries?
01-02-2012, 05:17 PM
#17
Here is battery 101 for anyone who ever reads this. I will try to make it as layman as possible and use analogies whenever possible.
OK, lipo batteries are designed in sections. Each section is 3.7 volts. Think of a section as "S" So a 2S battery is 2 sections, therefore it is 7.4 volts. A 3S is 11.1 volts, a 4S is 14.8 volts, and on and on we go.
Sections are always placed in series when assembled and that increases the voltage. More voltage equals more power. Now, technically, you can wire up a pair of batteries in parallel and keep the voltage the same, but increase the run time, but I cannot think of an application where people do that in rc cars at this time.
Basically series and parallel wiring is similar to any other electrical property such as speaker impedence, can lights in your home, etc...but that is another complete discussion.
Currently, rc stops at 6S which is 22.2 volts. Now weight and design are factors here. Most 1/10 cars are 7.4 volts or 2S. Most 1/8 cars are 14.8 volts or 4S, but there are plenty of people playing with 22.2 volts or 6s because of Ohm's law and finding success with it. Once again another discussion, but basically a heavier car needs more voltage to push it and of course a bigger esc and motor.
Now imagine each S in reference to a car motor. A 1 cylinder will obviously not have the same horsepower as a 6 cylinder motor.
OK, now that we have covered S and voltage, we will continue on with C rating. Basically C rating is how much amperage a battery is able to release if the esc/motor is asking for it. Laymans term is known as "punch" on acceleration. Think of a C rating sort of like nitrous in fast and furious. The higher the c rating the more acceleration you can get out of your car at that point. Basically a low c battery can limit what an esc/motor needs and it will slow the acceleration down. Realistically, most people can run 20c batteries with no issue and of course, they are much less expensive, but some people want the best of the best and buy bigger. If you have too much punch, you can always turn down the epa on your radio, but you sort of defeated the point of the expensive battery.
Finally, there is mah rating. Basically the bigger the number, the longer the runtime and the heavier the battery gets. Realistically, to race 5 to 10 minutes in a heat or main, most cars need about 4000 to 5000 mah. Of course, if you use the trigger a lot and are aggressive, you will burn up mah more than someone who is smooth and concise. Also, resistance in the drivetrain can cause stress and waste mah. Easiest way to think of it is imagine mah as the amount of gas in your car tank.
OK, lipo batteries are designed in sections. Each section is 3.7 volts. Think of a section as "S" So a 2S battery is 2 sections, therefore it is 7.4 volts. A 3S is 11.1 volts, a 4S is 14.8 volts, and on and on we go.
Sections are always placed in series when assembled and that increases the voltage. More voltage equals more power. Now, technically, you can wire up a pair of batteries in parallel and keep the voltage the same, but increase the run time, but I cannot think of an application where people do that in rc cars at this time.
Basically series and parallel wiring is similar to any other electrical property such as speaker impedence, can lights in your home, etc...but that is another complete discussion.
Currently, rc stops at 6S which is 22.2 volts. Now weight and design are factors here. Most 1/10 cars are 7.4 volts or 2S. Most 1/8 cars are 14.8 volts or 4S, but there are plenty of people playing with 22.2 volts or 6s because of Ohm's law and finding success with it. Once again another discussion, but basically a heavier car needs more voltage to push it and of course a bigger esc and motor.
Now imagine each S in reference to a car motor. A 1 cylinder will obviously not have the same horsepower as a 6 cylinder motor.
OK, now that we have covered S and voltage, we will continue on with C rating. Basically C rating is how much amperage a battery is able to release if the esc/motor is asking for it. Laymans term is known as "punch" on acceleration. Think of a C rating sort of like nitrous in fast and furious. The higher the c rating the more acceleration you can get out of your car at that point. Basically a low c battery can limit what an esc/motor needs and it will slow the acceleration down. Realistically, most people can run 20c batteries with no issue and of course, they are much less expensive, but some people want the best of the best and buy bigger. If you have too much punch, you can always turn down the epa on your radio, but you sort of defeated the point of the expensive battery.
Finally, there is mah rating. Basically the bigger the number, the longer the runtime and the heavier the battery gets. Realistically, to race 5 to 10 minutes in a heat or main, most cars need about 4000 to 5000 mah. Of course, if you use the trigger a lot and are aggressive, you will burn up mah more than someone who is smooth and concise. Also, resistance in the drivetrain can cause stress and waste mah. Easiest way to think of it is imagine mah as the amount of gas in your car tank.
01-02-2012, 05:18 PM
#18
If you have any further questions, let me know and hopefully I can help, but that is the best way I have found to describe what has been asked so far. Most likely, your cars will be uncontrollable at 3s by the way. Think 500hp Mustang or Camaro.....x about 3.
01-02-2012, 06:22 PM
#19
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Here is my theory here since I always learn more from you guys but never seem to get the answer to my question. Not trying to be mean. LOL
Basicly I have a Vorza right now. I run a 4s battery in it right now. I have thought about switching to the 6s battery. Which isn't a problem. I have a slash on the way. So I was thinking instead of getting a 6s or even a 4s batteries would I loose anything if I got 2 3s or 2 2s batteries? That way I can use the batteries in the Vorza and the slash. So will I loose anything using 2 battery packs instead of one?
01-03-2012, 11:15 AM
#21
Here is battery 101 for anyone who ever reads this. I will try to make it as layman as possible and use analogies whenever possible.
OK, lipo batteries are designed in sections. Each section is 3.7 volts. Think of a section as "S" So a 2S battery is 2 sections, therefore it is 7.4 volts. A 3S is 11.1 volts, a 4S is 14.8 volts, and on and on we go.
