Home track construction questions...
#1
Home track construction questions...
I've finally convinced my wife that there is no better use for the back side/corner of our backyard than a home RC track... Too much shade for grass to grow, out of sight from the windows so she doesn't have to look at it.
The area is 18 ft wide at one end and 45 ft wide at the other, and about 100 ft long. It has 8 trees, but they are old pin oaks and are either on the outside edge of the area or clustered in a wide area, all easy to plan around. There is a pretty good elevation change, probably 2 feet, over the long run of the area, and it is bordered by fence or house on all but 30 feet of the length on one side.
I want to be able to run my 1/8 e buggy, but the primary focus will be for 1/10 size obstacles and jumps. I want a mostly technical, tight track with a couple of jumps...but small, flowing jumps are the goal. I don't want to make it a parts eating or stress inducing super cross inspired layout. One of the local tracks here has a 5 small jump section that can be run as double/triple if ran right...or 5x singles if you come in wrong... It keeps the speeds down and encourages throttle control, so I will be stealing that idea for sure...but I am at a loss on the other jump or large obstacle.
I was planning on 6 foot width for lanes and a high bermed, steep banked turn at the end of the 100 ft downhill straight, a bumpy washboard type section leading into the technical curvy sections leading back uphill past the drivers stand ending with the double/triple obstacle, then a less banked lower bermed pair of turns at the narrow 20ft wide top section leading to the downhill straight/jump section. Sounds basic enough to build but hopefully I can mix in obstacles and allow course changes easily enough to keep it fun and interesting for my son and I as well as our guests.
Are 6 foot lanes wide enough? And what do think the signature big jump/feature on the back straight should be??? Should I try to add a crossover feature? Any ideas out there? I'm definitely open...
The area is 18 ft wide at one end and 45 ft wide at the other, and about 100 ft long. It has 8 trees, but they are old pin oaks and are either on the outside edge of the area or clustered in a wide area, all easy to plan around. There is a pretty good elevation change, probably 2 feet, over the long run of the area, and it is bordered by fence or house on all but 30 feet of the length on one side.
I want to be able to run my 1/8 e buggy, but the primary focus will be for 1/10 size obstacles and jumps. I want a mostly technical, tight track with a couple of jumps...but small, flowing jumps are the goal. I don't want to make it a parts eating or stress inducing super cross inspired layout. One of the local tracks here has a 5 small jump section that can be run as double/triple if ran right...or 5x singles if you come in wrong... It keeps the speeds down and encourages throttle control, so I will be stealing that idea for sure...but I am at a loss on the other jump or large obstacle.
I was planning on 6 foot width for lanes and a high bermed, steep banked turn at the end of the 100 ft downhill straight, a bumpy washboard type section leading into the technical curvy sections leading back uphill past the drivers stand ending with the double/triple obstacle, then a less banked lower bermed pair of turns at the narrow 20ft wide top section leading to the downhill straight/jump section. Sounds basic enough to build but hopefully I can mix in obstacles and allow course changes easily enough to keep it fun and interesting for my son and I as well as our guests.
Are 6 foot lanes wide enough? And what do think the signature big jump/feature on the back straight should be??? Should I try to add a crossover feature? Any ideas out there? I'm definitely open...
#2
I'm doing the same thing basically (40x80) I have 5 foot lanes now but I'm switching to 6 ft wide for my 8 yr old son.
I like the cross over idea and will try this but it will be narrow so he can clear with a big run way and landing. I'm putting in alot of real right corners and jumps and bumps but I will have a bypass so my son can take the shortcut so we can race together.
I think keeping your son into the sport is great good luck.
Hopefully my skid steer ignition comes today
I like the cross over idea and will try this but it will be narrow so he can clear with a big run way and landing. I'm putting in alot of real right corners and jumps and bumps but I will have a bypass so my son can take the shortcut so we can race together.
I think keeping your son into the sport is great good luck.
Hopefully my skid steer ignition comes today
#3
everything dont sound to bad but with our track we started at 6foot wide but then moved it to 8ft much better
#4
Tech Addict
iTrader: (39)
Generally you have a little short of an area to really run the 1/8e but for short course it should be perfect... it more or less sounds like you have a good handle on what you want to do... and 6ft lanes are plenty big (same as most indoors) for the 1/10 SC stuff... we are currently running between 5ft and 8ft wide on our outdoor but going mostly 8ft this season...
