Need help starting my HPI Savage
08-29-2004, 06:14 PM
#1
Need help starting my HPI Savage
Hey there i'm completely new to the Nitro/gas powered Rc world. I purchased a HPI savage with a .26 picco engine and a pullstart. I can't get this thing to run properly. I really need some complete step by step instructions if that is not too much to ask for.
1. It took me about 30 tries to first start the engine. And i had to mess with the high adjustment screw.
2. Once I finally got it started it sounded like it was reving faster and faster until i cut off the fuel, because truck started moving forward.
3. Now my igniter ran out and i had to recharge it overnight.
4. New day i tried to get it started again... 30 tries... finally! it started up and i got happy... once again there was no smoke. But only 20 seconds later the engine died out on me, and it got flooded.
I've read up and you're supposed to tilt the truck at a 90 degree angle and the fuel is supposed to come out once you pull the pullstart... didnt happen to me. It is still hard to pull the pullstart. Finally after 10 tries i get it to clear up... "seller of the truck stated that it starts after the first pull.".. after 20+pulls i finally gave up... i don't want to go to the hobby shop since they want $50 an HOUR min of 1 hour to diagnose the prob, i really hope you guys can help.
I also read up that the high end screw is supposed to be tightened all the way in and the 4 turns out for the factory setting... i did that now... What is the setting for the low end??? what about the idle setting... since i think its way to high.
I don't know why it takes me this many tries to start it... maybe i'm going something wrong... here is what i do ...
1. Turn receiver on
2. put gas all the way up to the carb with no bubbles.
3. Put the glow plug ingnitor on
4. Pull the starter fast and short (4 inches)
In case you guys are wondering i"m using 20% trinity monster fuel.... MC8 glow plug, that i tested and it works (glows).
Thanks a lot for the help .... i'm really desperate... i spent $400 on this truck and i know it works... but i can't get it going.
1. It took me about 30 tries to first start the engine. And i had to mess with the high adjustment screw.
2. Once I finally got it started it sounded like it was reving faster and faster until i cut off the fuel, because truck started moving forward.
3. Now my igniter ran out and i had to recharge it overnight.
4. New day i tried to get it started again... 30 tries... finally! it started up and i got happy... once again there was no smoke. But only 20 seconds later the engine died out on me, and it got flooded.
I've read up and you're supposed to tilt the truck at a 90 degree angle and the fuel is supposed to come out once you pull the pullstart... didnt happen to me. It is still hard to pull the pullstart. Finally after 10 tries i get it to clear up... "seller of the truck stated that it starts after the first pull.".. after 20+pulls i finally gave up... i don't want to go to the hobby shop since they want $50 an HOUR min of 1 hour to diagnose the prob, i really hope you guys can help.
I also read up that the high end screw is supposed to be tightened all the way in and the 4 turns out for the factory setting... i did that now... What is the setting for the low end??? what about the idle setting... since i think its way to high.
I don't know why it takes me this many tries to start it... maybe i'm going something wrong... here is what i do ...
1. Turn receiver on
2. put gas all the way up to the carb with no bubbles.
3. Put the glow plug ingnitor on
4. Pull the starter fast and short (4 inches)
In case you guys are wondering i"m using 20% trinity monster fuel.... MC8 glow plug, that i tested and it works (glows).
Thanks a lot for the help .... i'm really desperate... i spent $400 on this truck and i know it works... but i can't get it going.
08-31-2004, 09:59 AM
#2
try 30% nitro fuel, lights faster. and check the idle screw, make sure that it is not all the way closed when you let of the throttle(1-2mm gap when you let of throttle). and make sure that the low end needle is not too rich, start at 1-2 turns out on the low speed, try 1 1/2 first. and the high speed needle, try 5-6 turns out. and when you pull on the pull starter, pull with one hand and plug the pipe outlet with your finger, this primes the engine. make sure you can see fuel going into the engine. and when you do get it started, hold it above the ground for about a minute and slowly rev the engine up to half throttle to get it warmed up. then set it on the ground and run it from there.
08-31-2004, 12:19 PM
#3
Thanks for the help... i wasn't pulling the starter correctly lol... i got it all worked out.. this thing is a beast... wheelies at any speed !!!1
08-31-2004, 08:06 PM
#5
I wasn't pulling it fast enough... kind of hard to explain ...
08-31-2004, 10:17 PM
#7
When you first start the truck.. only put half a tank of fuel in it... I foud my truck would flood with a full tank...
Just me .02 worth... Good luck...
Just me .02 worth... Good luck...
09-01-2004, 09:15 AM
#9
not sure if it does.... but i've heard some horror stories about roto start as well.
09-02-2004, 12:11 AM
#11
.26 PIcco... the pull started ripped today 
man this sux.
man this sux.
09-02-2004, 01:21 AM
#12
yeah max gotta be gentle with the pull starter. if you get nitro on it youre done, the fuel eats the cord. one of these days ill get a starter box *sigh*
09-02-2004, 07:11 AM
#13
Tech Adept
Just remember, its not a lawn mower, you cant rip the shit outa that cord.
Just lots of short rapid tugs using your elbow, NOT your shoulder.
Just lots of short rapid tugs using your elbow, NOT your shoulder.
09-06-2004, 04:09 AM
#15
A mate of mine runs a werks racing version of a Picco. He has it working with a Roto start, the only thing is - you have to have a spacer for the one way bearing.
The arguments for and against roto start versus pullstarts will go on forever.
It's my observation that rotostarts are more convenient - while they work that is (!!) - and assuming that they are correctly used. In almost all cases, trucks with electric starting systems are up and running before trucks fitted with pullstarts. If you're using the system all day, you either require more than 1 rotostart battery OR you need a field charger as backup.
Pullstarts definitely require a knack and can be quite awkward on new, tight, engines. But they don't require any batteries and allow the user to travel light - glow heater only. A big plus point for bashers who like to travel off the beaten track
The important thing to remember with either method: don't allow your engine to become flooded. If you do, with the roto you'll break one-ways and with the pullstart you'll break the cord/string.
As I've said eleswhere: '..If you're new to glow engines and struggle starting your engine with a rotostart, you're hardly likely to fair any better with a pullstart..' - and that's the truth.
So choose what suit's your requirements - not someone else's.
One more thing - once you have a roto start module fitted to your engine, there's nothing stopping you from using a cordless drill/driver to start your engine. The advantage here is that your drill/driver has a clutch, so you can control how much torque is being transmitted through your one-way.
Hope this helps!
The arguments for and against roto start versus pullstarts will go on forever.
It's my observation that rotostarts are more convenient - while they work that is (!!) - and assuming that they are correctly used. In almost all cases, trucks with electric starting systems are up and running before trucks fitted with pullstarts. If you're using the system all day, you either require more than 1 rotostart battery OR you need a field charger as backup.
Pullstarts definitely require a knack and can be quite awkward on new, tight, engines. But they don't require any batteries and allow the user to travel light - glow heater only. A big plus point for bashers who like to travel off the beaten track
The important thing to remember with either method: don't allow your engine to become flooded. If you do, with the roto you'll break one-ways and with the pullstart you'll break the cord/string.
As I've said eleswhere: '..If you're new to glow engines and struggle starting your engine with a rotostart, you're hardly likely to fair any better with a pullstart..' - and that's the truth.
So choose what suit's your requirements - not someone else's.
One more thing - once you have a roto start module fitted to your engine, there's nothing stopping you from using a cordless drill/driver to start your engine. The advantage here is that your drill/driver has a clutch, so you can control how much torque is being transmitted through your one-way.
Hope this helps!