Sections are always placed in series when assembled and that increases the voltage. More voltage equals more power. Now, technically, you can wire up a pair of batteries in parallel and keep the voltage the same, but increase the run time, but I cannot think of an application where people do that in rc cars at this time.
Basically series and parallel wiring is similar to any other electrical property such as speaker impedence, can lights in your home, etc...but that is another complete discussion.
Currently, rc stops at 6S which is 22.2 volts. Now weight and design are factors here. Most 1/10 cars are 7.4 volts or 2S. Most 1/8 cars are 14.8 volts or 4S, but there are plenty of people playing with 22.2 volts or 6s because of Ohm's law and finding success with it. Once again another discussion, but basically a heavier car needs more voltage to push it and of course a bigger esc and motor.
Now imagine each S in reference to a car motor. A 1 cylinder will obviously not have the same horsepower as a 6 cylinder motor.
OK, now that we have covered S and voltage, we will continue on with C rating. Basically C rating is how much amperage a battery is able to release if the esc/motor is asking for it. Laymans term is known as "punch" on acceleration. Think of a C rating sort of like nitrous in fast and furious. The higher the c rating the more acceleration you can get out of your car at that point. Basically a low c battery can limit what an esc/motor needs and it will slow the acceleration down. Realistically, most people can run 20c batteries with no issue and of course, they are much less expensive, but some people want the best of the best and buy bigger. If you have too much punch, you can always turn down the epa on your radio, but you sort of defeated the point of the expensive battery.
Finally, there is mah rating. Basically the bigger the number, the longer the runtime and the heavier the battery gets. Realistically, to race 5 to 10 minutes in a heat or main, most cars need about 4000 to 5000 mah. Of course, if you use the trigger a lot and are aggressive, you will burn up mah more than someone who is smooth and concise. Also, resistance in the drivetrain can cause stress and waste mah. Easiest way to think of it is imagine mah as the amount of gas in your car tank.
OK, lipo batteries are designed in sections. Each section is 3.7 volts. Think of a section as "S" So a 2S battery is 2 sections, therefore it is 7.4 volts. A 3S is 11.1 volts, a 4S is 14.8 volts, and on and on we go.
Sections are always placed in series when assembled and that increases the voltage. More voltage equals more power. Now, technically, you can wire up a pair of batteries in parallel and keep the voltage the same, but increase the run time, but I cannot think of an application where people do that in rc cars at this time.
Basically series and parallel wiring is similar to any other electrical property such as speaker impedence, can lights in your home, etc...but that is another complete discussion.
Currently, rc stops at 6S which is 22.2 volts. Now weight and design are factors here. Most 1/10 cars are 7.4 volts or 2S. Most 1/8 cars are 14.8 volts or 4S, but there are plenty of people playing with 22.2 volts or 6s because of Ohm's law and finding success with it. Once again another discussion, but basically a heavier car needs more voltage to push it and of course a bigger esc and motor.
Now imagine each S in reference to a car motor. A 1 cylinder will obviously not have the same horsepower as a 6 cylinder motor.
OK, now that we have covered S and voltage, we will continue on with C rating. Basically C rating is how much amperage a battery is able to release if the esc/motor is asking for it. Laymans term is known as "punch" on acceleration. Think of a C rating sort of like nitrous in fast and furious. The higher the c rating the more acceleration you can get out of your car at that point. Basically a low c battery can limit what an esc/motor needs and it will slow the acceleration down. Realistically, most people can run 20c batteries with no issue and of course, they are much less expensive, but some people want the best of the best and buy bigger. If you have too much punch, you can always turn down the epa on your radio, but you sort of defeated the point of the expensive battery.
Finally, there is mah rating. Basically the bigger the number, the longer the runtime and the heavier the battery gets. Realistically, to race 5 to 10 minutes in a heat or main, most cars need about 4000 to 5000 mah. Of course, if you use the trigger a lot and are aggressive, you will burn up mah more than someone who is smooth and concise. Also, resistance in the drivetrain can cause stress and waste mah. Easiest way to think of it is imagine mah as the amount of gas in your car tank.
01-03-2012, 11:20 AM
#22
I had a 525 hp and it was never uncontrollable unless it was raining. Now it's going to be more power!!! LOL
Here is my theory here since I always learn more from you guys but never seem to get the answer to my question. Not trying to be mean. LOL
Basicly I have a Vorza right now. I run a 4s battery in it right now. I have thought about switching to the 6s battery. Which isn't a problem. I have a slash on the way. So I was thinking instead of getting a 6s or even a 4s batteries would I loose anything if I got 2 3s or 2 2s batteries? That way I can use the batteries in the Vorza and the slash. So will I loose anything using 2 battery packs instead of one?
Here is my theory here since I always learn more from you guys but never seem to get the answer to my question. Not trying to be mean. LOL
Basicly I have a Vorza right now. I run a 4s battery in it right now. I have thought about switching to the 6s battery. Which isn't a problem. I have a slash on the way. So I was thinking instead of getting a 6s or even a 4s batteries would I loose anything if I got 2 3s or 2 2s batteries? That way I can use the batteries in the Vorza and the slash. So will I loose anything using 2 battery packs instead of one?
If you go to a 6s, normally you go to a smaller motor also. Most people go to 6s so they can have longer runtimes with a smaller motor that will put out the equivalent of a larger motor on 4s.
In my opinion, stay away from the 6s if you are not going to a smaller motor like a 1300 or 1400.
Last edited by jmackani; 01-03-2012 at 03:23 PM.
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