#6
I agree the 1/8 scale is a little too much for this size track... but you go to war with the army you have, not the one you want right...
For the more experienced track builders... My dirt is fairly sandy, not much clay at all. After I cut the lanes with the skid steer (2-3 inches deep) should I add a sand and gravel base for drainage and top with the dirt I removed? I am on a steady grade of 1/4 to 1/2 in drop per foot so I thought as long as I put a little crown in the up and down hill lanes and cut some drainage lines in the crossing lanes I should not hold water.
Also for the jumps, I was planning on making a form and backfilling it. At least for the tabletop/crossover ramp tunnel and the banked berms (so I don't damage my fence). Everything else just made by wetting/stacking/tamping soil right? or is there a need to use gravel mix to add structure and strength to the double/triple section or smaller features?
Wetting/stacking/tamping seems almost too easy, like I'm taking a shortcut.
For the more experienced track builders... My dirt is fairly sandy, not much clay at all. After I cut the lanes with the skid steer (2-3 inches deep) should I add a sand and gravel base for drainage and top with the dirt I removed? I am on a steady grade of 1/4 to 1/2 in drop per foot so I thought as long as I put a little crown in the up and down hill lanes and cut some drainage lines in the crossing lanes I should not hold water.
Also for the jumps, I was planning on making a form and backfilling it. At least for the tabletop/crossover ramp tunnel and the banked berms (so I don't damage my fence). Everything else just made by wetting/stacking/tamping soil right? or is there a need to use gravel mix to add structure and strength to the double/triple section or smaller features?
Wetting/stacking/tamping seems almost too easy, like I'm taking a shortcut.
#7
I agree the 1/8 scale is a little too much for this size track... but you go to war with the army you have, not the one you want right...
For the more experienced track builders... My dirt is fairly sandy, not much clay at all. After I cut the lanes with the skid steer (2-3 inches deep) should I add a sand and gravel base for drainage and top with the dirt I removed? I am on a steady grade of 1/4 to 1/2 in drop per foot so I thought as long as I put a little crown in the up and down hill lanes and cut some drainage lines in the crossing lanes I should not hold water.
Also for the jumps, I was planning on making a form and backfilling it. At least for the tabletop/crossover ramp tunnel and the banked berms (so I don't damage my fence). Everything else just made by wetting/stacking/tamping soil right? or is there a need to use gravel mix to add structure and strength to the double/triple section or smaller features?
Wetting/stacking/tamping seems almost too easy, like I'm taking a shortcut.
For the more experienced track builders... My dirt is fairly sandy, not much clay at all. After I cut the lanes with the skid steer (2-3 inches deep) should I add a sand and gravel base for drainage and top with the dirt I removed? I am on a steady grade of 1/4 to 1/2 in drop per foot so I thought as long as I put a little crown in the up and down hill lanes and cut some drainage lines in the crossing lanes I should not hold water.
Also for the jumps, I was planning on making a form and backfilling it. At least for the tabletop/crossover ramp tunnel and the banked berms (so I don't damage my fence). Everything else just made by wetting/stacking/tamping soil right? or is there a need to use gravel mix to add structure and strength to the double/triple section or smaller features?
Wetting/stacking/tamping seems almost too easy, like I'm taking a shortcut.
#8
Tech Addict
iTrader: (39)
Absolutely +1 on that... the gravel will find its way to the surface no matter how well you tamp...
for starters you *can* certainly cut and flip the topsoil... and tamp it... its going to be soft for a while but should harden up with continuous wetting and tamping... but really the only "good" way to get it broke in well is to spend the money you wanted to for stone on clay... I would also make sure (learned this one the hard way) that you dont have any areas that can retain even the smallest amount of water... if it can... it will...
for starters you *can* certainly cut and flip the topsoil... and tamp it... its going to be soft for a while but should harden up with continuous wetting and tamping... but really the only "good" way to get it broke in well is to spend the money you wanted to for stone on clay... I would also make sure (learned this one the hard way) that you dont have any areas that can retain even the smallest amount of water... if it can... it will...
