A mate of mine runs a werks racing version of a Picco. He has it working with a Roto start, the only thing is - you have to have a spacer for the one way bearing.
The arguments for and against roto start versus pullstarts will go on forever.
It's my observation that rotostarts are more convenient - while they work that is (!!) - and assuming that they are correctly used. In almost all cases, trucks with electric starting systems are up and running before trucks fitted with pullstarts. If you're using the system all day, you either require more than 1 rotostart battery OR you need a field charger as backup.
Pullstarts definitely require a knack and can be quite awkward on new, tight, engines. But they don't require any batteries and allow the user to travel light - glow heater only. A big plus point for bashers who like to travel off the beaten track
The important thing to remember with either method: don't allow your engine to become flooded. If you do, with the roto you'll break one-ways and with the pullstart you'll break the cord/string.
As I've said eleswhere: '..If you're new to glow engines and struggle starting your engine with a rotostart, you're hardly likely to fair any better with a pullstart..' - and that's the truth.
So choose what suit's your
requirements - not someone else's.
One more thing - once you have a roto start module fitted to your engine, there's nothing stopping you from using a cordless drill/driver to start your engine. The advantage here is that your drill/driver has a clutch, so you can control how much torque is being transmitted through your one-way.
Hope this helps!