#10
I would stay away from gravel. Running in gravel can be very tough on your outdrives and bones. If you can't find a cheap source of clay I would just water the track regularly to keep the dust down. Which is important because I used to race on a mostly sand track and it wasn't always watered and we tended to go through motors quite frequently.
I am absolutely glad I asked first (this time) because I was about to order a few tons of 1 in crushed... I figured that was a must for drainage and didn't realize the problems it can cause.
I am going to lower the grade and remove the substantial crown from my front yard this weekend...that is the actual reason for getting the skid steer, and will have that soil and some other to use on the track. I am also having a sprinkler system installed this weekend (highway robbery) and can get the heads the way I want them for the track area. Keeping it moist should not be a problem, and I guess drainage issues will make themselves known eventually so I will just fight them as they come up.
With any luck I should have the area drawn up tonight, marked off by Thursday, Rough cut by Saturday with the skid steer, and have the dirt moved to the general area it needs to be for shaping and tamping starting Sunday. If I get rained out I will just move the whole project to the next weekend. After that I will invest in PVC and flexible drainage pipe and install the track barriers...build a few forms for areas that need support...build a driver's stand... final shaping on corners and ramps... tamping and rolling... and eventually (if I'm good) will get to break it in and then surely will have to make adjustments and little tweaks.
Seems like a lot of work for a little fun, but it will be worth it. Pics to come
#11
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
I've finally convinced my wife that there is no better use for the back side/corner of our backyard than a home RC track... Too much shade for grass to grow, out of sight from the windows so she doesn't have to look at it.
The area is 18 ft wide at one end and 45 ft wide at the other, and about 100 ft long. It has 8 trees, but they are old pin oaks and are either on the outside edge of the area or clustered in a wide area, all easy to plan around. There is a pretty good elevation change, probably 2 feet, over the long run of the area, and it is bordered by fence or house on all but 30 feet of the length on one side.
I want to be able to run my 1/8 e buggy, but the primary focus will be for 1/10 size obstacles and jumps. I want a mostly technical, tight track with a couple of jumps...but small, flowing jumps are the goal. I don't want to make it a parts eating or stress inducing super cross inspired layout. One of the local tracks here has a 5 small jump section that can be run as double/triple if ran right...or 5x singles if you come in wrong... It keeps the speeds down and encourages throttle control, so I will be stealing that idea for sure...but I am at a loss on the other jump or large obstacle.
I was planning on 6 foot width for lanes and a high bermed, steep banked turn at the end of the 100 ft downhill straight, a bumpy washboard type section leading into the technical curvy sections leading back uphill past the drivers stand ending with the double/triple obstacle, then a less banked lower bermed pair of turns at the narrow 20ft wide top section leading to the downhill straight/jump section. Sounds basic enough to build but hopefully I can mix in obstacles and allow course changes easily enough to keep it fun and interesting for my son and I as well as our guests.
Are 6 foot lanes wide enough? And what do think the signature big jump/feature on the back straight should be??? Should I try to add a crossover feature? Any ideas out there? I'm definitely open...
The area is 18 ft wide at one end and 45 ft wide at the other, and about 100 ft long. It has 8 trees, but they are old pin oaks and are either on the outside edge of the area or clustered in a wide area, all easy to plan around. There is a pretty good elevation change, probably 2 feet, over the long run of the area, and it is bordered by fence or house on all but 30 feet of the length on one side.
I want to be able to run my 1/8 e buggy, but the primary focus will be for 1/10 size obstacles and jumps. I want a mostly technical, tight track with a couple of jumps...but small, flowing jumps are the goal. I don't want to make it a parts eating or stress inducing super cross inspired layout. One of the local tracks here has a 5 small jump section that can be run as double/triple if ran right...or 5x singles if you come in wrong... It keeps the speeds down and encourages throttle control, so I will be stealing that idea for sure...but I am at a loss on the other jump or large obstacle.
I was planning on 6 foot width for lanes and a high bermed, steep banked turn at the end of the 100 ft downhill straight, a bumpy washboard type section leading into the technical curvy sections leading back uphill past the drivers stand ending with the double/triple obstacle, then a less banked lower bermed pair of turns at the narrow 20ft wide top section leading to the downhill straight/jump section. Sounds basic enough to build but hopefully I can mix in obstacles and allow course changes easily enough to keep it fun and interesting for my son and I as well as our guests.
Are 6 foot lanes wide enough? And what do think the signature big jump/feature on the back straight should be??? Should I try to add a crossover feature? Any ideas out there? I'm definitely open...
My .02
#12
Got a couple of hours of seat time in the rental Bobcat... More fun than work, but did manage to get the back yard graded and leveled, and the main layout of the track cut in.
Piled up the extra dirt for construction tomorrow, and learned some valuable lessons...
1) no matter how hard you drive a multi thousand pound Bobcat into a 8 inch tree stump...you will still end up using a saw and axe to remove the stump.
2) even though you have a 60 inch wide gate, and a 58 inch wide Bobcat...you still have to take a section of fence out to get it in the yard because it won't fit through the gate.
3) scale drawings, PowerPoint presentations, spray painted track layout on the ground, and a week of planning DO NOT mean that your wife has any idea where the track will go... 30 min of circling the area with the Bobcat WILL get the question "is the track going there??!!" yelled at you.
4) and finally... It doesn't matter if you are 40 like me, a Bobcat is a fountain of youth and you start acting like a 12 year old after 5 minutes.
I took a couple of basic pics, but am too tired to post them tonight. I will have it raked and marked out in the morning and will take a couple better pics before I cut the track and start piling up mounds for jumps and berms. I hope to get the heavy work done early enough to start building jumps and berms, but having a flat track cut and graded is the main focus for tomorrow.
Piled up the extra dirt for construction tomorrow, and learned some valuable lessons...
1) no matter how hard you drive a multi thousand pound Bobcat into a 8 inch tree stump...you will still end up using a saw and axe to remove the stump.
2) even though you have a 60 inch wide gate, and a 58 inch wide Bobcat...you still have to take a section of fence out to get it in the yard because it won't fit through the gate.
3) scale drawings, PowerPoint presentations, spray painted track layout on the ground, and a week of planning DO NOT mean that your wife has any idea where the track will go... 30 min of circling the area with the Bobcat WILL get the question "is the track going there??!!" yelled at you.
4) and finally... It doesn't matter if you are 40 like me, a Bobcat is a fountain of youth and you start acting like a 12 year old after 5 minutes.
I took a couple of basic pics, but am too tired to post them tonight. I will have it raked and marked out in the morning and will take a couple better pics before I cut the track and start piling up mounds for jumps and berms. I hope to get the heavy work done early enough to start building jumps and berms, but having a flat track cut and graded is the main focus for tomorrow.
#13
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
Need some help
I started building my track today as well. I have an area of 70' x 140' and got about half of the track cut in and some of the jumps built.
I am struggling with getting the dirt packed and smooth like I would want on the flat secions.
Any help or suggestions for this process.
I have limited access to a skid steer as well as Small Roler, Garden Tractor, water and basic yard tools..
What will I need to do to keep the flat parts of the track packed and smooth. I can only get it so good with the skid.
Any suggestions would be greatly appricated.
Thanks
I am struggling with getting the dirt packed and smooth like I would want on the flat secions.
Any help or suggestions for this process.
I have limited access to a skid steer as well as Small Roler, Garden Tractor, water and basic yard tools..
What will I need to do to keep the flat parts of the track packed and smooth. I can only get it so good with the skid.
Any suggestions would be greatly appricated.
Thanks
#14
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Another idea for a feature on the track is a step on step off. Our track has a cross over jump that you jump to a table then double off. Or you can triple on with a single, If you have enough motor and get lined up you can quad the whole thing.
+ YouTube Video | |
#15
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
I
I am struggling with getting the dirt packed and smooth like I would want on the flat secions.
Any help or suggestions for this process.
I have limited access to a skid steer as well as Small Roler, Garden Tractor, water and basic yard tools..
What will I need to do to keep the flat parts of the track packed and smooth. I can only get it so good with the skid.
I am struggling with getting the dirt packed and smooth like I would want on the flat secions.
Any help or suggestions for this process.
I have limited access to a skid steer as well as Small Roler, Garden Tractor, water and basic yard tools..
What will I need to do to keep the flat parts of the track packed and smooth. I can only get it so good with the skid.
Another thing, have you tried back bladeing with the skid steer?